I am always amazed at the difference in opinion when it comes wearing coloured calf skins with blue,grey and black suits.
As a shoemaker and a designer(when making for an individual customer) I have to give advise ocasionally on which colours i think are suitable for ocasion's, buisness etc.. and which colour suit/trouser will go with the chosen calf, this can be quite a responsibility, For example if the wrong colour of leather is chosen to suit the customers wardrobe he may never feel comfortable wearing the shoes.
Also I have heard quite a few times over the years of customers who have said "love the shoes but I simply cannot wear them as I do not feel comfortable wearing the colour i chose" Many customers admire the colours of the samples but when it comes to wearing them the don't feel so sure, and more than once i have urged a customer to question his decision so that he does not make this mistake.
My question is:-
Of the following colours which colour trouser/suit even jeans would you comfortably wear.
Black calf
Chestnut calf
London tan
Burgundy calf
Dark brown calf (dark oak)
Mid brown calf(bracken or burn't pine)
Navy calf
Redwood calf (Bauxite)
Tobacco suede
Dark brown suede
Navy suede
And don't forget the grained (printed calf) leathers.
KInd regards
Tony
london Tan calf? Grey pants?
The only ones I would not wear are:
Burgundy calf (I much prefer cordovan in this color)
Navy calf (Too flashy and non-traditional for me)
Redwood calf (Not sure what this is but it sounds supect)
Navy suede (same reson I wouldn't wear navy calf)
I have no problem with grained calf, unless that are printed to look like something they are not. I.e., I would not wear calf with a croc pattern; if I wanted croc, that's what I would order. I do think that, on the whole, these shoes look better with beefier cloth, however.
Personally, I love tan shoes (wearing a pair of EG London tan monks right now, as a matter of fact), but I only wear them in spring/summer/early fall, and only with lighter colored clothes.
Burgundy calf (I much prefer cordovan in this color)
Navy calf (Too flashy and non-traditional for me)
Redwood calf (Not sure what this is but it sounds supect)
Navy suede (same reson I wouldn't wear navy calf)
I have no problem with grained calf, unless that are printed to look like something they are not. I.e., I would not wear calf with a croc pattern; if I wanted croc, that's what I would order. I do think that, on the whole, these shoes look better with beefier cloth, however.
Personally, I love tan shoes (wearing a pair of EG London tan monks right now, as a matter of fact), but I only wear them in spring/summer/early fall, and only with lighter colored clothes.
My tastes run to the boring, which might be helpful to the less bold of your clients. Top o' the head response--
Black calf: any business suit in grey or blue. Not tan or (most likely not) olive. Probably not odd trousers-- feels too dressy.
Chestnut calf: tan odd trousers or suit. Tweed. Grey flannel odd trousers if not too dark.
London tan: khaki/tan, lighter tweed. I would think that the right tan (really light but not as pallid as your "birch" would work with white, cream, lemon-yellow odd summer trousers.
Burgundy calf: there are "trad" pockets in this country that would wear with navy blue suits. Personally, I would reserve for odd trousers, or maybe summer suits in light grey, tan, or (if not really formal) dark blue linen.
Dark brown calf (dark oak): I'm getting a pair of these that I expect will be OK with mid-grey suits (or lighter grey) during the day, as well as the usual suspects (grey flannel trousers, tan suits). Basically interchangeable with burgundy.
Mid brown calf(bracken or burn't pine): you are making a pair of these for me--- intended use is as above, but a shade less formal. Flannel check suits, perhaps, but not navy or dark grey.
Navy calf: Good question. You don't see a lot of those around here.
Redwood calf (Bauxite) ??
Tobacco suede: tweeds, flannel trousers, tan twills. If seeing my own lawyer, perhaps mid-grey chalk stripe flannel suit. If seeing a client's lawyer, never.
Dark brown suede: as above, but more likely to carry into evening. I'd consider these for use when going to concerts on my own (Boston is notoriously not-dressy at such times), but not necessarily if I'm attending with others.
Navy suede: These come with the inevitable Elvis factor. Black suede, however, is a comfortable way to dress down some nice grey flannels with a blazer or less-countrified tweed jacket. Useful for quiet weekend dinners out or trips to less formal concerts.
And don't forget the grained (printed calf) leathers:
Useful in the context of my daily wear, as we have a business casual office. Planning to get a selection built up that will go with khakis (cotton or wool twill), flannels, or various linen odd trousers. Tweed trousers in the really cold weather. I wouldn't use with smooth grey twills or indeed most city suits. Exceptions might be the Cleverley reindeer-- which I've still never worn with a suit in town-- or some of the equivalents. I'm going to keep to mid and dark browns, or burgundy. I got one tan pair of Scotch grain derbys some years back that shows scuffs frightfully, defeating the entire purpose.
Re grains, I've thought that there might be some middle ground for trips to midwestern or more rural clients, interviews at schools, and so on. Like pebble finish or lightly-grained in black--- to go with (e.g.), a grey whipcord suit that has a town cut. Haven't worked out the details of that yet. But unless it were raining cats and dogs or snowing, I probably wouldn't try a pair like this with a nicer suit in town.
Black calf: any business suit in grey or blue. Not tan or (most likely not) olive. Probably not odd trousers-- feels too dressy.
Chestnut calf: tan odd trousers or suit. Tweed. Grey flannel odd trousers if not too dark.
London tan: khaki/tan, lighter tweed. I would think that the right tan (really light but not as pallid as your "birch" would work with white, cream, lemon-yellow odd summer trousers.
Burgundy calf: there are "trad" pockets in this country that would wear with navy blue suits. Personally, I would reserve for odd trousers, or maybe summer suits in light grey, tan, or (if not really formal) dark blue linen.
Dark brown calf (dark oak): I'm getting a pair of these that I expect will be OK with mid-grey suits (or lighter grey) during the day, as well as the usual suspects (grey flannel trousers, tan suits). Basically interchangeable with burgundy.
Mid brown calf(bracken or burn't pine): you are making a pair of these for me--- intended use is as above, but a shade less formal. Flannel check suits, perhaps, but not navy or dark grey.
Navy calf: Good question. You don't see a lot of those around here.
Redwood calf (Bauxite) ??
Tobacco suede: tweeds, flannel trousers, tan twills. If seeing my own lawyer, perhaps mid-grey chalk stripe flannel suit. If seeing a client's lawyer, never.
Dark brown suede: as above, but more likely to carry into evening. I'd consider these for use when going to concerts on my own (Boston is notoriously not-dressy at such times), but not necessarily if I'm attending with others.
Navy suede: These come with the inevitable Elvis factor. Black suede, however, is a comfortable way to dress down some nice grey flannels with a blazer or less-countrified tweed jacket. Useful for quiet weekend dinners out or trips to less formal concerts.
And don't forget the grained (printed calf) leathers:
Useful in the context of my daily wear, as we have a business casual office. Planning to get a selection built up that will go with khakis (cotton or wool twill), flannels, or various linen odd trousers. Tweed trousers in the really cold weather. I wouldn't use with smooth grey twills or indeed most city suits. Exceptions might be the Cleverley reindeer-- which I've still never worn with a suit in town-- or some of the equivalents. I'm going to keep to mid and dark browns, or burgundy. I got one tan pair of Scotch grain derbys some years back that shows scuffs frightfully, defeating the entire purpose.
Re grains, I've thought that there might be some middle ground for trips to midwestern or more rural clients, interviews at schools, and so on. Like pebble finish or lightly-grained in black--- to go with (e.g.), a grey whipcord suit that has a town cut. Haven't worked out the details of that yet. But unless it were raining cats and dogs or snowing, I probably wouldn't try a pair like this with a nicer suit in town.
And don't forget the grained (printed calf) leathers.
Another opinion from another conservative dresser:
Of the leathers you listed, Tony, black calf is fine, of course, as are chestnut and dark brown. Mid-brown is possible, and redwood (if not too bright or too pale). I doubt I'd wear navy calfskin, and the thought of a polished tan calfskin is definitely offputting (if not downright nauseating; obviously, others feel differently). As Manton, I prefer cordovan to burgundy calfskin. I might like navy (or, better, dark-blue) calfskin.
Each of the sueded leathers you listed could hold some appeal. Other suedes -- an obscure olive brown, for example -- might also, as I'd wear suedes with a wider palette from my wardrobe.
I much dislike most grained leathers, as I find them a form of artifice. I do like pebble-grained and a few others.
Another opinion from another conservative dresser:
Of the leathers you listed, Tony, black calf is fine, of course, as are chestnut and dark brown. Mid-brown is possible, and redwood (if not too bright or too pale). I doubt I'd wear navy calfskin, and the thought of a polished tan calfskin is definitely offputting (if not downright nauseating; obviously, others feel differently). As Manton, I prefer cordovan to burgundy calfskin. I might like navy (or, better, dark-blue) calfskin.
Each of the sueded leathers you listed could hold some appeal. Other suedes -- an obscure olive brown, for example -- might also, as I'd wear suedes with a wider palette from my wardrobe.
I much dislike most grained leathers, as I find them a form of artifice. I do like pebble-grained and a few others.
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bengal-stripe
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Potentially I might wear shoes in all the colours Tony has listed. But that is very much a case of horses for courses; I might find a particular colour wonderful in one style and awful in another. I think it is also a matter of finish and patina. The lighter or the more unusual a colour is, the more depth it needs. Even a rather traditional colour like London tan looks awful on spray-died corrected grain leather.
In calfskin there are two colours that I really despise: one is grey (hard to believe, but they were rather fashionable some 20 or 25 years ago). The other one is that putty coloured “Michael Jackson” (which EG calls “birch”).
Spectators, like EG’s “Malvern III” look wonderful in pictures but I cannot see them on my feet. Come to think of it, I wouldn’t wear anything that combines different colours or different textures, not even those by Marc Guyot:
Rolf
In calfskin there are two colours that I really despise: one is grey (hard to believe, but they were rather fashionable some 20 or 25 years ago). The other one is that putty coloured “Michael Jackson” (which EG calls “birch”).
Spectators, like EG’s “Malvern III” look wonderful in pictures but I cannot see them on my feet. Come to think of it, I wouldn’t wear anything that combines different colours or different textures, not even those by Marc Guyot:
Rolf
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BenedictSpinola
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Tony,
Interesting question. I recall you mentioning at the Guinea that you would balk at wearing even dark oak shoes with a navy suit. Here are my preferences-
Black -
These would go with a midnight blue plain, pinstripe or grey suit. Never with denim. Never with camel/taupe.
Dark oak -
I'd wear these with a navy suit or a charcoal/dark grey suit. At a pinch I'd also wear them with camel moleskins and darker tweed suits.
Burgundy calf -
I much prefer this to cordovan, which I'm not used to and find difficult to admire (it looks like vulcanised rubber - very Alan Partridge). I would wear burgundy calf with navy suits (if it was good enough for my grandfather, it's good enough for me!), tweed suits, moleskins etc.
Mid brown & Dark Tan -
I'd wear this with tweed, moleskins, denim.
Not keen on blue shoes of any description & grained leather.
Interesting question. I recall you mentioning at the Guinea that you would balk at wearing even dark oak shoes with a navy suit. Here are my preferences-
Black -
These would go with a midnight blue plain, pinstripe or grey suit. Never with denim. Never with camel/taupe.
Dark oak -
I'd wear these with a navy suit or a charcoal/dark grey suit. At a pinch I'd also wear them with camel moleskins and darker tweed suits.
Burgundy calf -
I much prefer this to cordovan, which I'm not used to and find difficult to admire (it looks like vulcanised rubber - very Alan Partridge). I would wear burgundy calf with navy suits (if it was good enough for my grandfather, it's good enough for me!), tweed suits, moleskins etc.
Mid brown & Dark Tan -
I'd wear this with tweed, moleskins, denim.
Not keen on blue shoes of any description & grained leather.
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Guest
Well, I don't see much of the problem.
I mean, a big part it's not made by the color itself, but the whole style of the shoe; if you put on a double soled norwegian, I wouldn't like it with a dark grey three-piece suit, even if the shoe is black.
I have no problem with brown shoes and grey/blue suits. In fact, aesthetically speaking, a navy suit stays better with a burgundy shoe than with a black one. More: during the morning/afternoon I would prefer a brown or burgundy shoes under that suit, and a black one in the evening.
Tobacco suede: I have it and use it with tweed sportcoat and grey flannel trousers, also with navy suits, also with lighter summer suits.
Of course I don't like navy shoes.
Giona.
I mean, a big part it's not made by the color itself, but the whole style of the shoe; if you put on a double soled norwegian, I wouldn't like it with a dark grey three-piece suit, even if the shoe is black.
I have no problem with brown shoes and grey/blue suits. In fact, aesthetically speaking, a navy suit stays better with a burgundy shoe than with a black one. More: during the morning/afternoon I would prefer a brown or burgundy shoes under that suit, and a black one in the evening.
Tobacco suede: I have it and use it with tweed sportcoat and grey flannel trousers, also with navy suits, also with lighter summer suits.
Of course I don't like navy shoes.
Giona.
Hi Guys
Thanks for all your replys, It just goes to show that THE rules of colour matching are very individual, and like Bengal-stripe says" Horses for courses" each leather suits each style in a different way.
I think 8 out of 10 englishmen still order black shoes for everything because they really struggle to feel comfortable with brown shoes unless they are worn with jeans.
Even i can never wear any colour of brown shoe with my navy suit but i enjoy wearing my dark oak/ bracken and chestnut shoes with my light and dark grey suits.
I do i feel comfortable wearing suede or grained shoes but i can still admire and like them
Tony
Thanks for all your replys, It just goes to show that THE rules of colour matching are very individual, and like Bengal-stripe says" Horses for courses" each leather suits each style in a different way.
I think 8 out of 10 englishmen still order black shoes for everything because they really struggle to feel comfortable with brown shoes unless they are worn with jeans.
Even i can never wear any colour of brown shoe with my navy suit but i enjoy wearing my dark oak/ bracken and chestnut shoes with my light and dark grey suits.
I do i feel comfortable wearing suede or grained shoes but i can still admire and like them
Tony
Sorry the last paragragh was supposed to say ' I do not feel comfortable wearing Grained or suede shoes etc........
Tony
Tony
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Guest
I understand, Tony.
I live in Milan, and if I go in the "city" (Piazza Affari, our financial district) there's none in a sportcoat, everyone is in a grey or navy suit AND black shoes.
I think black shoes is easier, you can always put on your dark suit and put black shoes and you are always right. Still, I do not find it REALLY right to dress like that in the morning for example. In the morning it should be better a lighter colored suit, and the shoe will follow ...
Giona.
I live in Milan, and if I go in the "city" (Piazza Affari, our financial district) there's none in a sportcoat, everyone is in a grey or navy suit AND black shoes.
I think black shoes is easier, you can always put on your dark suit and put black shoes and you are always right. Still, I do not find it REALLY right to dress like that in the morning for example. In the morning it should be better a lighter colored suit, and the shoe will follow ...
Giona.
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Bic Pentameter
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"Horses for courses...."
When I first window shopped for Edward Green shoes, a clerk put a pair of shoes in dark oak and a pair in burnt pine beneath a navy suit. I can only say that the dark oak looked better to my eye. I decided that my first pair would be dark oak. I would comfortably wear it with any color of trouser or jean in my wardrobe.
Conceptually, I don't have trouble with brown shoes with a navy suit, but I do find that if I choose a purple or red shirt or tie to go with that suit (as happened yesterday, when I chose a lavender shirt), I feel more comfortable in black shoes.
I love London tan, but that is largely *not* because of the color as it is out of the box. It is because of the color that shoe can become after I have applied burgandy, black and various an sundry other colors of polish. For some reason, light tan shoes always feel like they are MINE and mine alone. Black shoes (and perhaps, to some degree, dark oak shoes) don't have quite as much of my personality in them.
I have seen swatches of Edward Green's olive, and I am very tempted.
I look best in earth tones, and have several tan, brown, and olive suits. Come to think of it pair of olive colored shoes would go great on my ears! Tony, you may find yourself advising me on this color in a few months!
Bic
When I first window shopped for Edward Green shoes, a clerk put a pair of shoes in dark oak and a pair in burnt pine beneath a navy suit. I can only say that the dark oak looked better to my eye. I decided that my first pair would be dark oak. I would comfortably wear it with any color of trouser or jean in my wardrobe.
Conceptually, I don't have trouble with brown shoes with a navy suit, but I do find that if I choose a purple or red shirt or tie to go with that suit (as happened yesterday, when I chose a lavender shirt), I feel more comfortable in black shoes.
I love London tan, but that is largely *not* because of the color as it is out of the box. It is because of the color that shoe can become after I have applied burgandy, black and various an sundry other colors of polish. For some reason, light tan shoes always feel like they are MINE and mine alone. Black shoes (and perhaps, to some degree, dark oak shoes) don't have quite as much of my personality in them.
I have seen swatches of Edward Green's olive, and I am very tempted.
I look best in earth tones, and have several tan, brown, and olive suits. Come to think of it pair of olive colored shoes would go great on my ears! Tony, you may find yourself advising me on this color in a few months!
Bic
I think this is a matter of individual taste and if it suits a person's outfit and style-its ok for them and perhaps not for others. Some people can wear light colored shoes with dark suits, others can't.
For myself, I don't wear burgandy shoes with navy although I did see Mark Seitleman the other day in a summer off blue with burgandy shoes and I thought that was good.
I tend to wear very dark brown shoes with navy during the day but not at night, I have started to think that dark brown suede with navy blue-except a flannel-is a cliche.
For myself, I don't wear burgandy shoes with navy although I did see Mark Seitleman the other day in a summer off blue with burgandy shoes and I thought that was good.
I tend to wear very dark brown shoes with navy during the day but not at night, I have started to think that dark brown suede with navy blue-except a flannel-is a cliche.
Rather than listing the shoe/suit colour combinations, I would do as Manton and list the ones I would NOT wear:
1) Bauxite, it is too red for me and I believe the chestnut is similar enough in tone whilst being more versatile.
2) Olive. I just can't picture myself in them!
Pretty short list actually!
Burgundy shoes seem to have a bit of a struggle in the town wardrobes of most men, and like Giona, I find a very dark antiqued burgundy a beautiful match for a blue suit. And I also like burgundy for my olive-grey suit.
The grained calf I would (and do) use for more casual/coountry shoes and boots. The willow grain I find is the dressiest of the grains.
As for the exotics, I would wear:
1) Crocodile.... I have a pair in brown J.M Weston's 180 loafer.
2) Sharkskin... I want to get a loafer in that in black.
1) Bauxite, it is too red for me and I believe the chestnut is similar enough in tone whilst being more versatile.
2) Olive. I just can't picture myself in them!
Pretty short list actually!
Burgundy shoes seem to have a bit of a struggle in the town wardrobes of most men, and like Giona, I find a very dark antiqued burgundy a beautiful match for a blue suit. And I also like burgundy for my olive-grey suit.
The grained calf I would (and do) use for more casual/coountry shoes and boots. The willow grain I find is the dressiest of the grains.
As for the exotics, I would wear:
1) Crocodile.... I have a pair in brown J.M Weston's 180 loafer.
2) Sharkskin... I want to get a loafer in that in black.
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Will
As a confirmed shoe freak, I have and wear oxfords in all the listed finishes except for olive and navy. I don't like EG's burgundy but repeated applications of Oxblood help it.
I also wear Norwegians in mahogany country calf and am looking forward to ordering a pair of brown willow grain blind brogues.
I also wear Norwegians in mahogany country calf and am looking forward to ordering a pair of brown willow grain blind brogues.
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