New Bespoke Suit
Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2005 9:45 pm
Hello all,
On the Yahoo forum I wrote about the bespoke suit that I commissioned from a local tailor in Pennsylvania. The suit turned out so well that I decided to commission another. In deciding on a fabric, I considered several factors: 1) I am moving to a warm climate this summer (northern Florida); 2) I tend to get hot easily; 3) I will mostly wear the suit in class (I am a professor) and will be moving around a lot in the suit. Based on the above factors, I decided that a fabric with mohair might be appropriate. I purchased a light, medium blue fabric that is 60% wool, 40% mohair. The fabric is Dormeuil and is about 10oz. Purchased from Singer's in Manhattan. I really like the fabric a lot. Actually, my tailor told me that a couple of his customers saw my suit in progress and liked the fabric so much that they wanted suits in the same fabric.
Anyway, I got the suit back yesterday, and I think my tailor did a very good job. My tailor told me that he really likes working with mohair, and the results certainly support his view. The lapel roll is gorgeous. I love a nice, generous lapel roll, and this suit has one of the best that I have ever seen. If you look under the lapel, you'll see hundreds of stitches sewn by hand (it's easier to see them with the lighter fabric). The shoulders are roped, which I like, and slightly padded, the armholes are high, the front quarters (I think this is the correct term) are open (which I specifically asked for), and the jacket is partially lined. The fit is very good, I think. The tailor does all the work himself, most of it by hand.
I am certainly no expert, but the only aspects of the suit that might not be perfect are the buttons on the sleeves and the button hole on the jacket. Although the sleeve buttons kiss (which I requested), they are farther from the end of the sleeve than is the norm. Also, the button hole on the lapel, although hand made, has a keyhold shape and is not very long, which I understand is not as desirable as a longer, straight button hole. I think these are minor quibbles, though. Do you all agree?
I addition to describing my new suit, I have another purpose for this posting. I would like some advice. As I mentioned earlier, I will soon be moving to Florida. I would love to maintain my association with this tailor, and he with me. He told me that he has my pattern and can just make clothes for me and mail them to me in Florida. Is this wise? I have to say that his pattern for me is very accurate. With my second suit, virtually no changes were made at my fittings. Am I asking for trouble if I commission suits from this tailor without any fittings? Another option, besides the obvious one of looking for a new tailor (which I don't want to do), is that my mother in law lives in the area and I will probably visit at least once a year (Christmas). Should I just plan on doing a fitting during my one visit and not risk ordering a suit without a fitting?
Please feel free to comment on my dilemma. I'm also interested in what others think about fabrics with a mohair content.
Brian
On the Yahoo forum I wrote about the bespoke suit that I commissioned from a local tailor in Pennsylvania. The suit turned out so well that I decided to commission another. In deciding on a fabric, I considered several factors: 1) I am moving to a warm climate this summer (northern Florida); 2) I tend to get hot easily; 3) I will mostly wear the suit in class (I am a professor) and will be moving around a lot in the suit. Based on the above factors, I decided that a fabric with mohair might be appropriate. I purchased a light, medium blue fabric that is 60% wool, 40% mohair. The fabric is Dormeuil and is about 10oz. Purchased from Singer's in Manhattan. I really like the fabric a lot. Actually, my tailor told me that a couple of his customers saw my suit in progress and liked the fabric so much that they wanted suits in the same fabric.
Anyway, I got the suit back yesterday, and I think my tailor did a very good job. My tailor told me that he really likes working with mohair, and the results certainly support his view. The lapel roll is gorgeous. I love a nice, generous lapel roll, and this suit has one of the best that I have ever seen. If you look under the lapel, you'll see hundreds of stitches sewn by hand (it's easier to see them with the lighter fabric). The shoulders are roped, which I like, and slightly padded, the armholes are high, the front quarters (I think this is the correct term) are open (which I specifically asked for), and the jacket is partially lined. The fit is very good, I think. The tailor does all the work himself, most of it by hand.
I am certainly no expert, but the only aspects of the suit that might not be perfect are the buttons on the sleeves and the button hole on the jacket. Although the sleeve buttons kiss (which I requested), they are farther from the end of the sleeve than is the norm. Also, the button hole on the lapel, although hand made, has a keyhold shape and is not very long, which I understand is not as desirable as a longer, straight button hole. I think these are minor quibbles, though. Do you all agree?
I addition to describing my new suit, I have another purpose for this posting. I would like some advice. As I mentioned earlier, I will soon be moving to Florida. I would love to maintain my association with this tailor, and he with me. He told me that he has my pattern and can just make clothes for me and mail them to me in Florida. Is this wise? I have to say that his pattern for me is very accurate. With my second suit, virtually no changes were made at my fittings. Am I asking for trouble if I commission suits from this tailor without any fittings? Another option, besides the obvious one of looking for a new tailor (which I don't want to do), is that my mother in law lives in the area and I will probably visit at least once a year (Christmas). Should I just plan on doing a fitting during my one visit and not risk ordering a suit without a fitting?
Please feel free to comment on my dilemma. I'm also interested in what others think about fabrics with a mohair content.
Brian
