The London Lounge

Here's a problem that I have only just begun to think about-- tie width. Specifically, do y'all consciously acquire different width ties for different styles of jacket, or different particular jackets?

One example to illustrate would be the Carlo Franco seven-folds--- beautifully done if you like his choices of fabric. To my taste, however, the ties are a little wide at the bottom, or at least, they widen out more than I'd like. No big deal with double-breasted coats, however. Nobody ever sees the bottom, and a flourish of extravagant brocade near the collar is not out of place when in such small quantities.

The converse with a lot of more conventionally-cut ties. Elegant and slimming with SB, but a little flimsy-looking when given only 4 inches to shine above a DB crossover.

Turnbull makes a version of their regular cut with a wider knot and more horizontal sides of the bottle, which in theory bulks up the top but keeps the lower part of the blade looking slim. Haven't completely optimized that cut, but it has promise to work in all applications.

This question came up in the process of commissioning some summer ties from Mulberrywood in Colorado. Because this is all at long distance, I don't actually have the luxury of trying one on and saying "yes" or "no."

Dear Concordia,
I think you hit the nail on the head. It's a question of balance -- the width of a lapel and the width of a tie seem to need to be in harmony. Also, the thicker knots work better with wider spread collars. Thicker ties with heavier weight shirting, etc. .

Just my two cents prbably too much reliant on "conventional standards."

Regards,
CCox

I settled on 3.6-3.75" for my English styled wardrobe. It works with my lapels.

That's about the current width of the English makers like New & Lingwood, and the Italian width of three of four years ago. The latter is still available.

After many attempts, I choose a width that goes from a minimum of 9cm and a maximum of 9,5cm. That is good for both my phisique and coats.

But that's really an indivudual matter; that's why bespoke exists!

Giona.

There are a few considerations regarding ties, their width and knots, that need to be addressed. It's a three volume book with a preface, but here is the very, very abridged version.

The first consideration is the knot, its dimension and volume. The first challenge is to add width to a bespoke tie in the right places to achieve the desired knot dimensions (length and width) and balance between head, shoulders, lapel width and collar size. Before one can start working on the tie and its knot, it is necessary to have made a decision on these features as well. The collar size, height and length of its points are critical.

As an example, let us imagine that the person in question has a very large head and broad shoulders. The large featured man will often choose a higher collar with longer collar points. He will, as a consequence, choose to add width in the cut of his tie at the knotting point which will create a longer knot. The longer knot is needed to balance the longer collar points. The knot should not be either too short nor too long with respect to the length of the collar's points. It is a matter of preference, but some men prefer a knot that arrives just slightly short of the length of the points.

Once the width of the tie has been determined and calculated to create the desired length of knot then considerations can begin about its depth and overall size. These dimensions are controlled by the thickness of the silk used and the thickness of the linings used in the tie. Of course, this feature can also be modulated as a function of the knot style employed as well (Four in hand vs Windsor etc.) A thicker silk with thick lining will make a stout knot. A lighter silk, unlined will produce a foulard look. Some place between these two extremes, men will find the combination that suits them the best.

So now we have a tie with a knot whose dimensions have been studied and designed in harmony with the shirt collar, coat lapel width etc. The next step will be to create a harmonious line to the rest of the tie from the knot on downwards. This is a relatively simple thing to do as long as the work at the knot has been done well.



In the photo of Windsor one sees a very sturdy knot whose length is just a bit longer than that of the collar points. He has also chosen to cut his collar with about an inch worth of tie space to accomodate the larger knot. (And he is holding a "Duke" model pipe made by Dunhill!)



Astaire has opted for a midway approach as regards his knot's length and heft. Like Windsor, he has employed an inch or more of tie space on his collar.

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