The London Lounge

Alden's list of recommended shoes (merely a line in the recommended wardrobe) is very vague. Anyone care to elaborate on the selection of shoes every well-dressed man should have, for maximum versatility?

The minimum list included 4 oxfords, 2 dressy derbys and a double soled blucher wingtip.

The four oxfords can be broken down as two cap toes one in black and one in brown for work purposes and dress. Add one tan or suede oxford for more casual dress and a plain front black for more formal wear. The two dress derbys might be a three eyelet and a Windsor like wingtip in brown or tan. The heavy blucher would be in a leather EG calls "country calf" in brown or tan.

It might be wise to include a "spectator" in calf and canvas, or suede and canvas to the list for Summer wear. An all canvas shoe could also be added, though making one bespoke would be an extravagance.

It would be nice to see someone make a nice RTW canvas shoe for Summer. How about a Holborn in canvas on a wonderful last like the EG 82?

There should be room on the list for a suede Chukka.

There are many, many other possibilities regarding shoe selection. Our members will surely chime in with their own lists and priorities. The above configuration is a minimum list at best.

Is that ten shoes you recommend?

Shoes are collectibles to a greater extent than any other part of the wardrobe, and they last most of a lifetime. Every time I fill an imagined hole in my closets, I have already found another style to covet .

Tony Gaziano brought a pair of chocolate bespoke brogues on his last visit. I think of them often.

I can whittle it down to three essential pairs:

Black cap toe balmorals (English: black oxfords).
Brown wing tip, either balmorals or blucher (English: full brogues or derby brogues).
Loafers in the colour of your choice.

With these three essential pairs you will appropriately shod in every situation.
If the Imelda bug bites you, the sky is the limit.

Rolf

I think I need at least a summer chukka boot, unlined in a light, suede; and a winter one, and this would be in cordovan.

For summer I would need also a spectator and a canvas.
For winter, a double sole derby, and an heavy oxford.

At least one plain oxford black shoe is needed.

The rest is brown brown and brown. Oxfords and derbies as needed.

Though I don't disagree with Mr Alden regarding what is "properly" necessary in a wardrobe, I shall state simply what I desire to own in my wardrobe (when I can find a suitably attractive pair of each):

1 Black Cap-Toe Oxfords - the classic. Essential. Timeless.
1 Black Plain Toe Derbys - three hole, a very sleek model. With a high degree of polish, these are my preference for formalwear. I dislike patent in general.
1 Black Wing-Tip Oxfords - with slight broguing.
1 Black Loafers - for the weekend. I love my horsebit pair, it's a muted metal so they're not too flashy.

1 Brown Plain Toe Oxfords - a rich deep brown, with some cloudwork.
1 Brown Plain Toe Single-Piece - not sure the proper technical name for these, I mean the type that Olga Berlutti is enamoured of, made from one piece of leather with the laces through the top. A slightly cloudy tan.
1 Brown Suede Driving Shoes - Tan, soft enough to wear without socks.
1 Brown Zip-side or elasticised Ankle Boots. For the country. Although, I am bothered as to what sort of trousers would be appropriate. Denim notwithstanding.

1 White Plain Toe Derbys. For light trousers in summer on the Cote d'Azur. I wish.

1 Spectator-type shoe, canvas and brown leather. At risk of sounding too much like a follower of flashy fashion, I adore Gucci's canvas spectator with a monk-strap and a wingtip-type toe. Luckily they are nearly out of season so I won't be tempted.

This is my ten, off the top of my head. I'm sure I'm missing something, though.

Regards,

Eden

What do members feel about wearing loafers with suits?
Personally, I have only worn lace ups until recently.
But now find that loafers make for an interesting change of pace, particularly paired with a lighter colored, less formal suit and interesting socks. Plus loafers are lighter weight than lace ups and very convenient for business travel, mixing well with the day wear suit and then the evening casual wear.
Thoughts?

We wear patent leather pumps and bows with formal wear so why not loafers with suits. Now there are loafers and there are loafers. Some are more dressy than others and more suitable with suits. Some, like the penny loafer, are more to be worn with very casual wear. Others, like EG's "Montpellier" work better with many more suitings.

The biggest problem with loafers is fit as Tony Gaziano has written here previously. But if they are comfortable for you, then wear them.

You could wear them as the gents above sans socks.

Michael, if I am not mistaken, the shoes in the drawing above are canvas, and the 'loafer' looks like a stylized espadrille - not out of place in such a setting, and wonderfully cool for the feet!

I believe loafers with suits is possible, as long as it is approached with caution. Their shape needs to be right: they need to be designed for style as much as comfort. Which is to say, a sleek shoe, preferably black or dark brown calf (no suede here. Or ostrich, stingray, etc), with a proper sole, a reasonable heel, and not too much in the way of flashy adornments, topstitching, or the like.

I wear black loafers to work perhaps once every two weeks, usually with a black suit with wide enough trouser legs to cover the top part. It is clear that I am not dressing down, and as such they blend seamlessly (I hope) into the outfit.

Cheers,

Eden

I have to say, I don't like loafers. But that's me.

I've come to appreciate the wearing of some slip-ons with some suits, sometimes.

One should be aware that slip-ons, loafers, indicate an insouciant wearer. Occasionally, that is compatible with the wearer's attitude and intent; often, particularly in business, it is not.

I think that wearing loafers is a style worth developing and cultivating.

It can add a lightness to one's walk and interesting counterpoint to tone down more formal suits, perhaps much like a suede lace up brogue with suits.

Socks are important as they more readily show.

But wearing loafers can definitely add a style note to suits.

I don't have the right style loafer at the moment, but shall be hunting for some this summer.

I enjoy the Edward Green Wigmore casual with suits, but that's the only style I'm that casual about. Cleverley's elastic sided models are also nice.