Vass Shoes

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

BenedictSpinola
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 9:17 am

I’m off to Budapest this weekend. I emailed Vass in January so that I could plan my flights around a bespoke fitting – I received a short reply confirming that they would be open on Saturday the 26th between 10 and 2pm. I duly booked my flights taking this information into account. More or less on whim, I decided to email Vass earlier on this week to see if they’d like me to specify the time to attend for a fitting, only to be told that the person who takes the measurements won’t be available this Saturday – “Could you come in on Friday?” they asked. This isn’t possible, as I can’t reschedule my flights.

I can understand that the staff at Vass must have a holiday sometime; however I am not terribly pleased by this situation and I thought that other members might be able to learn from my experience. Trouble is that I’m not sure what they’ll learn: I don’t know what I could have done to avoid this situation, short of emailing them fortnightly to monitor the latest staffing developments.

As yet the situation is unresolved – I have explained my predicament to Eva Vass and asked if there is anyone else who could take my measurements. I’ll post about the outcome at a later time.
alden
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 9:59 am

I was left with a very bad impression relative to customer service on my recent trip to Vass in Budapest. I really thought French merchants were the world champions of rudeness until I walked into the Vass shop. Therefore, what you are relating to us is by no means a surprise.

One overriding principle in the "elegant life" is to avoid rude, impolite, dishonest and or uncaring people in general and artisans in particular. They will not serve you well and even if they were to do so, your patronage rewards their inappropriate behavior.

Northampton is an hours train ride away. The shoes are much better. And the people there are chock full of class. Just a suggestion...

Cheers
Cruz Diez
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:47 am

Vass... hmmm.... although not nearly as disappointing as Mr. Spinola's experience, I also had mixed feelings when I visited them last Summer.

I had planned on commissioning a pair of Budapesters, so I emailed them several times before my trip. I never got a reply. I was going to Budapest for tourism anyway, a short train ride away from Germany where I was staying at the time, so it wasn't really a big deal. When I arrived, surprise! Somewhat indifferently, the ladies said the person who takes the measurements was away for three weeks. When I asked about my emails, they actually acknowledged they got them, and admitted being too busy for sending a reply! So after observing their shoe selection for a while, I said, "Maybe next year I stop by to order the shoes (tongue in cheek), have a nice day".

Vass shoes are lovely and handmade to very high standards, but in terms of materials and styling selections, they are no different than a RTW firm. The customer is limited to choose from their existing last shapes, skins, and patterns, which are reasonably varied, but still, not fully bespoke. In my view, bespoke means I am free to specify the shape of my last , carved from scratch, whatever skin I want, where my soles are sourced from, and down to the position of the last brogue punch. At Vass prices, Kielman makes an equivalent or better shoe, and 100% bespoke. Naturally, there are other fine alternatives in Italy (see Giona's report) and the ultimate, in England. But English bespoke is at least 3 times more expensive than Vass/Kielman.

Mr Spinola, I really hope your situation with Vass is resolved.. best of luck, and please keep us posted.

Best regards,
:D Miguel :D
RWS
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 2:13 pm

Dear Miguel,

Encouraged by your praise of Kielman, I perused the Polish company's website. It's interesting, but not exciting (no beautiful Green- or Lobb-like views). Might you be so kind as to post a few words about your experiences with them, perhaps illustrated by your commissions?

With thanks,

Robb Storm
Guest

Thu Mar 24, 2005 2:32 pm

You can se images of his bespoke shoes in this album

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/album09

Nice.

Under Photojournal section.

Giona.
BenedictSpinola
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 2:43 pm

Gentlemen,

I have just explained my predicament to Eva Vass via the phone. To her credit, she has arranged for a fitting on Saturday at a mutually convenient time. She seems very polite – I’ll let you know how I get on.

Miguel’s shoes look nice. I don't think that Kielman do their shoes justice on their own website. There is a nice - though blurred - photo of a Kielman shoe at http://www.grailtrail.ndo.co.uk/Grails/shoe.html

Spinola

P.S. Had things not worked out I would have followed Mr. Alden's sage advice.
tattersall007
Posts: 49
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 5:41 pm

Dear Sirs,

I've not been to Bupapest to order bespoke but have communicated with Eva Vass regarding an RTW order. It did take a while for my email to be answered, but when it was, she was both polite and accomodating. In the end I've placed my order through Gabor Halmos - both he and Andrew Harris (the USA reps) are gentlemen with whom I would not hesitate to do further business.

best regards,

Tony
pchong
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Fri Mar 25, 2005 3:14 am

I recently purchased a pair of Budapester in budapest last from a small store in Zurich - tucked in a corner between Talstrasse and Paradeplatz. The store, called Brogues and More and owned by the affable Christina Shuler who is a self confessed shoe addict also carries other gentlemen necessaries, and she does bespoke coats in Harris Tweed.

She tells me that one can order MTM Vass from her - specify the leather, the lass, the style and the size (or she will take some measurements, I guess not as precise as would those taken by Mr. Vass in Budapest, but Zurich is far more convenient than a trek to Hungary). RTW were CHF750 a pair. She also has RTW in the house name made by the other Budapest shoemaker. As with others made by Vienesse maner - Heimlich (sp?) and Crockett & Jones.

The Vass are made with great love and care, and is evident in an examination of the shoe...more handwork than the RTW EG or JL (Paris). But the Budapester last, though supremely comfortable (I wore them on 7 hour walks in Hong Kong last week with great comfort), the high toe cap means a less than elegant shoe, and the goyser stitching means a rugged and informal, may I say less elegant than a pair of EGs in 808 last.
tteplitzmd

Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:28 pm

I have read with interest the commentary regarding Vass. I spent a very pleasant hour meeting with Mr. Gabor Halmos in New York a week ago. This was to make arangements for my visit to Budapest in August, and hopefully to be measured on August 15 (sic). He explained the workshop will be closed at that time but that Eva Vass or Mr. Vass should be available in the shop. I provided him with my Hotel and arrival dates.

I will be very disappoiinted if arrangements fall thru, but my experience with luxury goods is that the maker/merchant's interest in accomodating the customer is clearly a function of their interest in making a sale. For a small maker If business is good, or too good, the reception can be icy. Let the market determine who survives.

I will post my results after the summer visit.

Terry A. Teplitz
BenedictSpinola
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Tue Mar 29, 2005 2:59 pm

Gentleman,

I am back from a very relaxing trip to Budapest.

I had my appointment at Laszlo Vass on the morning of Easter Saturday. As many of you will be aware, the store is in the middle of an upmarket shopping district. The store is rather small, but pleasant enough. Eva Vass was in the shop when I arrived and proved to be very charming & exactly the sort of person I’m comfortable dealing with. I began by examining some of their shoes – I’d not seen them before (save in photos) and I was very much impressed by their construction. The quality of the detailing on the shoes, such as the brogueing is second to none. I did note, however, that the welt stitching is not quite as tightly packed as that of my English shoes, but as they’re hand stitched, I think I’ll let them off the hook for this transgression :lol: .

After looking at some examples of shoes, I tried on some ready-to-wear models so they could gain an idea of how these suited my feet. Following this, I was measured – this included a tracing of my stockinged foot whilst I was seated, together with circumference measurements taken at 4 locations on my foot. I then decided on styles. In the end I plumped for a black boxcalf plain wholecut and a borbeaux boxcalf half brogue, both on the narrow-toed U last. I fleetingly considered cordovan (it only attracts a premium of 5000 florints), but I decided the leather wasn’t to my current tastes. I must say that Vass seemed a little more flexible than I had been led to believe, though I didn’t press them to do anything terribly out of the ordinary. They are also flexible about fittings – Eva said that they would be happy to post the shoes, but that I’d have to return to the store if there were fitting problems. Their preference, and mine, was for me to go back to Budapest for a fitting.

If any members are after tips on where to stay in Budapest (my hotel was superb) or what to do, I would be happy to provide some suggestions.

Spinola
tteplitzmd

Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:01 pm

Since I have no plans for a return trip to Budapest after my upcoming August visit, would you suggest deferring a first order? Mr. Gabor Halmos, their NYC rep. represented that the single visit to Budapet for a first fitting results in about an "80%" correct fit. Please advise after you receive the shoes by post.

Terry A. Teplitz
BenedictSpinola
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Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:18 pm

Terry,

I shall be going back to Budapest for a fitting. Given that their standard last fitted quite well I don't anticipate problems, but I'd rather play it safe. My schedule over the next few months is busy, so I might not go for a fitting until August. Should some unforeseen circumstance force me to chance having them post the shoes, I shall let you know.

Spinola
alden
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Tue Mar 29, 2005 5:00 pm

Budapest is such a pretty place with so many lovely sights, you may want to play it safe and have three or four fittings dear Benedict. :wink:

We may have to have our joint LL Continental Europe and London meeting there. No? We would be assured of full attendance wouldn't we?

Cheers
BenedictSpinola
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Tue Mar 29, 2005 7:16 pm

Michael,

I'm certain that the members would enjoy a meeting in Budapest. I can picture them brunching at Gerbaud, and I suspect that some may even revolutionise bathing wear at the Szechenyi :wink: . The only factor stopping me going back for three or four fittings is that I don't have the patience to wait for the finished article.

Spinola
alden
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Tue Mar 29, 2005 7:26 pm

Benedict,

Bespoke Gellert-wear, we should get our LL artisans working on it immediately. What would Tony have us wear for shoes, ...shoes? Steve, Tom and Len we are waiting for your Gellert designs. Of course, Teplitz has found the tent makers fabric at Textile King, perfect!
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