The London Lounge

Dear members,

Is anyone aware of Optimo hats? Any advice or recommendation?

I like their style but I would like a second opinion as they are quite pricey.

Best,
A

Quality hats are usually pricey, regardless of the seller. Some of those in my modest collection were EBay purchases gotten at affordable prices. I’ve not personally dealt with Graham Thompson, so would be unable to provide anything of value about Optimo; however, I can recommend a few US hatters that are generally well regarded, i.e Brent Black for Montecristi Panamas; Steve Delk, who I’ve been told has passed his business to John Penman, who Brent has intimated “is obsessive about details”; and Gary (White) Witkowski in Buffalo NY. The latter has made so very many hats that you’ve seen in Hollywood films. Good luck…and tread cautiously: hats are bewitching.

Hats, not unlike bench-made tailoring and shoes—and most artisanal, handmade products—are experiencing the accelerated erosion of quality by the retirement/death of the craftsmen that have supplied these in past years. but are not being replaced by young apprentices. While we may have reached the tipping point and be past the point of no return, we at the LL, and many others elsewhere, recognize this regrettable development and continue to do our parts to support true craft wherever and whenever possible.

I have (I think) about half a dozen hats from Optimo. I am part of their insider program. Graham Thompson is passionate about hats, about all things hats and the crafting of hats. If you can, you owe it to yourself to visit their store in Chicago--it is a remarkable retail space and a temple of hats.

Several of my hats are, essentially, bespoke. The most recent hat was made to be a copy of a Stetson Stratoliner, only bigger. I had a zoom call with Graham where we discussed my concept and he showed me 6 or 8 candidate blanks from which he could make the hat I was conceiving. It is a superb hat. All my hats from Optimo are superb. I have a couple of panamas, too, and they are definitely on a par with Brent Black's offerings at the same price point. I have a hat made by John Penman, too, and while John's hat is also beautifully made, I find it has taken a back seat to my Optimos.

My advice would be to take a look at their website purely to get an idea of style and color and so on. Then visit with or call them and arrange at least a zoom call with Graham or one of his team. Then you can discuss more details about what you want. You might find that they have exactly what you need in stock. Or they'll make you something. Either way, it will be one of the best hats you'll ever own, if not actually the best.

I can recommend Optimo without reservation.

This is a custom adaption of their "Dearborn" model fedora in a heavy brown felt (it probably has a name):
IMG_4675 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

And this is also a custom Dearborn in a lighter weight, blue pearl felt, my favorite felt hat:
IMG_2297 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

This is a Park Avenue, I think, in Silverbelly felt:
IMG_6819 by Andrew Poupart, on Flickr

If you're interested in their panama offerings, I can find a picture or two of my Optimo panamas, too. Just let me know.

The universe of quality mens hat makers is diminished.

I would say that Optimo is one of its brightest stars.

Are you buying at the Chicago store, a trunk show, or remotely?

I can recommend Graham Thompson. He does excellent work, is honest and accomodating too. I want to share with you my experience and views.

I lived and worked in Washington, D.C. metropolitan area and owned at least a half dozen Optimo hats, all fedoras. When I was buying high quality fedoras and panama hats, the two big U.S.A. names amongst most hat afficianados were Graham and Art Fawcett.

Before spending your money on pricey modern fedoras, you may want to consider that vintage (before 1950's) hats used better materials. Think of vintage felt material like London Lounge Cloth Club selections. Modern felt material is nowhere near what vintage felts were like. When I feel my fingers running over a 1930's or 1940's Stetson 7X Clear Beaver fedora and then do the same to my Optima fedora made in early 2000's, I am absolutely astonished at the difference. Master hatmaker Art Fawcett has said the same. He said he can make a hat as well made as the vintage hats but he does not have the felt materials that were used in vintage hats. I heard the same thing from a retired hat maker in my city who learned the art from his father in Italy before WWII.

From reading one of your London Lounge postings, I learned you are tall and slim. You are prefect for a hat wearing gentleman. If you have not discovered a very good resource for fedoras, you may want to look into fedora lounge.com.
Let us know what hat you eventually settle on. Just be aware the our insect friends, the moths, consider felt hats as if they are dining in Michelin Four Star restaurants.
Front Row: blue Optimo, oxblood Art Fawcett, brown Optimo. Back row: beige 1930" Stetson 7X Clear Beaver

Dear Anikolov,

Chicago is not often on my way, but when it is, a visit to the Optimo store is mandatory. Graham is a pleasure to deal with, their hats are a staple in my wardrobe. I have four or five and wear them more often than any other hat. Felt quality is at pair with my old hats from the 50s/60s I was able to purchase some years ago, but the finish is more exquisite.

Cheers, David