R.I.P. David Graham of Smith Woolens, W Bill

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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alden
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Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:24 pm

I was devastated today to learn of the passing of David Graham, former Managing Director and Proprietor of Smith Woolens and W. Bill.

I was so fortunate to know Mr Graham for the better part of twenty years. He was a mentor and a good friend. I looked so much forward to seeing him on my monthly trips to London and to Savile Row. He was always available to answer questions and to share his immense knowledge of textiles. He was always cheerful, buoyant and full of life. And he was always a consummate professional.

His kind is a vanishing breed. And he will be missed by all who knew him. And especially by yours truly.

In this all too short video, Mr Graham sums up so many of the truths about cloth, tailoring and of style that many of us here adhere to despite living in the disposable age.

https://vimeo.com/8236504
L.deJong
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Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:50 pm

I have been in that same cellar (if it's the cellar at W.Bill in London). It allas was shut down a year ago...I'm really sorry to hear of his passing.
He was indeed always cheerful and helpful!
I bought my first (real) cloth there, so I learned at the beginning of my bespoke journey what cloth is good and what not!
old henry
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Mon Nov 19, 2018 5:35 pm

OH MY GOD. A 15oz worsted? Where's my safe space ?
So much in this video. ( including Michael's suit )
I have bolts of W.Bill , Keepers Collection in my shop produced by this gentleman. W.Bill Keepers Collection is a thing of the past. Rich, thick, dense cloth from when it was practical to wear such cloth. I have the old W.Bill books, too. Gents have no use for these cloths today. They are too heavy. Or so they've been told (sold). RIP David.
Ps..LdeLong , you have a promising future.
davidhuh
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Mon Nov 19, 2018 11:53 pm

Gentlemen,

I'm very sorry to hear the news about David Graham's death. An adorable man and a wonderful character who sold me the barathea for both my black and my white tie. I have fond memories of the divine cellars at 16a Dufours Place. May he rest in peace!

David
Leonard Logsdail
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Mon Nov 26, 2018 5:59 pm

I started my business in December of 1971. These were the days of the "good ole boys". The established of Savile Row were determined to shut our business. "How dare you" said Bobby Valentine" open a business with prices lower than ours". Well, thankfully, David Graham and his father had a different point of view. They saw 2 young men trying to start a business and helped us tremendously. When David retired I called him to remind him, and sincerely thank him, for his assistance during that period of my life. My life would have been different without him.

Sad news that he has died.
alden
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Mon Nov 26, 2018 6:08 pm

Leonard,

Thank you sincerely for that story.

We are all grateful to David Graham for so many things, and helping you start your business is just another.

Best

Michael
Jimmy9lives
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Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:42 pm

Leonard Logsdail wrote:I started my business in December of 1971. These were the days of the "good ole boys". The established of Savile Row were determined to shut our business. "How dare you" said Bobby Valentine" open a business with prices lower than ours". Well, thankfully, David Graham and his father had a different point of view. They saw 2 young men trying to start a business and helped us tremendously. When David retired I called him to remind him, and sincerely thank him, for his assistance during that period of my life. My life would have been different without him.

Sad news that he has died.
R.I.P

Looking back now dont you think the good ole boys were kind of right? Lower prices means lower wages which means further lower prices which leads to an eventual vanishing of the craft itself? Driving down prices decimated both the cloth industries and the tailors.
Leonard Logsdail
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Sun Dec 02, 2018 2:27 am

Who said we paid our tailors less? We didn't have the high overheads and were therefore able to charge less.

Our tailors were our friends. We looked after them as much, if not more, than most
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