The London Lounge

Hello,

I work in NYC for a tech company that doesn't have a strict dress code. My experience with commissioning Bespoke Tailoring is limited to Steed Tailors; I have two solid flannel suits through them. I'd like to commission a patterned Odd Jacket next: a gun club check or a glen plaid. I'm very happy with Steed, but I'd also like to try another Tailor - perhaps Neopolitan (travelling tailors who frequent NYC are preferred).

I know Steed is able to produce this one-piece back. Given my limited direct experience working with any other Tailors, I was hoping you can share your personal experiences on this topic.

1) Is a one-piece back something that all Tailors can execute?
2) Is a one-piece back important to you if you're commissioning a jacket with a pattern such as gun club check, glenn plaid, or pinstripes?
3) Aside from Sartoria Dalucoure, is there any other Neapolitan Tailors you'd personally recommend to execute this?

Here is a couple of images I've gathered from the internet on the topic:

Steed - http://bespokewrinkles.com/post/1515302 ... nstruction
Sartoria Dalcuore - https://www.instagram.com/p/BGwf8B6CZza/

Thank you in advance for sharing!

Gero

If you do not have a round back a one piece back is great.

old henry wrote:If you do not have a round back a one piece back is great.

Hey old henry,

Thank you for the insight; I hadn't thought about the posture. Fortunately I do not have a round back.

Thanks again!

old henry wrote:If you do not have a round back a one piece back is great.

I had never come across a 1 piece back until the last time I happened to call in to my tailor's a few weeks ago. he had been making a very impressive drape coat for a gent who is a serious enthusiast of all things 'teddy boy' - as in :



Despite the origins of the teddy boy look being associated with working class lads in the 1950's, today's enthusiasts take the drape coat 'look' very seriously and will evidently spend a correspondingly impressive sum to get what they want.

I learnt that a 1 piece back is an essential component in the style (visits to his shop are always an education).

I assume that although the cut of the coat is correctly sized in length / width for the wearer, the silhouette is not at all fitted? The trousers appear to be a different matter however.

As a child of the 60's / 70's, I was not, myself, tempted...


Edit - Theres more to this teddy boy business than Id appreciated :http://www.edwardianteddyboy.com/page2.htm

Melcombe wrote:

old henry wrote:If you do not have a round back a one piece back is great.

I had never come across a 1 piece back until the last time I happened to call in to my tailor's a few weeks ago. he had been making a very impressive drape coat for a gent who is a serious enthusiast of all things 'teddy boy' - as in :



Despite the origins of the teddy boy look being associated with working class lads in the 1950's, today's enthusiasts take the drape coat 'look' very seriously and will evidently spend a correspondingly impressive sum to get what they want.

I learnt that a 1 piece back is an essential component in the style (visits to his shop are always an education).

I assume that although the cut of the coat is correctly sized in length / width for the wearer, the silhouette is not at all fitted? The trousers appear to be a different matter however.

As a child of the 60's / 70's, I was not, myself, tempted...


Edit - Theres more to this teddy boy business than Id appreciated :http://www.edwardianteddyboy.com/page2.htm

Hey Melcombe,

Thanks for sharing this. I'm starting to think that client's today very rarely ask for a jacket made with a one-piece back.

old henry wrote:If you do not have a round back a one piece back is great.

This is why, even with Edwin's genius, he doesn't do them for me. He's very polite about it.

A one piece back does not allow for the necessary pattern manipulation and shaping. Some tailors, like myself, do not like to force shape with the iron. Edwin knows this. We shape on the pattern. Over shaping with the iron will come back to bite you on the first humid day.

NYC_AdTech wrote:
I know Steed is able to produce this one-piece back. Given my limited direct experience working with any other Tailors, I was hoping you can share your personal experiences on this topic.

1) Is a one-piece back something that all Tailors can execute?

Dear Gero,
most of my patterned tweed coats have a single piece back, executed by an old tailor who has now retired. Not all tailors are comfortable doing it. Do not force it on a tailor who is not used to it. Try it with Steed who does a brilliant job.
Also, I strongly recommend that you stick with the same tailor for the first ten suits, especially if you are happy with him. Don't listen to me if you are eager in making bad experiences and wasting money

NYC_AdTech wrote:2) Is a one-piece back important to you if you're commissioning a jacket with a pattern such as gun club check, glenn plaid, or pinstripes?

It is never "important". It is a nice option if coat has a larger pattern such as a window pane. I would avoid it with worsted cloth, but consider it with a patterned tweed as the cloth is more flexible than a dense worsted. Be aware that a single piece back has less inlay and will be less flexible for later adaptation in case your weight or muscles should increase.

NYC_AdTech wrote:3) Aside from Sartoria Dalucoure, is there any other Neapolitan Tailors you'd personally recommend to execute this?

Rubinacci for sure. But stick to Steed for the time being, trust me

Cheers, David

old henry wrote:A one piece back does not allow for the necessary pattern manipulation and shaping. Some tailors, like myself, do not like to force shape with the iron. Edwin knows this. We shape on the pattern. Over shaping with the iron will come back to bite you on the first humid day.

Dear Frank,

the old tailor doing my single piece backs without front dart was a true master in iron manipulation Never had a "biting experience" - but I see your point, especially if the coat is cut closer to the body.

Cheers, David

Yes ,David, Old tailors were magic. Yours still is. I love a one piece back with beautiful Tweed. It's old style with no front dart. Nice.

I'll post a one piece back manipulation on "Tailors and Fans of Tailoring " on Facebook later today. I have no problem shrinking cloth a bit or "staying" the cloth with the iron. I, myself, try to avoid any stretching. But I'm not an old Italian.

I posted a great article about Edwin's one piece back on Facebook.

davidhuh wrote:Try it with Steed who does a brilliant job. Also, I strongly recommend that you stick with the same tailor for the first ten suits, especially if you are happy with him. Don't listen to me if you are eager in making bad experiences and wasting money

Hey David

Thanks for the advice. I agree with you that I'd probably benefit more by sticking with Matthew/Edwin consistently for future orders.

I've found that professionally and socially I've rarely had to wear suits, which is partly why I've been thinking about commissioning a jacket in the future. The idea I had in mind for this kind of jacket is something cut closer/leaner in the chest - which is something Matthew/Edwin can accommodate. However, I also wanted to try a different shoulder expression and more rounded quarters - something akin to a Neapolitan style. I'd of course never ask them to make a Neapolitan style jacket.

davidhuh wrote:It is never "important". It is a nice option if coat has a larger pattern such as a window pane. I would avoid it with worsted cloth, but consider it with a patterned tweed as the cloth is more flexible than a dense worsted. Be aware that a single piece back has less inlay and will be less flexible for later adaptation in case your weight or muscles should increase.

Thanks for the info; these are some points I didn't consider.

davidhuh wrote: Rubinacci for sure. But stick to Steed for the time being, trust me

Hahah - yes. I'm still very happy with my original commissions & I think they're great people.

Thank you!

old henry wrote:I'll post a one piece back manipulation on "Tailors and Fans of Tailoring " on Facebook later today. I have no problem shrinking cloth a bit or "staying" the cloth with the iron. I, myself, try to avoid any stretching. But I'm not an old Italian.

Hey Frank,

I just saw your posts on Facebook - thanks for sharing that.

My pleasure