Christmas tale from Switzerland
Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:20 am
Gentlemen,
I was in the firm believe that my home country had no tailors left. I knew I was wrong since some time - there is somebody in Zurich whom I never met, and there was a Mr Häberli in Basel who recently left to open shop in Copenhagen where the grass is more green. In Berne where I live, I used to go to a Macedonian alterations tailor to fix immediate problems such as loose buttons. I knew for some time that they had a small scale bespoke operation running, but I didn't give it a lot of trust. The only cloth available was Scabal. And the only clients I ever met in the shop came to fix their RTW suits.
A few days before Christmas, when I went there to fix a button, I noticed a panel advertising a bespoke offer at rather astonishing prices - 400 CHF for a pair of trousers, 700 for a coat. Of course I inquired. Mr Umeri told me that he purchased some cloth from Germany that he got very cheaply and the offer was for getting this made up. He felt the need of doing some decent tailoring work, otherwise his fingers would have no practice. Then I said "what about if I give you some cloth, would you make it up?" Of course, he said. So I returned the next day with a piece of cavalry twill from the last subscription and the best cut trousers from the London House aka Rubinacci to copy. To be on the safe side, I also give him decent horn buttons. When he saw the model, he said this can be done, no problem, but not for 400. I asked how much, he said 500. He explained this was more elaborate, much more handwork than what he was offering. Still, it was a good deal and I agreed.
Two days ago, he called "Sir, your trousers are ready", and yesterday, I went to collect them. I tried them on, perfect fit. Without any fitting. He seemed proud, and said "we have your pattern now, at your service anytime". And he added "this material is absolutely phantastic - I hope you don't mind that I called up Lovat mill. They said they would send me their tweed bunch." Of course, I didn't mind. Then we talked a little. I wanted to know where he learned his trade. "From my father". Ah, the gentleman with the moustache who works five floors upstairs, I replied. Yes indeed, he said. Unfortunately, he left us three years ago after an aggressive tumour. I felt sad, I remembered the nice tall man who used to take my repairs in the past. "And where did you father learn the trade?" From his father, he replied. "You know, we are used to do everything by hand. Everything. Unfortunately, we have only very few customers who appreciate. I could do a real hand made coat for 1800, even better than the one you are wearing". Hm, that was a blow. My tweed coat was from a well known English cutter. I asked what was wrong with it. He said, he would place the pockets more forward and he would not make a roped shoulder but a spalla camicia by hand, without stuffing things up.
Now I'm thinking what to take to him next
. I have been wearing the trousers today. I'm full of praise for the cloth. And very happy with his work. Life is full of surprises 
I like the thought of having a tailor 500m from my house.
Cheers, David
I was in the firm believe that my home country had no tailors left. I knew I was wrong since some time - there is somebody in Zurich whom I never met, and there was a Mr Häberli in Basel who recently left to open shop in Copenhagen where the grass is more green. In Berne where I live, I used to go to a Macedonian alterations tailor to fix immediate problems such as loose buttons. I knew for some time that they had a small scale bespoke operation running, but I didn't give it a lot of trust. The only cloth available was Scabal. And the only clients I ever met in the shop came to fix their RTW suits.
A few days before Christmas, when I went there to fix a button, I noticed a panel advertising a bespoke offer at rather astonishing prices - 400 CHF for a pair of trousers, 700 for a coat. Of course I inquired. Mr Umeri told me that he purchased some cloth from Germany that he got very cheaply and the offer was for getting this made up. He felt the need of doing some decent tailoring work, otherwise his fingers would have no practice. Then I said "what about if I give you some cloth, would you make it up?" Of course, he said. So I returned the next day with a piece of cavalry twill from the last subscription and the best cut trousers from the London House aka Rubinacci to copy. To be on the safe side, I also give him decent horn buttons. When he saw the model, he said this can be done, no problem, but not for 400. I asked how much, he said 500. He explained this was more elaborate, much more handwork than what he was offering. Still, it was a good deal and I agreed.
Two days ago, he called "Sir, your trousers are ready", and yesterday, I went to collect them. I tried them on, perfect fit. Without any fitting. He seemed proud, and said "we have your pattern now, at your service anytime". And he added "this material is absolutely phantastic - I hope you don't mind that I called up Lovat mill. They said they would send me their tweed bunch." Of course, I didn't mind. Then we talked a little. I wanted to know where he learned his trade. "From my father". Ah, the gentleman with the moustache who works five floors upstairs, I replied. Yes indeed, he said. Unfortunately, he left us three years ago after an aggressive tumour. I felt sad, I remembered the nice tall man who used to take my repairs in the past. "And where did you father learn the trade?" From his father, he replied. "You know, we are used to do everything by hand. Everything. Unfortunately, we have only very few customers who appreciate. I could do a real hand made coat for 1800, even better than the one you are wearing". Hm, that was a blow. My tweed coat was from a well known English cutter. I asked what was wrong with it. He said, he would place the pockets more forward and he would not make a roped shoulder but a spalla camicia by hand, without stuffing things up.
Now I'm thinking what to take to him next
. I have been wearing the trousers today. I'm full of praise for the cloth. And very happy with his work. Life is full of surprises I like the thought of having a tailor 500m from my house.Cheers, David
. Last time I was upstairs in the workshop, I counted at least 6 people. At least two of his boys work downstairs as well.