Advice wanted: re-building a wardrobe

[belimad]

Friends,
I come today seeking your advise. Four years ago I left management consulting to become a venture capitalist, leaving my formal wardrobe behind, and switching to a "jeans and t shirt" attire which was a nice change after 20 years of wearing suits to work. Things have gone well, and I'm now stepping up to a more formal Asset Management business, where I will need to go back to wearing suits every day.

Now the complication lies in the fact that I had stomach surgery about 18 months ago, and I have "left" 50kg behind. So I have effectively rendered my old wardrobe useless (I've given about 90% of it to charity as a matter of fact).

I need to urgently rebuild my formal wardrobe. I know it will take me a while, and I need a good plan to do so. I have an urgent need of having "something" to wear in the upcoming weeks, and most of what I have in my wardrobe is casual/party attire. To make things more interesting, I will be traveling between Europe, New York and Latin America, so multiple weather situations need to be covered at the same time.

How should I start? How do I cover the immediate needs? What do I do next?

Thanks in advance for your thoughtful comments.

[Screaminmarlon]

A dark blue coat (blazer) plus medium (and light if possible) gray trousers, a blue suit, a gray suit and an oxford gray as well, all 13/16 oz cloth. You may double up with high twist and/or mohair for warmer season. A month or so should be enough.

[Concordia]

Those are all the staples.

If you're worried about multiple climates (especially on the same trip), start with the more substantial summer wear-- maybe 10oz, if that won't cause you to melt in the heat-- and also get an overcoat or raincoat with a liner.

[alden]

Screamin and Concordia have shown you the way.

If I were in this situation I too would have three suits made in LL Brisa (13 ozs worsted high twist cloth) in Navy Blue, Mid Gray and Dark Gray (just short of Charcoal.) Those three suits can be combined to handle any dressing situation, day or evening, more formal and less formal. Get yourself an Aquascutum SB raincoat with the heavy liner to wear while waiting to have an SB overcoat made in substantial cloth. This outerwear will work just fine over your 13 ozs suits to get through what remains of Winter; and you will be ready with them for Spring and Summer during which time you can have two to three flannel suits made: chalkstripe DB and plain SBs. The following winter, program a tailor to make you two suits in an LL Piuma 10 ounce cloth or some other decent Tropical weight (if such a thing exists.)

You will be good to go in a year with 6-8 suits.

Are there tailors available, on an urgent basis, to make all these for you quickly ie right away? Depends on where you live. The other option would be to see if someone you know is cycling out of a business wardrobe, someone whose clothes might fit you. If you post your RTW size, height and weight, there may even be some LL members who have a few suits to get you started. I would rather see you wear a broken in handmade suit than spend good money for MTM or RTW.

Cheers

[belimad]

Thanks my friends, this is incredibly useful. Eternally grateful!

I would appreciate any advise on tailors that could offer a somewhat speed turnaround: I live in London now, with frequent trips to Madrid and NY so those are options too. My tailor from my past life was in Madrid, but he has sadly retired since. Michael, I take it I could find the LL Brisa cloths in the Available stock/ and lost & found threads?

I would definitely consider the “shortcut” option to get things going: I am 175cm, about 98kg, and I am a 44.

[Concordia]

There may be some high-class thrift shops left in London. Years ago, they were on King's Road, and other spots in Chelsea/Belgravia. Deceased, newly-conditioned, or bored gentlemen ditching off their stuff to benefit the Church or some other entity. You have a standard-enough size to be a likely customer-- along with everyone else in town, sadly.

If you catch a tailor out of season, you might find a a slightly faster turnaround is possible. Since you're gearing up for warmer weather in a few months and can cover shortcomings with a heavy coat, think of Dugdale New Fine Worsted, Minnis Fresco, Harrisons New Spring Ram as alternatives so you don't have to wait too long on prying Brisa out of someone's hands. Probably the best thing will be to hop on the phone on Monday and see what can be arranged. For convenience, there are some excellent shops on St George St across from the church. My sources for SB are Steven Hitchcock and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury (who have just acquired what appears to be an excellent young cutter to replace John McCabe, who hopes to retire).

[couch]

I don't know whether David Saxby's vintage emporium Old Hat on the Fulham High Street is still in business; it was as of a bit over three years ago. Next door he was doing some MTM-ish tailoring as well which might help in a pinch. Old Hat used to regularly have vintage Poole, Gieves & Hawkes, and the odd Huntsman suit . . . . The link above has some great interview videos with David. Anyone know what he's doing currently? Is he still writing the agony column for The Chap?

[couch]

Update on David Saxby: Oh dear . . . .

[belimad]

I guess not... thanks for the suggestion anyway.

A quick update: Per a friends recommendation I visited Russell at Graham Browne and commissioned two sb suits: a gray herringbone (12oz) and a blue pin stripe (13oz). He claims he can have them ready in 2-3 weeks. I'll keep everyone posted.

I am off to Madrid later in the week, where I plan to order some shirts at Burgos and Langa.

Should I go ahead and order a third suit (lighter gray) with Russell, or seek a different tailor? If so, should I do so in London, or Madrid?

Thanks again for all your help!

[old henry]

Sounds MTM to me. 2 to 3 weeks for two first suits ? How many fittings are you getting. Especially with a first order. Make sure your not paying bench price if it's MTM. See how the first two suits fit so necessary adjustments can be made. A speedy turn around does not go hand in hand with true bench, gents. But once your tailor nails down your pattern things do get done sooner. He has balanced your pattern and he has gotten to know your shoulders and arm pitch.

[bond_and_beyond]

I have used Russell for a lot of my suits and am very happy. However I would never commission two suits at the outset with a new tailor. Start with one, perfect that as much as possible (refining the pattern) and then go for the next one.

BB

[old henry]

Spot on bond. And also for the gent above. Why would you seek out another tailor before you have even tried on from this tailor ? Or did I miss something ?

[bond_and_beyond]

Spot on bond. And also for the gent above. Why would you seek out another tailor before you have even tried on from this tailor ? Or did I miss something ?

Totally agree. I would start with one suit, see how it turns out before deciding any next moves. Maybe he doesn't like the fairly structured suit Russell makes (though he does both a softer version these days that I like, in addition to the traditional "City armour" banker suit) and wants something Italian instead. Hard to know until you see yourself in the suit.

BB

[Screaminmarlon]

I have used Russell for a lot of my suits and am very happy. However I would never commission two suits at the outset with a new tailor. Start with one, perfect that as much as possible (refining the pattern) and then go for the next one.

BB

+1

[old henry]

Structured -unstructured is a matter of haircloth in the chest or hymo. Give this guy a chance to hone in your pattern. It's all about a balanced pattern. Let this tailor do his job. You work with him he'll work with you. Don't go bouncing around. Right, Bond ? Find a solid tailor and be done with it.
Also , I always steer my customers to a herringbone weave these days as it gives the cloth a bit more hand.