The London Lounge

I am considering a lightweight single breasted sports jacket for summer. I have a linen suit from a SR tailor, but it wears very warm (even in the English summer) and so I am looking at Italian makers as an alternative. I would go full bespoke, probably in an unlined hopsack.

Who would members recommend among the Italians for a full bespoke, lightweight sports jacket (am looking for recommendations where you've had direct experience)? (I live in London, so someone who visits here would be beneficial, although not essential.)

Thanks.

Dear Sartorius,

your linen is wearing warm?
The likely reason is too much shoulder padding and/or heavy canvas. I avoid this even with heavy winter cloth.

The only Italian I'm experienced with is Rubinacci. Excellent service and fit, quick turn around and no language barrier (although my Italian is fluent, but this can be an issue).

Cheers, David

Sartorius_2 wrote: I have a linen suit from a SR tailor, but it wears very warm and so I am looking at Italian makers as an alternative.....probably in an unlined hopsack

Other things equal, a wool hopsack jacket will always wear warmer than a linen one.
Notwithstanding I believe that a light open weave hopsack blazer is a very clever piece to have in your wardrobe. I own one (quarter-lined) and I find it advantageous over linen because of its resistance to creasing and its durability/versatility for rougher travelling.
While it is true that some Italian tailors (specially those in Naples) do the no padding/no lining better than English tailors, I´m sure that -if you´re going full bespoke- you could find several SR tailors who can cut and put together a magnificent unlined hopsack coat.
Regarding recommendations of Italian tailors, I can speak -by own experience- very well of Andrea Luparelli from Sartoria Ripense (Rome) and Luigi Solito from Sartoria Solito (Naples). Both visit London regularly.
But, although I have not had experience with the Rubinacci house, I think you could have the best of both worlds (style and location) and have your unlined Neapolitan jacket at Mariano Rubinacci´s atelier on Mount Street in Mayfair.

I just saw a Zegna(RTW) Seersucker very nice .Its very cooling, light and the colors are bright.

Nik

Does anyone have any experience with Elia Caliendo?

Steven Hitchcock and A&S will, as a matter of course, use lighter-weight canvas than many SR houses.

Have you also switched over to linen shirts? In humid weather, the last thing you want to wear next to your body is superfine cotton. If you want something finer and lighter than traditional Irish linen, the D&J Anderson 170s collection has some excellent linen/cotton blends. Also, Bonfanti occasionally puts out a Safari quality that addresses the problem well.

If you are happy with RTW linen shirts, just head for Luca Faloni, Portofino range.

Thanks all for comments.

Am not a great fan of the Rubinacci cut, and they are also expensive. It was also my understanding that Rubinacci's London outfit does not actually offer full bespoke (at least not in the same way as you will get if you travel to their Italian HQ).

On the suggestions about using a SR maker but requesting less canvas, I think that would be high risk. The SR houses that I know are all wedded to their house style. They don't like (or excel) at alternatives. Perhaps there are exceptions, but it would be an expensive way to experiment.

Aston - how did we get from a full bespoke, lightweight sports jacket by an Italian maker, to linen shirts..?

Because in the post immediately before mine, it was suggested that linen shirts wear cooler than cotton ones..............

Sartorius_2 wrote: Rubinacci's London outfit does not actually offer full bespoke (at least not in the same way as you will get if you travel to their Italian HQ).

Well, nobody offers a full bespoke service like Rubinacci Napoli. In the price of your bespoke suit they will include 6 nights of lodging in Casa Rubinacci (I'm not kidding) if you're from out of town and are willing to stay around and enjoy Naples's delights while waiting for the fitting.

Sartorius_2 wrote: Am not a great fan of the Rubinacci cut, and they are also expensive. It was also my understanding that Rubinacci's London outfit does not actually offer full bespoke (at least not in the same way as you will get if you travel to their Italian HQ).

Dear Sartorius,

you were looking for a light cut, and there is hardly anything lighter than the Napolitan cut, as practised by this house. Regarding price: I don't share your opinion. And the London shop not offering full bespoke - this is not my experience.

Best regards
David

Thanks David. Neapolitan cut, yes, but Rubunacci's price for a sports jacket is 20 - 25% higher than the other makers I've been looking at (for no discernable reason other than brand).

hectorm wrote: Well, nobody offers a full bespoke service like Rubinacci Napoli.

It seems that I might have spoken too soon. Not because Rubinacci wouldn't include lodging in Naples with the price of a fully bespoke suit. They do. But because now Huntsman topped off this extravagance offering their clients to be flown to Islay, Scotland where you can design your own personal exclusive tweed and participate in the weaving process. Besides your fully bespoke suit by Huntsman you also get a bolt with 25 m of additional cloth for future orders.

hectorm wrote:

hectorm wrote: Well, nobody offers a full bespoke service like Rubinacci Napoli.

It seems that I might have spoken too soon. Not because Rubinacci wouldn't include lodging in Naples with the price of a fully bespoke suit. They do. But because now Huntsman topped off this extravagance offering their clients to be flown to Islay, Scotland where you can design your own personal exclusive tweed and participate in the weaving process. Besides your fully bespoke suit by Huntsman you also get a bolt with 25 m of additional cloth for future orders.

Good.

God.

Wait, what? No participation in the sheep-shearing?