Hunting smoking

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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davidhuh
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Mon May 15, 2017 8:47 pm

Gentlemen,

last week, I spent a few days in lovely Vienna, and when being there, I never miss visiting the most beautiful cloth shop on this planet, Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe, located just opposite the Albertina and next to the Sacher Hotel. An amazing selection of cloth, very knowledgeable staff, great quality ties, bow ties and an amazing selection of ascot scarves plus the friendly owner are well worth the visit.

While looking at some stuff last week, I heard a customer inquiring for "hunting smoking cloth", and witnessed quite a search after the right tone of green. As I never heard somebody talking of a "hunting smoking", I asked Mr Jungmann what this was about, once the client had left.

So, you basically need a castle somewhere between Budapest, Vienna, Innsbruck and Munich, some hunting grounds and a couple of gentlemen joining the fun. After hunting, every gentleman would prepare himself for dinner, wearing a dress coat, ideally in dark green barathea. The dark green barathea is impossible to get, so Mr Jungmann gets something woven by an Austrian mill for exactly this purpose. He is selling a coat length once or twice a year, as the potential customers don't seem to exist in very large numbers anymore 8)

Cheers, David
hectorm
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Tue May 16, 2017 3:23 pm

Talking about niche markets! :D
If the conversation was in German, I´m not quite sure if "smoking" in that context meant that cigars are involved or if it just refers to "smoking" as black tie (as in many other parts of the world). If cigars are involved I´m sure Herr Jungman would have already recommended some kind of a velvet cloth which is particularly good for dealing with smoke. Although -since green velvet is ready available- it would kill part of the exclusivity of the affair. :roll:
Luca
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Tue May 16, 2017 3:42 pm

I really enjoyed reading the OP. Long may such subtle distinctions and pleasures exist.
davidhuh
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Tue May 16, 2017 5:41 pm

hectorm wrote:Talking about niche markets! :D
If the conversation was in German, I´m not quite sure if "smoking" in that context meant that cigars are involved or if it just refers to "smoking" as black tie (as in many other parts of the world). If cigars are involved I´m sure Herr Jungman would have already recommended some kind of a velvet cloth which is particularly good for dealing with smoke. Although -since green velvet is ready available- it would kill part of the exclusivity of the affair. :roll:
Dear Hector,

the exact term used in the Austrian variety of German was "Jagdsmoking". It refers to smoking as black tie, using green cloth.

When Mr Jungmann mentioned his troubles with stocking the right cloth, I mentioned green velvet. Mr Jungmann gave a sigh :? "No no, velvet would be a no go - too British, you want to avoid that." 8)

Some further research shows me that "Jagdsmoking" can be worn when the dress code says "Tracht" - traditional costume. This opens its use beyond the hunting castle gathering, think: Jägerball (the traditional annual hunting ball), and especially weddings. Google image search gives you some rather doubtful results. Mr Jungmann had a clear opinion: "The correct coat is impossible to get in RTW or MTM. If you don't want to look ridiculous, bespoke is the only option. But this class of people doesn't wear anything else anyway..." Felix Austria :D

Cheers, David
Last edited by davidhuh on Wed May 17, 2017 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
hectorm
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Wed May 17, 2017 4:10 pm

davidhuh wrote: I mentioned green velvet. Mr Jungmann gave a sigh "No no, velvet would be a no go - too British, you want to avoid that."
For several years now I´ve been entertaining the idea of commissioning a green velvet dinner jacket, but its association to Christmas wear around here has held me undecided. Now I can use Mr Jungmann´s phrase to convince myself. The question is: in favor or against :D
Thank you for your explanation regarding Jadsmoking.
davidhuh
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Wed May 17, 2017 7:09 pm

hectorm wrote:in favor or against :D

Dear Hector,

in favour, of course 8) (sitting on some plum velvet here, foreseen for such a project...)

Cheers, David
Luca
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Thu May 18, 2017 12:11 pm

Another vote in favour (as you might expect...)
Richard3
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Thu May 18, 2017 12:51 pm

Actually there is no Mr. Jungmann; the owner`s name is Georg Gaugusch.
davidhuh
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Thu May 18, 2017 5:11 pm

Richard3 wrote:Actually there is no Mr. Jungmann; the owner`s name is Georg Gaugusch.
Dear Richard,

ashes on my head :roll: - I always called him Mr Jungmann, and he never objected...

Cheers, David
aston
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Thu May 18, 2017 5:42 pm

Jungmann..............Young Man.............Perhaps?
Richard3
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Fri May 19, 2017 5:36 am

davidhuh wrote:
Richard3 wrote:Actually there is no Mr. Jungmann; the owner`s name is Georg Gaugusch.
Dear Richard,

ashes on my head :roll: - I always called him Mr Jungmann, and he never objected...

Cheers, David
At least you didn't call him Mr. Nephew... :D
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