The London Lounge

Dear Sirs,

I finally got my first bespoke shoes, from a small artisan of Milano, Bestetti.

Since it is my first bespoke shoe, I can say it's a wounderful feeling. The shoes will cover my feet like a glove, no hurt. When I dress them I hear the classic "flush" sound.

They are a tobacco suede Oxfords Full Brogue; I chose a bevelled waist, with wood nails, and a sole of 9mm, for use with both suits and Tweeds; Bestetti obtains a thicker sole by choosing a thicker part of the leather, and not by gluing another piece of leater.

They are little bit harder to break in, but once it done (2 or 3 wears) it is wounderful, and make all my RTW shoes look uncomfortable and hideous. I cannot wait for the next day when I can wear my new shoes.

The process with the artisan, was very long but fruitful. I hade not less than 7 fitting sessions, and three trial shoes done. Also I had a great role in defining the shape, that was done entirely by hand and eye; no preformatted shape was used, but I defined the shape in tiny detail; I have to say that this shape is a bit far from the usual taste of the artisan, that is usually more "eccentric". This process is not for everyone, but it is very much satisfying! The short distance from my work-place has helped.

I'm sorry - and my wallet too!, but I can never get back to RTW shoes.

Giona.

PS
I added a folder in Members' Photos to show (bad) pictures of these shoes.

They look lovely. Great "banana" shape. Your shoemaker is a treasure. Seven fittings and three try-ons! Either you are a real stickler, or he is a perfectionist. Or both.

Congratulations. I enjoyed the photos and your report very much. I am wearing a similar pair today. They are similar, but not nearly as refined in shape as yours. I wish you many years of enjoyment for your efforts.

Goodness gracious, seven fittings and three trial shoes.

You've either paid a King’s ransom for the shoes or you must have brought Signor Bestetti to the edge of bankruptcy.

Never mind; Nice shoes.

Mr. Giaona;
Wonderful story and great results. My RTW shoes are pinching a bit today and I envy you your perfectly shod foot. Enjoy your walks!
CCox

Dear Giona,

You have excellent taste in shoes, congrats for your acquisition! As you have noted, I've found that working with an artisan not only rewards the customer with a superior product, but also by getting involved in the process, learning new things about the craft, and getting to know a person. Once you try a custom pair, you never look back. In my case, having peculiar feet, after I found Kielman, I sold my modest collection of RTW shoes off eBay!

It is very interesting to see pictures of shoes from different craftpersons. Each shoe is marked for life with the unmistakable signature of the artisan. For example, notice how Bestetti ends the welt before the sole transitions into a very narrow waist, very close to the uppers, whereas Kielman continues to use the welt, squeezed under the tight waist by skiving the strip. The way how they play with the 2-tone soles, the patterns of the nails, either brass or wooden, fancy-wheel indentations, all very different, but unique, and beautiful in their own way.

I hope that you got a pair of custom trees for your shoes. Did you ask for full sock lining? Usually I ask for full lining because it protects the insole from sweat and wear. I must admit, however, that the full lining spoils a bit the unique feel of a hand-sewn insole directly under your feet.

Best regards,
Miguel

Thank you very much for the nice comments!

Manton, yes I'm a stickler and my artisans do know it very well! And I didn't pay a king's ransom but I think Bestetti took it as a matter of principle to leave me satisfied, and he succeeded very much!

Nice comments, Miguel, Bestetti did a half insole lining, that is his standard, and it is lovely to see the hand finished part of the insole. But I think next time I will ask for a full lining, as I prefer the feeling.

Giona.

Jona wrote: They are a tobacco suede Oxfords Full Brogue; I chose a bevelled waist, with wood nails, and a sole of 9mm, for use with both suits and Tweeds; Bestetti obtains a thicker sole by choosing a thicker part of the leather, and not by gluing another piece of leater.

Giona:

Did you specifically ask for the wood pegs in the waist of the shoe, or was it something that Mr. Bestetti suggest? I've seen this occasionally on shoes, but here, at least, it's most common on American cowboy boots. On the boots,I think that the pegs are intended to secure the waist of the boot without a welt (the welt ends forward of the waist). Do they serve the same purpose on shoes?

John

Dear John,

my compliments! You are a real connoisseur!

You saw it right. Mr. Bestetti learnt to make bootmaker soles in Texas. Well, he learnt to make Boots in Texas, by Mr. Pablo Jass (http://www.jassbootshop.qpg.com/). He firstly made Texan boots, and still make, then he upgraded to shoes.

You are saying it right, wood pegs are meant to secure the waist without welt, that ends right before the waist. Of course he can do both styles, but I chose his traditional bevelled waist; this permit to achive an even subtler waist, and in his opinion is even stronger than the welted.

Giona.

Jona wrote: You saw it right. Mr. Bestetti learnt to make bootmaker soles in Texas. Well, he learnt to make Boots in Texas, by Mr. Pablo Jass (http://www.jassbootshop.qpg.com/). He firstly made Texan boots, and still make, then he upgraded to shoes.

I don't know much about Pablo Jass other than that he's a well-respected bootmaker. I'm afraid that I don't get out to Lampasas much. It any event, it looks like Mr. Bestetti learned his craft well. He's the second European maker I know of who trained with a Texas bootmaker, the other being Jan-Erik Melkersson in Sweden.

You are saying it right, wood pegs are meant to secure the waist without welt, that ends right before the waist. Of course he can do both styles, but I chose his traditional bevelled waist; this permit to achive an even subtler waist, and in his opinion is even stronger than the welted.

What wood did he use for the pegs? Lemonwood is traditional, but I don't know what particular properties it has that makes it so.

I do not know what wood does he uses; maybe it is different from the one found in Texas? Now, you made me curious about that.

One thing I know, it is that he told me that many tools he uses to make shoes and boots like he does, cannot be found in Italy, and he has to import them from England and USA.

Giona.

jcusey wrote:Did you specifically ask for the wood pegs in the waist of the shoe, or was it something that Mr. Bestetti suggest? I've seen this occasionally on shoes, but here, at least, it's most common on American cowboy boots.

I believe the use of wooden pegs is the traditional method of shoemaking used in the Alpine regions and goes further back in time than welted shoes.

The idea is that with moisture those pegs will expand and, unlike metal nails, will not fall out. They are hammered through all the soles (including the insoles) and are then scraped down from inside. There is a German firm by the name of Handmacher who still produce their entire range using those pegs:
http://www.handmacher-schuhe.de

Of course, I do not know if Signor Bestetti got his inspiration from the Tyrol or from Texas.

Rolf