The London Lounge

Last year, I had this little idea, but since I want to make it seem more important, I’m going to call it a vision. I had a few pairs from László Vass, which were more than enough to convince me of the skill and finishing of the Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking. I was sure the country housed more makers just waiting for discovery. Mind you, Vass is well-known thanks to the book Handmade Shoes for Men, yet I've never come across any advertisements of theirs on international business or lifestyle magazines. The same is true for other manufacturers, too. A quick search turned out some eight or nine cordwainers and artisanal makers retailing in Budapest. I chose Rozsnyai for the models and details on their website as well as the swell English their customer service spoke and wrote.

After a few emails I received leather samples in mid-brown shades for potential MTM orders along with instructions for measuring. A trip and visit was not possible for me, so I sent in my preferred details and measurements. Below's a few shots of my unorthodox (not the traditional swooping derby, but half-brogue) Budapester pair in the making. I'll update the end result soon.

Details:

-Fully handmade by healthy Hungarian hands
-Mid-brown buffalo leather
-Budapest last
-Half-brogue model instead of derby
-Dark purple lining
-Natural welt
-White goyser stitching
-Vibram Eton rubber sole

Dear VRaivio,

this is an interesting project, I'm looking forward to see the results.

VRaivio wrote: Mind you, Vass is well-known thanks to the book Handmade Shoes for Men, yet I've never come across any advertisements of theirs on international business or lifestyle magazines.

It is probably safe to assume that Vass doesn't need this kind of publicity to keep his business running.

I inquired about the Hungarian shoe makers in 2009 (see http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 62&p=57186). Vass was by far the best of them. My cordovan are a fine pair of shoes after 3 years of wearing, and the quality/price ratio is satisfactory.

However, the quality of the overall making is clearly better with English makers such as E Green and A Sargent, both in RTW and MTM. If I would want another shoe in Austro/Hungarian style, I would likely turn to Vienna shoe makers (Maftei, Scheer etc). Vass at least uses good quality leather, which I could not say from other makers I inquired about (Rozsnyai was not among them).

Cheers, David

Here are some photos of the finished pair:






































It's a clean shoe with a few interesting details I haven't found from other makers, like a lace holder on the tongue and heel stifferers continuing all the way to the vamp. There are around a dozen skilled Hungarian firms besides Vass, and Rozsnyai has nothing to be ashamed of. If only they'd set up a webstore so more men would give them a go.

Congratulations VRaivio! Very nice looking shoes!

Cheers, David

A nice shoe in the middle European dreadnought style.

Unmistakably Hungarian...

VRaivio, if this is what you wanted -- well done, indeed!

Andrey

Dear Ville,

Great photos. Both here, and on Keikari.

How do your shoes from Rozsnyai feel on the foot? Is there a difference in feel between an English make, and an Austro-Hungarian make?

Welcome to the LL by the way.

Regards,


C.

Many thanks, all. I have two other pairs from the maker as well, might as well share them with TLL soon. This last and contrast stitching look more dramatic in photos than when seen from around 185 cm height. I've a weakness for monster shoes. A triple sole Hungarian beast would be fun.

Well, the Budapester last bested me like I anticipated: it's high on the instep and voluminous around the ankle, the fit is off. After mentioning this, I asked for a new sock liner with several mms more cork for a better fit. This helped quite a bit, though I've added heel grips and tongue pads for closer fit and wear these with thick socks. Such are the troubles with long-distance custom orders. My second pair was an oxford, which has the best fit I've enjoyed so far.

This shoe looks excellent. Nice Alt Wein pattern...love the 360 degree double geyser stitching all around....so elegant

Maybe on your next commission you might consider steel eyelets to complete that gunboat look

Is the last design based on a Budapester raised rounded toe box?

They look amazing , I bet they feel really good too... Outstanding craftsmanship . Thank you for posting

Vassilis

I'm in Budapest at the moment, and discovered that Rozsnyai has a small shop on Haris Köz (the same street Vass has a shop (now two shops) on). To be frank, what is on window display is not impressing...

Ville's shoes are so much better.

Andrey

ay329, thank you. These were made on a Budapester last...for some reason the forum software won't display the photos entirely.

andrey, their homepage has two sections: classic pairs amount to some 20 models, extravagant pairs are nearly double this. It's best to have something made instead of relying on someone else's taste.

Some day I'd also like to try out Buday, another Hungarian shoemaker with a penchant for colour and...eccentric designs.

The second example pair is a MTM austerity oxford in orange-brown Italian buffalo leather with round but chiseled toe, natural welt with white stitching, dark purple lining, flush steel toe guards and single oak bark leather soles with beveled waist. I asked if they could bevel, and bevel they did -- the amount is like that on Edward Green shoes. The pair arrived in a sturdy gold colour box with dark green velvet lid and wooden shoe trees.

Lovely shoes, VR.