The London Lounge

All my bespoke suits are flannel/worsted with a bit of nap, from 9 oz. to 11 oz.

Belatedly, I'm thinking of making up a navy and a charcoal in a classic "flat"/"hard" worsted (not sure what to call it, but definitely not a flannel-y look). Because I live in warm weather in California, I want something materially (no pun intended) lighter weight than the suits I've had made up to date, to be comfortable in summer and late spring/early fall.

I've been looking at some Holland & Sherry 7 oz. (super 120s) and 8 oz. (super 100s). Just wondering in terms of how the suit will make up and hold up (to wear, wrinkles, etc.), is it "safe" to make a suit out of 7 oz. or 8 oz. fabric? I own enough suits now (six) that it's not like I'm going to wear these every day, but in my quest for comfort, I still don't want them to be too delicate.

My Savile Row tailor sent these to me as possibilities, so they must assume they're okay to use. But I thought I'd seek out the experts on LL for an independent assessment.

Thanks!

Prevailing religion on LL seems to discount the value of light weight suits, but in many cases they are a necessity. They will need to be dry-cleaned more often, and so will last a little less long, but done right they are fine and useful things to have.

A safe place to start looking is the Lesser 8-9oz tropical, and also the Smith 3-ply Finmeresco (about the same weight). The very lightest weight of Minnis Fresco is another option. Not as good as the others, IMO, but perhaps cooler wearing.

In my experience (albeit little), the light weight just don't make up all that well. The suit I got at A&S, I wear it often, but the back of it will just never look proper, the tailor said the fabric is too 'lively' (translate too light and soft).

From now on, I will always go with heavier fabric.

Concordia wrote:Prevailing religion on LL seems to discount the value of light weight suits, but in many cases they are a necessity.

A safe place to start looking is the Lesser 8-9oz tropical, and also the Smith 3-ply Finmeresco (about the same weight). The very lightest weight of Minnis Fresco is another option. Not as good as the others, IMO, but perhaps cooler wearing.

Agree with Concordia. What has worked for me is the defunct Rangoon bunch, linen and Solaro (Smith if I remember well). Thomas Mahon recommended a Holland & Sherry light weight, a double twist. I didn't try it though, because we got Piuma and Brisa cloth in the cloth club…

Cheers, David

Smith make a fantastic 8/9oz. My all time favorite garment is a blue 3 piece in 5535. Sheds wrinkles like a dream.

I would not, if it were me. Better to go with 10 ounce fresco, especially for solid blue or grey. Better drape, durability, and even cooler.

If I could make 16oz or heavier fabrics all year, I would be happy. They stand on their own and hide all of my mistakes!! That said, our job as tailors is to advise honestly and to work with fabrics down to 5 1/2oz at times.

So, all of the fabrics mentioned in this thread work. Some I would not call lightweight, but that's just me. But my go-to lightweight at the moment is Holland & Sherry's 7 1/2oz Cool Breeze. I have a suit from it myself. It's a high twist yarn and openly woven. This allows the air to circulate and the creases to drop out. Of course, being a lightweight it will still crease more than some of the heavier fabrics mentioned, but this cloth does work.

More and more I am finding that fabrics are not made in traditional mill countries. this fabric is one of these. However, whenever a bunch comes through my door I look through at the designs and feel the fabric for its tailoring qualities. If I do not think it will work, I send it back before anyone sees it. If I like and think it will work, then it stays.

Logsdail

Leonard Logsdail wrote:But my go-to lightweight at the moment is Holland & Sherry's 7 1/2oz Cool Breeze.

Thank you Mr Logsdail - this is the cloth Mr Mahon recommended as well.

I have a couple of suits from Smith's Gilt Edge, which I think comes in at about 8 ozs.

They wear beautifully, with little creasing. Cannot comment on longevity, as they are fairly recent, but good so far.

What about an 8 Ozs Wool/Mohair like Cape Breeze from Dugdale or Cape Kid from Harrison's? I have a suit made from Cape Breeze. It holds shape wonderfully, wears very cool and never creases.

Leonard Logsdail wrote:If I could make 16oz or heavier fabrics all year, I would be happy. They stand on their own and hide all of my mistakes!! That said, our job as tailors is to advise honestly and to work with fabrics down to 5 1/2oz at times.

So, all of the fabrics mentioned in this thread work. Some I would not call lightweight, but that's just me. But my go-to lightweight at the moment is Holland & Sherry's 7 1/2oz Cool Breeze. I have a suit from it myself. It's a high twist yarn and openly woven. This allows the air to circulate and the creases to drop out. Of course, being a lightweight it will still crease more than some of the heavier fabrics mentioned, but this cloth does work.

More and more I am finding that fabrics are not made in traditional mill countries. this fabric is one of these. However, whenever a bunch comes through my door I look through at the designs and feel the fabric for its tailoring qualities. If I do not think it will work, I send it back before anyone sees it. If I like and think it will work, then it stays.

Logsdail

Great insider advice here and very practical.

Personally for a californian weather, and considering it has to be used in spring/summer I would suggest the 3ply fresco open grain weave or a mohair suit

Some great stuff in the William Halstead explorer book - beautiful, crunchy wool/mohair blends.

Even when I work abroad I avoid very light weight suits. As always it depends on what your doing when you wear your suit. An interestin mix which i have settled on is wool and mohair. Always looks sharp and travels well.