The London Lounge

Here is something which the members may find interesting...

I was looking at this piece of fabric after pulling it out of storage:



I have had it since I was a student, and it was given to me by my grandfather, who had had it for several years before that. It was in turn given to him by one of his friends, who was a fabric designer. The story I have received is that the cloth is Irish, but that might not be correct. The gentleman who originally gave it to my grandfather worked with Irish mills, but my grandfather and the gentleman in question both lived their whole lives in West Yorkshire, so it could just as easily be from West Yorkshire. There is no writing in the selvedge.

It weighs about 450g/m, and I have four metres. When I was first given it, I showed it to a couple of tailors, and I remember one of them excitedly told me it was a 'twist worsted'. I think I have seen what appear to be similar cloths under the name 'country twist'.

At the time I was given it, I felt it was a bit of an oddity, not really suitable for the business suit I needed at the time. However, with the passage of time, I think it is a great piece of cloth, and think it could make a fantastic comfortable slightly informal suit. It is good solid cloth, though not hard, almost like a fine tweed in texture.

Distinctive for sure...in a suit it would be off the beaten path, but also tastefully adventurous.

Mr Hillier wrote:Here is something which the members may find interesting...



I have had it since I was a student, and it was given to me by my grandfather, who had had it for several years before that. It was in turn given to him by one of his friends, who was a fabric designer. The story I have received is that the cloth is Irish, but that might not be correct. The gentleman who originally gave it to my grandfather worked with Irish mills, but my grandfather and the gentleman in question both lived their whole lives in West Yorkshire, so it could just as easily be from West Yorkshire. There is no writing in the selvedge.

Given the timescale its possible, there were worsted weavers in Ireland at the time. Places like Convoy Woollen Mills and Dunloe. I've heard it called Huddersfield Twist as well. Well wear!

cathach wrote:Given the timescale its possible, there were worsted weavers in Ireland at the time. Places like Convoy Woollen Mills and Dunloe. I've heard it called Huddersfield Twist as well. Well wear!

Dear Cathach,

This cloth is no younger than 30 years old, quite possibly older. It is interesting that it may be Irish. Do you know whether the Irish worsted was well thought of?

Regards,

Mr Hillier

Mr Hillier wrote:
This cloth is no younger than 30 years old, quite possibly older. It is interesting that it may be Irish. Do you know whether the Irish worsted was well thought of?

I have an overcoat in an Irish-made worsted my father bought in 1968, that I wear often. No complaints from me, I doubt I'll look as good as it in forty years.

It looks more 50s/60s to me. Certainly from the days before men's suits became standardized to a few shades of blue or gray and fewer than a dozen patterns. Looking at the illustrations Minh has been posting from the 1930s, you see a broad range of what we would now consider "loud" patterns that were actually worn for business and have steadily died out.

jb wrote:It looks more 50s/60s to me. Certainly from the days before men's suits became standardized to a few shades of blue or gray and fewer than a dozen patterns. Looking at the illustrations Minh has been posting from the 1930s, you see a broad range of what we would now consider "loud" patterns that were actually worn for business and have steadily died out.

Dear jb,

Thanks for your views. The only thing I personally know for sure about the age of this fabric is that it is at least 30 years old. It certainly does have a very 'old school' feel and appearance.

Minh's pictures are great; with this cloth, I picture an ever-so-slightly country-style two piece with a blue Fair Isle tank top. Sadly I think the amount of cloth is touch-and-go for a three-piece, certainly if I want a high waist and chunky turn-ups on the trousers.

Regards,

Mr Hillier

If the waist is high enough, you should have unlimited options with sleeveless sweaters-- not an inappropriate accompaniment in any case.

Mr Hillier wrote:Sadly I think the amount of cloth is touch-and-go for a three-piece, certainly if I want a high waist and chunky turn-ups on the trousers.
Mr Hillier

Dear Mr Hillier,

talk to your tailor about the waistcoat. You need 3,5m for a 2-pce suit and you have 4m. He might need to bite his finger nails a bit, but don't worry re high waist and turn-ups. Tailors sometimes make wonders come true..

Cheers, David

davidhuh wrote:

Mr Hillier wrote:Sadly I think the amount of cloth is touch-and-go for a three-piece, certainly if I want a high waist and chunky turn-ups on the trousers.
Mr Hillier

Dear Mr Hillier,

talk to your tailor about the waistcoat. You need 3,5m for a 2-pce suit and you have 4m. He might need to bite his finger nails a bit, but don't worry re high waist and turn-ups. Tailors sometimes make wonders come true..

Cheers, David

Dear David,

I am ruling nothing out at this stage, and I'm remaining optimistic! This is a suit for pleasure not for business, so I can take my time with it. At least there is no check on this cloth...