Of grocers and tailors...
Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 2:10 pm
A trip to the grocers with my elderly mother today put me in the mind of a singular aspect of tailoring ...
One element of bespoke that had puzzled me for a while was the purported need to get garments fitting precisely by micro adjustment at repeated fittings. I know that I change shape over relatively short periods so by that process could undo all the 'benefit' of having clothing fit to the nearest millimetre.
I now appreciate (I think) that 'fit' in the eye of a good tailor is more complex than that : indeed, it's perhaps what distinguishes bespoke from MTM. A good tailor will have in mind how a client stands, moves, relaxes. In building that design element into a garment, the effect is transformative - a well fitting coat will look good when the wearer is seated, and will settle to an appropriate drape when he stands up, without too much help. Contrast this with even a well-designed RTW coat which really needs unbuttoning before sitting and rebuttoning when standing up (at least it keeps your hands busy...)
What - you might rightly ask - has the grocers got to do with anything? Well, in my case, I get the chance some weekends to take the Aged M to do her shopping. Her preferred food retailer is very popular in her neighbourhood with a large number of (some very) elderly folk - who see the Saturday morning outing as a social event as much as anything. Among the regulars had been a most distinguished looking gentleman quite possibly well into his 80's, over 6 feet tall, with a neatly trimmed beard and, in every season, immaculate suits and sports jackets all bearing the hallmarks of excellent tailoring. Despite his advanced years, he was not particularly stooped, but one matter was quite evident, namely, that he carried less weight than he had done in younger days when, I would guess, his clothes were acquired.
Despite the change in size, the garments retained a remarkable shape - in fact they seemed in some respect to suit him very well indeed despite his shrinkage : the creases of a characterful face seemed matched by the folds of the fabric and his stature seemed well complimented by the timeless cut of his suits.
Why today? Not having seen him for a while I asked the shop manager if he'd seen the gentleman. I din't know his name, but the manager knew immediately who I meant - It seems he's not been in for several months. I do hope he's still with us, not the least as a sartorial exemplar of the (very) long term benefits of decent tailoring. If you can make a suit last 40 years, you'll surely get your money's worth.
One element of bespoke that had puzzled me for a while was the purported need to get garments fitting precisely by micro adjustment at repeated fittings. I know that I change shape over relatively short periods so by that process could undo all the 'benefit' of having clothing fit to the nearest millimetre.
I now appreciate (I think) that 'fit' in the eye of a good tailor is more complex than that : indeed, it's perhaps what distinguishes bespoke from MTM. A good tailor will have in mind how a client stands, moves, relaxes. In building that design element into a garment, the effect is transformative - a well fitting coat will look good when the wearer is seated, and will settle to an appropriate drape when he stands up, without too much help. Contrast this with even a well-designed RTW coat which really needs unbuttoning before sitting and rebuttoning when standing up (at least it keeps your hands busy...)
What - you might rightly ask - has the grocers got to do with anything? Well, in my case, I get the chance some weekends to take the Aged M to do her shopping. Her preferred food retailer is very popular in her neighbourhood with a large number of (some very) elderly folk - who see the Saturday morning outing as a social event as much as anything. Among the regulars had been a most distinguished looking gentleman quite possibly well into his 80's, over 6 feet tall, with a neatly trimmed beard and, in every season, immaculate suits and sports jackets all bearing the hallmarks of excellent tailoring. Despite his advanced years, he was not particularly stooped, but one matter was quite evident, namely, that he carried less weight than he had done in younger days when, I would guess, his clothes were acquired.
Despite the change in size, the garments retained a remarkable shape - in fact they seemed in some respect to suit him very well indeed despite his shrinkage : the creases of a characterful face seemed matched by the folds of the fabric and his stature seemed well complimented by the timeless cut of his suits.
Why today? Not having seen him for a while I asked the shop manager if he'd seen the gentleman. I din't know his name, but the manager knew immediately who I meant - It seems he's not been in for several months. I do hope he's still with us, not the least as a sartorial exemplar of the (very) long term benefits of decent tailoring. If you can make a suit last 40 years, you'll surely get your money's worth.