Hello everyone,
My name's Bijan and I'm a fledgling in the sartorial world. I suppose like many I have a similar story in that I suffered ill fitting suits and jackets until I reached a point in my life where the opportunity and indulgence of having tailored clothes was something I could enjoy without the thought of 'either the kids eat or I look good...'.
Anyway, after a fair amount of research online and being honest with my own preferences I came upon what I was looking for most - a Saville Row trained tailor near(ish) to me (I live in PA, USA) and that happened to be Rory Duffy. After reading a lot of the debate of what's true bespoke as opposed to hand-made, as opposed to outsourced, as opposed to benchmade and all variations, combinations and permutations imaginable I really had no idea what questions to ask. All I wanted was some suits made by someone with a Saville Row pedigree.
Rory helped shed more than a little light on what the terms meant and how they applied to him and his options. He guided me to what areas I should consider in my suits and gave honest feedback in terms of whether some of my 'tastes/guesses' were going to work in my favor or not. It was a learning experience and I'm grateful for the time he spent with me. Satisfied and assured that one of my prejudices (NOTHING goes to China) was met I went ahead and ordered 3 Bespoke (by Rory's definition) suits. I am truly excited. After seeing some of what Rory is making for existing clients and seeing the famous frock coat that won him the Golden Shears, I'm giddier than I have been over something other than my kids in a long time!
What I'm looking forward to in particular (aside the obvious) is the experience of wearing braces for the first time. Rory's house style seems to be old school in that he likes vintage styles with his own twist of course. My first preference was for trousers that had side adjusters and rode on the hips in much the modern way (I knew that belt loops are a no-go and was frankly happy to see the last of them) but he showed me how truly comfortable suspended trousers were. It was here that we had to compromise - I could not see myself wearing the type of high backed, above-the belly-button trousers he had on. It's not that it didn't look good, but I work in a conservative field with people who are not known for their open-minds and so we compromised with the idea of toned-down version of his style. I would describe it but I don't want to use terms that are wrong. If anyone's interested I'll ask him again and report back.
I don't presume to bring anything to light that many here don't already know about clothing, but for any other first-timers who want guidance/education as part of the experience then I'd recommend Rory. As I explained to him in my first email, "what I know about style could be writ in large on the back of a postage stamp".
So, here are the details and if anyone is interested, I'd be happy to update when I have my first fitting in September.
2 Single Breasted suits in Charles Clayton Cashmere/Wool blend a solid mid-gray and a rich Navy blue . I was worried about getting hot in this flannel type of material (although they are gorgeous) but he suggested a 'buggy lining' that would reduce the heat capture of the jacket.
1 Double Breasted suit in Harrison Glen Plaid with a faint blue 'window'.
All suits will have ticket pockets (the single breasts without flaps) and internal poacher pockets that will be useful for passports/boarding passes/Amtrak tickets. I'm fond of the style of slanted pockets and so they will feature also.
So that's it! Looking forward to learning more and am already gathering information for my next item - a sport coat for 'casual Fridays'.
First foray into tailored clothing
Bijan,
Anyone who takes an interest & some pleasure in ensuring their dress looks 'decent' get a tip of the hat from me - whether it be deciding to have some alterations done to a RTW suit or going the whole hog & ordering a bespoke garment. You of course have jumped firmly into the latter camp & as well as striding out in a what should be a well fitting suit or jacket you'll also discover the satisfaction of working with craftsman to end up with something made just for you - this is a lasting pleasure which should not be underestimated.
I'll look forward to seeing what you end up with, especially when you get into the really interesting world of 'sports coats'
Regards
Russell
Anyone who takes an interest & some pleasure in ensuring their dress looks 'decent' get a tip of the hat from me - whether it be deciding to have some alterations done to a RTW suit or going the whole hog & ordering a bespoke garment. You of course have jumped firmly into the latter camp & as well as striding out in a what should be a well fitting suit or jacket you'll also discover the satisfaction of working with craftsman to end up with something made just for you - this is a lasting pleasure which should not be underestimated.
I'll look forward to seeing what you end up with, especially when you get into the really interesting world of 'sports coats'
Regards
Russell
It will be good to follow your progress in photos, what other detailing have you decided?
Russell - Thank you for the encouraging words and you're spot on, the process is proving very enjoyable and is adding an unexpectedly deeper dimension to the suits being 'mine'.
I have to ask, what is it about sport coats that I should look out for? As I was going through the cloth choices with Rory I noticed a tweed book and couldn't resist a look. I saw something my wife would like very much for herself and more than one pattern that I've already started to covet...
DFR - I will post pictures of the process starting with the fittings if Rory's ok with it (I imagine he would be given all the technical pictures on his site). As to style details here's what I have from memory, I'm starting to realize I should have noted these down but will get a detailed list from Rory.
Shoulders - classic English style with the straight drop and I would say 'roped'. I wanted a commanding silhouette as I'm often the 'first man through the door' with clients and so the first impression is all important.
Drape - Rory felt I didn't need as much drape in the chest as I suspected. He said the jacket would certainly be comfortable for meetings/dinners and presentations while having his signature structure.
Lapel shape - I like peaked lapels so they feature on the suits. On the single breasted I asked for the lapel roll to slightly obscure the top button. I noticed that Rory does this anyway and the roll on a jacket he had on a dummy was wonderful to see. Such an elegant feature IMHO.
Trousers - I wanted a 'firm' almost military appearance in them. I wanted to seem definitive as opposed to the baggy/boxy look of many suits without getting into those skinny leggings suits that I've seen. I've got thicker than average legs from rugby and weights and so I think here Rory has his work cut out for him.. On the breaks he's giving me a soft break. There will be turn ups on the double breasted.
Vents - nearly forgot, double vents all round on his suggestion. I didn't have a view either way so long as it confirmed to my desired overall effect. He said they would hug my hips and flow down rather than flare. The dressed dummy he had showed what he meant and it looked great.
That's what I have off the top of my head.
I have to ask, what is it about sport coats that I should look out for? As I was going through the cloth choices with Rory I noticed a tweed book and couldn't resist a look. I saw something my wife would like very much for herself and more than one pattern that I've already started to covet...
DFR - I will post pictures of the process starting with the fittings if Rory's ok with it (I imagine he would be given all the technical pictures on his site). As to style details here's what I have from memory, I'm starting to realize I should have noted these down but will get a detailed list from Rory.
Shoulders - classic English style with the straight drop and I would say 'roped'. I wanted a commanding silhouette as I'm often the 'first man through the door' with clients and so the first impression is all important.
Drape - Rory felt I didn't need as much drape in the chest as I suspected. He said the jacket would certainly be comfortable for meetings/dinners and presentations while having his signature structure.
Lapel shape - I like peaked lapels so they feature on the suits. On the single breasted I asked for the lapel roll to slightly obscure the top button. I noticed that Rory does this anyway and the roll on a jacket he had on a dummy was wonderful to see. Such an elegant feature IMHO.
Trousers - I wanted a 'firm' almost military appearance in them. I wanted to seem definitive as opposed to the baggy/boxy look of many suits without getting into those skinny leggings suits that I've seen. I've got thicker than average legs from rugby and weights and so I think here Rory has his work cut out for him.. On the breaks he's giving me a soft break. There will be turn ups on the double breasted.
Vents - nearly forgot, double vents all round on his suggestion. I didn't have a view either way so long as it confirmed to my desired overall effect. He said they would hug my hips and flow down rather than flare. The dressed dummy he had showed what he meant and it looked great.
That's what I have off the top of my head.
Your sports coats will be what you make of them - which is part of their attraction.BAO wrote:Russell - Thank you for the encouraging words and you're spot on, the process is proving very enjoyable and is adding an unexpectedly deeper dimension to the suits being 'mine'.
I have to ask, what is it about sport coats that I should look out for? As I was going through the cloth choices with Rory I noticed a tweed book and couldn't resist a look. I saw something my wife would like very much for herself and more than one pattern that I've already started to covet...
I don't wish to put forward any of my own preferences but in general especially for a first one with your new tailor I'd suggest keeping it simple & avoiding any 'extras' & consider softer shoulders than your business wear.
Have a look at the details - or relative lack of them- on this one (diplomatically chosen - i.e. our host). As regards cut & style it's a very fine example to bear in mind.
Beware though, I've seen chaps like yourself dabble a bit with worsted fabrics on the pretence of business use but then they start fingering the tweeds & linens - 'just looking' of course. Next it's examining cloth books at home - hiding them from loved ones - before you know they are on the hard stuff - i.e. subscriptions to the London Lounge Cloth Club. I've heard there is therapy available but it rarely seems to work.
Regards
Russell
Rory seems to have some nice things on his website. Hope it all goes well for you.
The angle of that hat is priceless. To my eye it has flair but is as masculine as any man could want.
I see what you mean about not replicating work design into sport coats. I have to decide if I truly want a sport coat or a work coat in a tweed cloth for so-called dressed down days or business casual environments. I guess that means in effect TWO coats.... (cue maniacal laughter).
I see what you mean about not replicating work design into sport coats. I have to decide if I truly want a sport coat or a work coat in a tweed cloth for so-called dressed down days or business casual environments. I guess that means in effect TWO coats.... (cue maniacal laughter).
Thank you, I was hesitant at first given the amount of money involved but after having seen some of his finished items and understanding better the actual process involved I was very happy to proceed.Concordia wrote:Rory seems to have some nice things on his website. Hope it all goes well for you.
I actually think his website is slightly too technical and not enough 'finished product' photos with layman explanations of what he's done as a tailor. In person he's very easy to talk to and he takes the time to explain things but I admit, from just the photos of his works in progress I was a little wary of being too inexperienced to have a meaningful discussion of what I wanted or hoped to have.
I work in a sales function/Subject Matter Expert on the IT side of banking and it's all too easy to stay in the jargon of my profession but I feel deeper connections can be achieved with more clients beyond just IT folks when complex solutions are explained from the perspective of the desired outcome/benefit rather than the bowels of the solutions - unless the client wants to get technical that is.
Well, I had my first fitting with Rory yesterday and I'm very happy with my decision to go with him. Of course there were adjustments that needed to be made and decisions made on styles but as promised, Rory let me have a high degree of freedom to ask for things. What I was most nervous about to be honest was the trousers. Here Rory has a bias towards what I would call traditional styles and it probably reflects his training as a classic tailor rather than a cutter-cum-tailor etc who perhaps would be more laissez-faire towards style. Rory has a strong sense of house style and his style for coats is nearly a perfect match of what I wanted from the get go but the trousers...
The trousers are made for braces, no loops or internal fasteners. I'd never worn braces and had always thought them to be dead or the vestige of old men but given that Rory always wears his own clothes and he had braces on every time I saw him I figured the way he does it was pretty good and I'd give it a go with a promise he'd compromise the high backed style down a bit. I barely felt they were there. They draped wonderfully and aside from a needed lengthening and a taking in of the waste (I had lost weight, I'd told Rory this would happen and would need to be factored in) they looked wonderful. Here's a funny detail. I had to literally debate with him to let me see my self in the mirror. He didn't want me to see it until the final fitting or when it was all done. Wasn't going to happen..!
I had read a lot - here and elsewhere - about the london drape in the chest and the various styles of shoulders. I had assumed that because I'm broad shouldered and above average in musculature in the back/traps that I wouldn't go for the classic English shoulder but perhaps an Italian or American shoulder. When I saw how Rory had done the padding (layered cloth and hand made) I knew his decision was the right one. Although there was too much tightness in the back of the shoulder and across the front, the line from my neck was perfect. Or at least it was until Rory ripped off the sleeves to do them again... The coats had a very nice swell in the chest to my eyes but Rory fussed about some extra fold that he didn't like and so it was marked with his chalk.
I guess I'm gushing, of course I am. This is a whole new experience for me and I'm finding it exciting. It was pleasure to notice how Rory went about marking points of attention with his chalk, putting in pins and looking at me like a doctor would a patient. I can't wait for the second fitting. I only saw two of my three suits as there was a delay in getting the third cloth - a dark POW with a faint blue window for the DB - but the two cloths from Charles Clayton Superflannel were stunning. They caught the light just right to give the suit a faint sheen but remaining professional and conservative - another suggestion from the Master Tailor.
I've promised Rory a new commission to make my wife a tweed coat for the winter and another two suits in the spring of '14. I think my mid-life crisis is going to see me very well dressed if not in a Porsche or on the back of a Harley...
It's perhaps premature to say but I'm grateful for this site as most of what I have learnt about bespoke (that has proven useful) has been from here or references stated here.
Russell - the cloth addiction is well underway. I now split my idle time between looking at hunting paraphernalia (the season for deer has opened) and tweed fabrics... I may become the only man in the United States to bow hunt in a bespoke tweed outfit...
The trousers are made for braces, no loops or internal fasteners. I'd never worn braces and had always thought them to be dead or the vestige of old men but given that Rory always wears his own clothes and he had braces on every time I saw him I figured the way he does it was pretty good and I'd give it a go with a promise he'd compromise the high backed style down a bit. I barely felt they were there. They draped wonderfully and aside from a needed lengthening and a taking in of the waste (I had lost weight, I'd told Rory this would happen and would need to be factored in) they looked wonderful. Here's a funny detail. I had to literally debate with him to let me see my self in the mirror. He didn't want me to see it until the final fitting or when it was all done. Wasn't going to happen..!
I had read a lot - here and elsewhere - about the london drape in the chest and the various styles of shoulders. I had assumed that because I'm broad shouldered and above average in musculature in the back/traps that I wouldn't go for the classic English shoulder but perhaps an Italian or American shoulder. When I saw how Rory had done the padding (layered cloth and hand made) I knew his decision was the right one. Although there was too much tightness in the back of the shoulder and across the front, the line from my neck was perfect. Or at least it was until Rory ripped off the sleeves to do them again... The coats had a very nice swell in the chest to my eyes but Rory fussed about some extra fold that he didn't like and so it was marked with his chalk.
I guess I'm gushing, of course I am. This is a whole new experience for me and I'm finding it exciting. It was pleasure to notice how Rory went about marking points of attention with his chalk, putting in pins and looking at me like a doctor would a patient. I can't wait for the second fitting. I only saw two of my three suits as there was a delay in getting the third cloth - a dark POW with a faint blue window for the DB - but the two cloths from Charles Clayton Superflannel were stunning. They caught the light just right to give the suit a faint sheen but remaining professional and conservative - another suggestion from the Master Tailor.
I've promised Rory a new commission to make my wife a tweed coat for the winter and another two suits in the spring of '14. I think my mid-life crisis is going to see me very well dressed if not in a Porsche or on the back of a Harley...
It's perhaps premature to say but I'm grateful for this site as most of what I have learnt about bespoke (that has proven useful) has been from here or references stated here.
Russell - the cloth addiction is well underway. I now split my idle time between looking at hunting paraphernalia (the season for deer has opened) and tweed fabrics... I may become the only man in the United States to bow hunt in a bespoke tweed outfit...
I am increasingly having braces on all my suits. They are supremely comfortable and one can stand up and they hang perfectly without any adjustment. Braced trousers always hang better and their stuffy image is definitely a backward move in the style stakes.
Very well done BAO,
You have certainly jumped in at the deep end, which is very brave of you.
The usual advice given when looking for a new tailor is to get something made; get the fit etc. perfected, and when thats all sorted and you are happy, go again.
I am sure these will all be perfect for you, but it does usually take some time to get all the details right.
It is a big investment on your part, and I wish you the very best of luck with it and we all look forward to seeing the results.
You have certainly jumped in at the deep end, which is very brave of you.
The usual advice given when looking for a new tailor is to get something made; get the fit etc. perfected, and when thats all sorted and you are happy, go again.
I am sure these will all be perfect for you, but it does usually take some time to get all the details right.
It is a big investment on your part, and I wish you the very best of luck with it and we all look forward to seeing the results.
Thank you SMCK
I know my approach was unconventional but it was borne more of necessity than anything else. Plus I felt confident in Rory and so rolled the dice. I just saw some videos of Rory making a coat on another forum. I've never seen him actually tailor and I'm even more pleased with my luck. I'll push him to allow photos to be taken when I go for the second fitting. Hopefully he'll agree.
Cheers
I know my approach was unconventional but it was borne more of necessity than anything else. Plus I felt confident in Rory and so rolled the dice. I just saw some videos of Rory making a coat on another forum. I've never seen him actually tailor and I'm even more pleased with my luck. I'll push him to allow photos to be taken when I go for the second fitting. Hopefully he'll agree.
Cheers
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