The London Lounge

I am planning on getting a tartan dinner jacket made up. It will be shawl collar/lapel, one button, etc. My question is whether there is any sartorial or historical basis for having either (1) black grossgrain/satin lapels versus (2) self-faced lapels (i.e. of the same fabric as the rest of the jacket. Thoughts?

bertie

HERE some basic information.

Grossgrain lapels might offer a good contrast to a particularly loud tartan - and save those around you from damaged retinas. Quilted black lapels might look especially fine too, albeit verging on the dressing gown effect.

Be sure to choose an unusual tartan that appeals to your aesthetic and do not be cowed by suggestions that you should not wear a tartan "to which you are not entitled". The creation of Scottish traditional dress was one of the more fecund areas of Victorian invention - the colours and patterns involved are quite random. (Estate Tweeds are, however, another matter).

Will you be having trousers (or trews as the scots insist on calling them) in matching - or, indeed, clashing - check?

I was thinking in terms of following the Duke of Windsor's lead on this :



Do promise you'll post pics of the outcome.

Melcombe wrote: Will you be having trousers (or trews as the scots insist on calling them) in matching - or, indeed, clashing - check?

Dear Melcombe,
are you really encouraging the idea of wearing trousers in a clashing check? Maybe you have something to show us but the last time I saw this look was at Barnum & Bailey.

Thank you for the replies. I had looked at the Black Tie Guide site before but must have missed that page - thank you for reminding me.

I have a regular tuxedo getup and was planning on using the pants, cummberbund, etc so the look was generally traditional but with a bit of flair. My wife an I have season's tickets to the opera but I find that the regular tuxedo just makes me feel overdressed. Normally I just wear a dark suit, white shirt and satin tie but I wanted to have a little more fun with my clothes. I also have reason to attend holiday parties where, again, the tuxedo would be overkill.

I really like the idea of the quilting - that would reduce the formality.

bertie

re: clashing (or even matching) pants - as I said - I'll probably just stick with black.

hectorm wrote:

Melcombe wrote: Will you be having trousers (or trews as the scots insist on calling them) in matching - or, indeed, clashing - check?

Dear Melcombe,
are you really encouraging the idea of wearing trousers in a clashing check? Maybe you have something to show us but the last time I saw this look was at Barnum & Bailey.

As stylistic gambits go, it might indeed be a difficult look to pull off. That bit of hyperbole might just have got the bit between its teeth.

bertie wrote:re: clashing (or even matching) pants - as I said - I'll probably just stick with black.

It sounds more sensible indeed.
By the way, is this a family tartan?
Have you thought of wearing a black DJ with tartan trousers? I believe nowadays it´s an acceptable substitution for the kilt, if you want to wear your colors.

My family is Lithuanian so traditional tartan is "flexible". I actually like the idea of tartan trousers. I'm having a suit made of black watch and could use the trousers with my black DJ. Thank you for the suggestion - it 's very creative.

I'm toying with the idea of getting a summer-weight sport coat made from tartan-- as an alternative to Madras.

This is the pattern:
http://www.scotweb.co.uk/tartan/Fermana ... nty/461486

A different shot, looking much more "tartan-y":

http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartan ... x?ref=1171

or an expensive mid-weight alternative:

http://www.scotweb.co.uk/tartan/Fermanagh-1990/55997