The London Lounge

If the revers on a formal coat is grosgrain, is there any particular reason to make the rest of the lining satin, rather than grosgrain?

A mix of custom and comfort. Custom would normally see satin and comfort demands satin.

If, however, you are bespeaking the garment it is your choice.

Noble Savage wrote:If the revers on a formal coat is grosgrain, is there any particular reason to make the rest of the lining satin, rather than grosgrain?

In general you use smoother lining fabrics like satin finishes (and Silk twill/Silk habotai/Silk crepe de satin) so that there is less friction between layers, and so that it slips on/off easier.

Since grosgrain is a finely corded fabric it will have more friction. A smoother fabric will lie better as an interior layer. If you don't want the flashy sheen of satin you could go for a plain weave silk with less lustre (e.g. habotai), but there is a reasoning behing the use of the satin weave.

lxlloyd wrote: Since grosgrain is a finely corded fabric it will have more friction. A smoother fabric will lie better as an interior layer. If you don't want the flashy sheen of satin you could go for a plain weave silk with less lustre (e.g. habotai), but there is a reasoning behing the use of the satin weave.

Excellent explanation. Thank you. I'll go with the satin.

Beware as well that silk will wear quite hot, so a silk satin may not be the best choice. A satin weave in a bemberg or acetate is the standard for linings as a result.

Lear Browne and Dunsford T3xx range is ideal 160gms in viscose rayon. Wears both comfortably and well.

cathach wrote:Beware as well that silk will wear quite hot, so a silk satin may not be the best choice. A satin weave in a bemberg or acetate is the standard for linings as a result.

I tend to use habotai because it wears much cooler than satin and is less prone to snagging, whilst remaining smooth enough to fulfill the lining's role.

DFR wrote:Lear Browne and Dunsford T3xx range is ideal 160gms in viscose rayon. Wears both comfortably and well.

Viscose is made from wood pulp and is only semi synthetic, given that they it from natural fibres that are then pulped (so aren't fully synthetic). They (Tencel/lyocell) can then spin the pulp into new fibre of lengths that imitate anything trom the long fibres of silk to wool or cotton. (the cellulose structure is very close to cotton.... it's basically making silk out of cotton... taking a bit of the advantage from both sides). That explains why it wears comfortably... chemically it is very similar to cotton, but they can make the fibres smoother, like combed silk.

Modal/(viscose) Rayon both have the breathability and drape of natural fibres, and are better for the environment than, say, cotton, although they still take up a lot of water. However, they don't take washing very well (But that shouldn't be a problem in the lining of a formal coat).

Good quality viscose can be just as expensive as silk though, given that the fabric is completely monopolised by one patent holder.