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Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 10:25 pm
by Screaminmarlon
I recently paid a visit to my local fabrics shop, just to say 'hi' or so I said to myself.
After a brief chat, I couldn't help to ask if there was any oldies I had not seen previously.
In the end, I went back home with a lenght of a lovely saxony made in Scotland and distributed by merchant Gagniere. I must confess: very little I know about this merchant, but I really liked what I felt with my hands and the colours I saw.
It's a micro houndstooth in black and white (light gray from a few feet) with a light blue windowpane, weight is about 17oz.
Does anybody know anything about this merchant (not in the business anymore, I gather) or have any experience?
Thanks in advance
Saluti
M.

P.s.: I found this http://www.englishheritagearchives.org. ... &page=1604

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:58 am
by Manself
I'm afraid I can't help you with any information about Gagniere, but I would love to see a shot of the fabric.

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:39 am
by Screaminmarlon
Good point :) my bad.
I'll try to have a decent pic this evening and post it.
Saluti

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:26 pm
by alden
A. Gagnaire was an independent mill and distributor that principally served markets on the Continent, namely France and Italy. The company was trading up to a few years ago but was eventually absorbed into Holland & Sherry.

If you find some vintage Gagnaire in heavy weights, they can be very nice as the mill was a quality not quantity maker.

Cheers

Michael

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 2:28 pm
by Screaminmarlon
Many thanks Michael,
that's interesting: If one then thinks about what Holland and Sherry became in recent years :(

I fell for texture, colours and hand of this fabric. Hope the pic I'll manage to have would be good enough.
Saluti

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:54 am
by Screaminmarlon

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:27 am
by old henry
looks like a great find to me. Beautiful.

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:17 pm
by Screaminmarlon
Thank you, Old Henry. It'd be a nice 3b SB :)

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:31 pm
by old henry
Yes, softly tailored to let the cloth be. No "statements" with this cloth. Hi armhole, trim sleeve of course. Natural non extended shoulder, subtle rope. roll 1" above the button, ample lapel to carry the window-pane,.. pockets ??? not jetted. Too slick for these goods.. Breast flap is good. Pants ??High rise-hollywood waist. suspenders. keep it clean and simple. Its all about the cloth. Breast flap keeps it in the country. or patch pkts will work

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:00 pm
by Screaminmarlon
Wow :shock: That's it :D
I'm leaning towards patch for the hips (not for breast pocket).

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:25 am
by old henry
Either patch or flap. Not a mish mash
Were it me I would get patch. Breast also.
Match the plaids so you can hardly see the patch.
simple, soft, subtle, easy, uncontrived.
Let the cloth be.
I would go very old world on the inside.

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:48 pm
by Gianfrancesco
Nice piece of cloth, bello!
I would keep it simple too as old henry says.. this would be a very nice jacket for a nice spezzato.
Either patched or cut with flaps would work well, maybe I will not go for breast flaps, but that is your choice.
Linings you could choose a nice point of blue, the old "blu carta da zucchero" (blue sugar paper) would be perfect I think.
I can almost see this jacket finished :)

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:53 pm
by Screaminmarlon
Thanks for your kind words and advice, Gianfrancesco :)
P.s.: suspect I have a lenght of a similar Donegal to yours, a majestic LL cloth, to be made as a Polo/Ulster too. Looking at your pics I thought: What a coincidence!

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:36 pm
by Gianfrancesco
That kind of Donegal is perfect for the ulster coat indeed. The ulster coat is a must in a lifetime.. if you desire, send me an email and we will talk about your Ulster idea.
Did you already commissioned the Saxony cloth?that would be a perfect sport jacket to match with a flannel or knickerbocker trouser or a dark blue raw denim too.

Re: Gagniere saxony cloth

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:54 pm
by Screaminmarlon
Buonasera Gianfrancesco,
the LL iteration of the Donny is superb, I brought it recently to the taylor but I don't know when we'll have it completed, we usually take our time :D
I like the anticipation very much, the process of the coat being made the best, then I eagerly wait for the coat to be vissuto, and it usually take a few years.
About the saxony: I don't know which cloth will be next (I've accumulated more cloth than I can justify... to others :D ), but it'd be a pleasure to have a look at your work and say Hello.
Saluti
M.