Gagniere saxony cloth

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Tue Jan 15, 2013 10:25 pm

I recently paid a visit to my local fabrics shop, just to say 'hi' or so I said to myself.
After a brief chat, I couldn't help to ask if there was any oldies I had not seen previously.
In the end, I went back home with a lenght of a lovely saxony made in Scotland and distributed by merchant Gagniere. I must confess: very little I know about this merchant, but I really liked what I felt with my hands and the colours I saw.
It's a micro houndstooth in black and white (light gray from a few feet) with a light blue windowpane, weight is about 17oz.
Does anybody know anything about this merchant (not in the business anymore, I gather) or have any experience?
Thanks in advance
Saluti
M.

P.s.: I found this http://www.englishheritagearchives.org. ... &page=1604
Manself
Posts: 313
Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:58 pm
Location: Scotland
Contact:

Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:58 am

I'm afraid I can't help you with any information about Gagniere, but I would love to see a shot of the fabric.
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:39 am

Good point :) my bad.
I'll try to have a decent pic this evening and post it.
Saluti
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:26 pm

A. Gagnaire was an independent mill and distributor that principally served markets on the Continent, namely France and Italy. The company was trading up to a few years ago but was eventually absorbed into Holland & Sherry.

If you find some vintage Gagnaire in heavy weights, they can be very nice as the mill was a quality not quantity maker.

Cheers

Michael
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Thu Jan 17, 2013 2:28 pm

Many thanks Michael,
that's interesting: If one then thinks about what Holland and Sherry became in recent years :(

I fell for texture, colours and hand of this fabric. Hope the pic I'll manage to have would be good enough.
Saluti
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
Contact:

Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:27 am

looks like a great find to me. Beautiful.
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:17 pm

Thank you, Old Henry. It'd be a nice 3b SB :)
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
Contact:

Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:31 pm

Yes, softly tailored to let the cloth be. No "statements" with this cloth. Hi armhole, trim sleeve of course. Natural non extended shoulder, subtle rope. roll 1" above the button, ample lapel to carry the window-pane,.. pockets ??? not jetted. Too slick for these goods.. Breast flap is good. Pants ??High rise-hollywood waist. suspenders. keep it clean and simple. Its all about the cloth. Breast flap keeps it in the country. or patch pkts will work
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:00 pm

Wow :shock: That's it :D
I'm leaning towards patch for the hips (not for breast pocket).
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
Contact:

Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:25 am

Either patch or flap. Not a mish mash
Were it me I would get patch. Breast also.
Match the plaids so you can hardly see the patch.
simple, soft, subtle, easy, uncontrived.
Let the cloth be.
I would go very old world on the inside.
Gianfrancesco
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:48 pm
Contact:

Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:48 pm

Nice piece of cloth, bello!
I would keep it simple too as old henry says.. this would be a very nice jacket for a nice spezzato.
Either patched or cut with flaps would work well, maybe I will not go for breast flaps, but that is your choice.
Linings you could choose a nice point of blue, the old "blu carta da zucchero" (blue sugar paper) would be perfect I think.
I can almost see this jacket finished :)
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:53 pm

Thanks for your kind words and advice, Gianfrancesco :)
P.s.: suspect I have a lenght of a similar Donegal to yours, a majestic LL cloth, to be made as a Polo/Ulster too. Looking at your pics I thought: What a coincidence!
Gianfrancesco
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:48 pm
Contact:

Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:36 pm

That kind of Donegal is perfect for the ulster coat indeed. The ulster coat is a must in a lifetime.. if you desire, send me an email and we will talk about your Ulster idea.
Did you already commissioned the Saxony cloth?that would be a perfect sport jacket to match with a flannel or knickerbocker trouser or a dark blue raw denim too.
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:54 pm

Buonasera Gianfrancesco,
the LL iteration of the Donny is superb, I brought it recently to the taylor but I don't know when we'll have it completed, we usually take our time :D
I like the anticipation very much, the process of the coat being made the best, then I eagerly wait for the coat to be vissuto, and it usually take a few years.
About the saxony: I don't know which cloth will be next (I've accumulated more cloth than I can justify... to others :D ), but it'd be a pleasure to have a look at your work and say Hello.
Saluti
M.
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests