The London Lounge

Hello,

I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.

I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.

I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

Thanks!

dear Slewfoot,

about a year ago, I found a heavy sturdy winter cotton from Holland & Sherry, when visiting Jungmann & Neffe in Vienna. The cloth has to be washed by the tailor before cutting.

I had two pairs made up in different colours to wear with the LL corn herringbone, in a style you could see in Apparel of Arts pictures. They wear very comfortable. You could make a nice winter chino as well.

cheers, David

Thanks David! Do you recall what book they from? I'll look into them!

Slewfoot wrote:Thanks David! Do you recall what book they from? I'll look into them!

I inquired because I'm curious, however the people at Jungmann were unable to tell me. Ask H&S perhaps? They should know. Simply ask for the winter cotton suitable for trousering.

cheers, David

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

Scabal had a "Winter Cottons" book back when. It was nice heavy cotton duck that is hard to find anymore. It has been discontinued...along with everything else that was good.

Cheers

Slewfoot wrote:
I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

Thanks!

Most cloth from Brisbane Moss is quoted in g/metre squared which means you would add an extra 50% get an idea of the weight per running metre which is what weights are more usually quoted in.

Aside from that you can get cotton duck/canvas as well as denim from http://www.premiumdenimoutlet.com/ and http://pacificbluedenims.com/. They have US and Japanese made cloth as well.

Slewfoot wrote: I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" . I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.
I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

If you haven´t made your mind up yet, why not consider hemp canvas?
The one sold by Hemp Traders is very sturdy at 460 grams. I would not use it for suiting o dress pants, but definitely yes for out of the ordinary "jean style" pants
And if you don´t like the result, you can always light your pants up and smoke them. If you know what I mean

Bedford cord?

another alternative is to have heavy rough cotton trousers, almost like a jean fabric trousers.

i dont know where to find this fabric, but i have seen my tailor sport these, and they are beyond awesome. i have just got to earn some money to buy them.

It has been pouring snow the last few days in Europe and I am very glad to have a pair of jeans made in Japan in 21 ozs denim. They are very warm and comfortable. Great stoffa!

Cheers

pur_sang wrote:another alternative is to have heavy rough cotton trousers, almost like a jean fabric trousers.

i dont know where to find this fabric, but i have seen my tailor sport these, and they are beyond awesome. i have just got to earn some money to buy them.

You'll find cotton duck, canvas and drill from the suppliers listed above in a variety of weights. Be warned, cotton is not warm in cold weather. In the past jeans for wear in cold climates were lined with wool flannel.

Be warned, cotton is not warm in cold weather. In the past jeans for wear in cold climates were lined with wool flannel.

True. For very cold weather I have made a few pair of 800 gms tweed trousers. They are fantastic.

Cheers

The consensus amongst hikers and outdoor sports people is that in certain situations ''cotton kills'', as when wet it will draw warmth out of the body at a greater rate than the ambient atmosphere. So if like Bear Grylls you feel the need to jump off an iceberg into the frozen seas of the north, the first thing you must do is strip off your blue jeans as you'll be better off naked than in soaked cotton!

hectorm wrote:

Slewfoot wrote: I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" . I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.
I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

If you haven´t made your mind up yet, why not consider hemp canvas?
The one sold by Hemp Traders is very sturdy at 460 grams. I would not use it for suiting o dress pants, but definitely yes for out of the ordinary "jean style" pants
And if you don´t like the result, you can always light your pants up and smoke them. If you know what I mean

I have had good experiences in the past with a pair of hemp trousers. These were summer trousers though, made of a very soft and supple but still hefty hemp material. I remember they smelled good too, definitely not like cannabis; it could have been the dye. As canvas I do wonder whether the stuff does not become too rugged and coarse.