The London Lounge

Is there any of the honourable members that has experience with or thoughts on the Amadeus jacketing from Dormeuil?

I am looking for a lovely olive colour for a sports jacket (not tweed), preferably with a windowpane. Mid weight.
My tailor sent me a couple of swatches and the Amadeus 440003 is my favourite. However, it feels very thin and weighs only 9.5 oz, which makes me doubt. It looks great, though. Dormeuils propaganda machine says:

Dormeuil wrote: Amadeus cloth: perfect wear, impeccable hang and characteristic strength with astonishing softness. This pure wool winter cloth exclusively woven in England also boasts a finish that guarantees a casual look as warm as it is light: only 290g! Super 100’s, 2/72 in the warp and weft. Milled finish gives softness, thickness and warm handle, without giving weight. A cloth for winter, but only about 290 grs.

I can see that Costi commented on an Amadeus summer jacketing some time ago. Not very positive. But technical development as described above might have made the winter version superior to anything else in the meantime

Any other alternatives in a soft olive colour (midweight - worsted)?

I have a no of suits made of Amadeus cloth. I have always found it good and it has a sheen to it that often elicits compliments. However the more recent cloths have been prone to creasing which has put me off a bit. The cloths I have tried are all in 11 oz. I don't Think Anyone can seriously suggest 9 oz is winter weight. I have no experience of the jacketing bunches

Some of the color patterns in the Amadeus book are gorgeous...but at 9.5oz...its strictly summer tissue paper weight cloth

If you are still looking for sturdier, but still light weight cloth...consider their Royal 12oz book...which is about 30 euros a meter cheaper.

I've had 2 suits made of the Royal 12 and love it on warmer days. Sadly, the newer Royal 12 book has half the offerings available than 3 years ago

Instead Doremeuil has focused their attention on their tissue paper weight Amadeus book

I would like to add my tailor refused to order the Amadeus claiming it was too light and brought up concerns that other LL members have mentioned

I have got one suit of navy Amadeus cloth and I regret ordering it. It's not the weight that's the problem since the suit is very serviceable in summer weather. Also are the shade and the depth of color very good. The problem is that the cloth is fragile, creases incredibly easy, hardly has any hand and so doesn't hang well. There's ery little character in the cloth.

Today I saw a small light weight jacketing bunch by Dormeuil that again had some nice colors in it and had a seemingly ok hand. What confused me was the low weight combined with a roughened finish, simply a bad idea if you ask me. Not sure whether it was the Amadeus, but I suppose so. Why risk using it? I suppose olive isn't really a 'mid weight color'. But maybe you can consider something like the olive check in this H&W bunch?

I highly agree with the advice given above by T.K. I have an odd jacket commissioned from the very cloth and a chestnut, POW check, of the same book. Excellent summer coats. The olive is not a lively color so I usually pair it with stone colored trousers. A young woman from my church approvingly called the look "summer chic".

T.K. wrote:The problem is that the cloth is fragile, creases incredibly easy, hardly has any hand and so doesn't hang well. There's ery little character in the cloth.

That's exactly it.
My Amadeus suit has not seen the light of day over the past few years. I don't even know why I keep it any more...
Pretty cloth that lets you down.

rodes wrote:I highly agree with the advice given above by T.K. I have an odd jacket commissioned from the very cloth and a chestnut, POW check, of the same book. Excellent summer coats. The olive is not a lively color so I usually pair it with stone colored trousers. A young woman from my church approvingly called the look "summer chic".

Good to hear this Rodes. I have not experienced the cloth made up so I wonder how is your jacket holding up? I ask particularly because of it being a 120s cloth.

Thanks.

T.K.
So far so good, but I have only had the coats for two summers now. I'm hoping for another 18.

Thanks. I've ordered some swatches today, but also noted that some of the finer styles in the book are now discontinued.

Thank you for all good advice, which has made me opt for another fabric.
After a talk with my tailor I have chosen a 11-12 oz jacketing from Scabal's Gallery bunch.
340 gram = fall-winter, Scabal says

Dormeuil have nice Sports Jacketing in Dormysport and Scottie Derby, with a bit more body --worth a look?