The London Lounge

An interesting article on Anderson & Sheppard for those who haven't read their book...

http://www.vanityfair.com/style/feature ... ard-201111

Lovely article, thank you for posting it.

Do anyone have any perspective of what they were and what they are now? To my little knowledge, things got a little sloppy for a period, then Ms. Anda Rowland came in and put things in order. I question whether now it's almost too much of a manufacturing plant.

I was filled with anticipation to visit this house, and yet I am a little underwhelmed after my commission. I look back on the whole experience, it was a very commercial operation, you walk in, you get a sales pitch, and a very consistent sales pitch at that as you basically get the same story from what you read in magazines. Upon fittings, you get whoever is around, although I tried best to only see the cutter that ultimately cut my cloth. I honestly believe they suffer a little superiority complex that is unjustified. Most importantly, I believe my suit was sub par, I think my off the rack Tom Fords were better.

pur_sang wrote: Most importantly, I believe my suit was sub par, I think my off the rack Tom Fords were better.

Never had any experience with this respected SR house, but I think it'd be interesting to know, in your case, if it's a problem of fit or finishing/workmanship.
Thank you in advance

M.

I've always been very happy with them, though I have always been fitted on the NY tours by Hitchcock himself.

There is a 'we know best' attitude, but the work quality and customer service is top notch.

Badden wrote:I've always been very happy with them, though I have always been fitted on the NY tours by Hitchcock himself.

There is a 'we know best' attitude, but the work quality and customer service is top notch.

That's nice to hear, since I'm seeing Mr. Hitchcock in NYC in just a few weeks. I suspect, though, that I may be something of an outlier in that I actually enjoy the "we know best" attitude (within reason, of course), since I don't like to micro-manage details and really enjoy letting my tailor(s) do what they do best while still trying to learn as much as possible about the process.

For the past five years they have made me a few suits each year.
Mr. Hitchcock has given me good advice, great service and clothes I love.
They are what they are, a large SR house with certain style and their way of doing things.
I am a happy client.

Screaminmarlon wrote:

pur_sang wrote: Most importantly, I believe my suit was sub par, I think my off the rack Tom Fords were better.

Never had any experience with this respected SR house, but I think it'd be interesting to know, in your case, if it's a problem of fit or finishing/workmanship.
Thank you in advance

M.

I will try to get pictures up if I have time. Generally, the finishing is ok, but the fit of the coat was just very sub par. The shoulder did not fall properly, and the back of the coat do not look very nice either (I am struggling to explain). I tried demanding for Mr. Hitchcock but was told the whole 'we all cut the same A&S coat' story, so my was not cut by Mr. Hitchcock.

The staff do seem to all wear great suits though.

pur_sang wrote: The staff do seem to all wear great suits though.

Yours should be their first concern
Hope they amend the fit of your suit,
Best regards
M.

Screaminmarlon wrote:

pur_sang wrote: The staff do seem to all wear great suits though.

Yours should be their first concern
Hope they amend the fit of your suit,
Best regards
M.

M, that is what I thought. The problem is I reside in Hong Kong, so I have to go back and let them see it, fix it, this is the beginning of a painful saga, I can already see it.

pur_sang wrote:
The problem is I reside in Hong Kong, so I have to go back and let them see it, fix it, this is the beginning of a painful saga, I can already see it.

Hope this question isn't rubbing salt into the wound but as a matter of interest given that Hong Kong is (or seems to be) a mecca for tailoring, why did you decide to go for a UK-based tailor? Have any local tailors been able to perform a diagnosis on the jacket?

I'm a big fan of A&S as well. I've had them make a number of outfits for me--everything from black tie, to suits and sport coats/odd trousers. Most of the time, everything is near perfect at the initial fitting. And when there have been adjustments necessary--as there are from time to time with any tailor, Savile Row or not--the subsequent fit, and their attitude, have both been superb. They deserve their reputation, built over the last 100+ years, of being one of the finest bespoke firms around. And if you love a soft-shouldered, drape cut (which I do), there's no better place in the world to get it.

And if you love a soft-shouldered, drape cut (which I do), there's no better place in the world to get it.

That's good to know!
Where then, is the best place to get a classic S.R. structured cut (not military extreme), with a little roping in the shoulders?

Gieves & Hawkes are known for their roped shoulders. I have no personal experience with them, however. So I'll defer to other LL members to opine on whether they'd be a good choice for you, and if not, where they'd direct you.

I am a fan of Richard Anderson who will rope as much or little as you prefer. He also runs an extremely efficient house with fittings ready on 2 week cycles,something other houses often fail to do. Obviously this does not work quite the same way in the US!