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Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:11 am
by robert_n
For me, the bespoke article with the greatest cost/benefit return is underwear. I have natural, unbleached, non-dyed linen made into boxer shorts, after years of dissatisfaction with off-the-rack versions. Ready-made of high quality can be found, but the elasticized waist makes for a hellish fit. When purchased, the elastic is often tight enough that the shorts ride way up - annoying. As the rubber ages, they sag - annoying. What's more, the rubber invariably perishes before the fabric gives out, and so any economic advantage of choosing ready-wear over bespoke is lost.

Hell in the Pacific, the Borman classic from 1968, offers a vintage solution that has served me well. You can see that the Imperial Japanese Army boxers have a sash-tie (@ 7.29 in this snippet). The don't ride up, and don't fall down.
http://is.gd/kaer1u

One other important point, the sash cord should be fairly loosely woven, so as not to dig into the flesh. I use these nylon, soft, jogging laces, but am only a 32" waist.
http://footcareinternational.com/produc ... ces-white/

For me, changing underwear rather than geography makes Hell in the Pacific now just a good film, and not a day in the life.

Re: Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:19 am
by robert_n
Image
Image

Irish linen bespoke boxers, fabric from Fergusons.
http://www.fergusonsirishlinen.com/

Re: Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:31 am
by robert_n
Image

Re: Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:18 pm
by cathach
Robert_n,

Many thanks for pointing out what should be obvious but is so often over-looked. Another point I'd make to members is that your tailor should be able to make 5-panel boxers which have no seams on the backside, i.e. just at the sides. I find that apart from the overly-elasticised waist which is a curse the next problem is those bulky seams on the garment.

Like a well-fitting shirt, this is another example of the bespoke wardrobe beginning from the best foundations.

Re: Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:07 am
by robert_n
@ cathach:
Good points. In fact, this is a project for the local, cheap-as-chips seamstress. You'll see no fly, as that only adds to the cost, and from earlier iterations, I found it unnecessary. I've not found the central seam uncomfortable, but I am certain that a more polished version would follow your template. Thanks.

Re: Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 1:14 pm
by cathach
Robert_n,

As a matter of interest can you tell us how many boxers or undershirts you got from your meterage (aka yardage) of linen?

Re: Hell in the Pacific, boxers excepted.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 3:16 am
by robert_n
@ cathatch:
Sorry, i've been less than systematic about my ordering. I basically just take any amount on hand and give it to the seamstress (though I get the remnants back for lint-free rags) with the idea that she make whatever she can.
The T-shirts I find more comfortable than cotton, even though the one photographed is an 11 oz fabric from Libeco ("Plum Frost").