A hidden talent in Florence...
Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:19 am
During a fitting in Tokyo with Fukaya-san of il micio many moons ago, I couldn't help but admire a solaro suit that he was wearing.
While it was distinctively Florentine, the cut was not immediately familiar so I enquired whether the suit was made by Liverano & Liverano. Fukaya-san said that it was made for him by a friend who had previously apprenticed at another Florentine tailoring house but has since started up his own atelier.
I was eventually introduced to this hidden Florentine talent, who worked out of a small one bedroom apartment, and decided to commission a jacket. He measured me and asked me to return the next day for a basted fitting. The forward fitting below, was done the following day and he even managed to squeeze in a third fitting the day after.
Vintage navy hopsack half lined summer jacket, 3 roll 2, 3 patch pockets
Height of armholes
Dartless front panel
Handwork on shoulder
The finish product is impressive with the hidden Florentine talent having a preferrence for a slimmer fitting sleeve, something I have since asked him to rectify for subsequent commissions. The maticulous hand work is breath taking, even more so given that the entire jacket is made by one pair of hands. The shoulders are natural with no padding. The lapels have that wonderful 3-dimensional roll.
My other works in progress include:
A charcoal sharksin suit.
Holland and Sherry Gamekeeper Tweed.
Holland and Sherry something or rather, summer weight suit.
A better representation of the colour and subtle patterns.
Looking forward to picking these up soon since its been about 18 months since these orders were placed. Since then he has built up a good following of customers and recently rented a three bedroom apartment that serves as this atelier. Always good to see hardwork pay off...
While it was distinctively Florentine, the cut was not immediately familiar so I enquired whether the suit was made by Liverano & Liverano. Fukaya-san said that it was made for him by a friend who had previously apprenticed at another Florentine tailoring house but has since started up his own atelier.
I was eventually introduced to this hidden Florentine talent, who worked out of a small one bedroom apartment, and decided to commission a jacket. He measured me and asked me to return the next day for a basted fitting. The forward fitting below, was done the following day and he even managed to squeeze in a third fitting the day after.
Vintage navy hopsack half lined summer jacket, 3 roll 2, 3 patch pockets
Height of armholes
Dartless front panel
Handwork on shoulder
The finish product is impressive with the hidden Florentine talent having a preferrence for a slimmer fitting sleeve, something I have since asked him to rectify for subsequent commissions. The maticulous hand work is breath taking, even more so given that the entire jacket is made by one pair of hands. The shoulders are natural with no padding. The lapels have that wonderful 3-dimensional roll.
My other works in progress include:
A charcoal sharksin suit.
Holland and Sherry Gamekeeper Tweed.
Holland and Sherry something or rather, summer weight suit.
A better representation of the colour and subtle patterns.
Looking forward to picking these up soon since its been about 18 months since these orders were placed. Since then he has built up a good following of customers and recently rented a three bedroom apartment that serves as this atelier. Always good to see hardwork pay off...
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