The London Lounge

Although the double-breasted jacket or single-breasted with peak lapels can add a touch of formality to a jacket it is also seen in cloths made from woolen-spun yarn i.e. woolen flannels, as opposed to worsted business suitings. My question is why we do not see peak lapels on tweed jackets or double-breasted jackets made-up in tweed cloths? Do members have any opinions on the subject. or have any examples of such jackets they may have themselves?

If not done very carefully, these could end up looking too stout-- or like a warm overcoat that somehow didn't grow to the correct size. That said, a peak lapel could perhaps work if always worn with a tie, perhaps as part of a suit (The 39 Steps?). And not too long ago, Ben Silver had a civilized indoor tweed made into a DB jacket for their catalogue.

To my uneducated, barely post-Neanderthal Hackett wearing eye it just looks wrong. I always see tweed as country, and peaked lapels as formal. Even with my love of rus in urbe peaked tweed would be too much.

Then of course rules are created to be broken, and I'll be delighted to be proven wrong.

This is one example. Definitely a city coat.

I saw a DB suit by Hardy Amies in Harrods. I have been very interested in getting something like it. The pattern was a light grey-like a Donegal Salt and Pepper pattern, although the hand was quite soft. If I knew the cloth for certain, I would definitely go for it.

I would consider trying it in the P&H 14 oz thorn proof in light grey. I have also seen a cloth by Anthony Haines which would be ideal...but I can't find out whether this maker produces cloth of bespoke quality, and so...I'm holding back. ( Ahd-02)
http://www.tweed-jackets-uk.co.uk/shopk ... tweed1.htm


On another note....below is an outfit from a recent film, which I find inspiring. Whether it is considered Ott. or anachronistic would not bother me, because I would find ways to wear it ( other than business), which would be a pleasure for me.

Peaked lapels? I would definitely go for them on tweeds, as long as the pattern was fairly plain.


http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl= ... s:35,i:185

Bookster, which could be considered as the most quintessential of places for MTM tweed jackets, doesn´t even bother with offering a peak lapel option for its lounge, hacking, shooting or Norfolk coats. Collar tab, velvet, suede, undercollar: all yes. Peak lapels: go somewhere else. Naturally then, they do not make DB jackets either.
Of course, if you go full bespoke, you could commission whatever you want but, IMO, peak lapels on a tweed jacket would be out of place (pardon, Mr. Niven).
One of the issues I see, not noted in the other posts above, is that the collar in tweed jackets should be practical and able to be fully closed when needed. Peak lapels make that closing less than perfect.

What about these by Richard Anderson?....in Cheviot.
I, for one....am all for them. They remind me of Etudee's stunning Apparel Arts posts, as did the db I already mentioned.


http://www.glazierpublicity.com/new/ric ... heviot.jpg

http://www.glazierpublicity.com/new/ric ... tscoat.jpg

http://www.glazierpublicity.com/new/ric ... _tweed.jpg

Wow. Those are very respectable. Incredibly respectable...

Rowly wrote:What about these by Richard Anderson?.....

Rowly, I know you know your tweed. The cloth of these very fine examples cut by Young Richard barely qualifies as such.
Notwithstanding I would have to agree that the Bookster´s donegals that you selected in your first post would make impressive DB suits in the fashion illustrated by Laurence Fellows (particularly in the large herringbone pattern).

The Prince of Wales was to be seen in a DB tweed odd jacket in one of the recent Jubilee documentaries.

http://www.bownsbespoke.com/henrypoole3.html

Mr Bown has a nice example, made by Henry Poole.

True, although the Glorious Twelfth book is worsted cloth with tweed-like color and pattern rather than a proper tweed. This may in fact recommend it for such hybrid town-and-country details, but doesn't push the boundaries in the way the Niven jacket does.

Lugano wrote: Mr Bown has a nice example, made by Henry Poole.

Mr. Francis Brown´s sharp PK lapels suit is made of Glorious Twelfth from Porter & Harding.
Call me old-fashioned but I resist the notion that a cloth weighting only 11 Oz and with worsted finish could be real tweed. It mimics some of the colors and patterns but it´s something else, perpetrated for looking the part in a country estate (or rus in urbe) without having to play it.

What do you think?
http://www.thesavilerowtailor.co.uk/201 ... chcock-25/

There is an informative debate in this thread with some references to peaked lapels on tweed.

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 3&start=30

I think, if one proceeds with care, a great result can be achieved. For others, it's a no go zone. My personal view is that if it's done well, it can nudge an outfit a bit closer to Urbe than Rus, allowing the wearer to have a bit more fun with it.

Rowly wrote:What do you think?
http://www.thesavilerowtailor.co.uk/201 ... chcock-25/

I'm afraid it looks too busy, the cut and the fabric whilst both beautiful don't work together.