Flapped breast pockets: Their Aesthetics
Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:23 pm
Hello All:
There is little discussion on the clothing fora of flapped breast pockets. This is perhaps unsurprising, since flapped breast pockets are very rare on today's civilian tailored undercoats, and also quite rare on civilian outercoats. But it does not change the fact that apart from the famous LL thread on a tweed coat by Frank Shattuck with a flapped breast pocket, I do not think there is a single thread on the clothing fora devoted to the topic. (There may be discussion of this feature on military clothing fora, but I am unfamiliar with those fora.)
I hope to start a discussion of the flapped breast pocket. IMO, it is an elegant detail which can make a sport coat or even a suit a bit more casual and easygoing. But what are your opinions? When, if ever, do flapped breast pockets on sport coats or suit coats look good? Why are they so much rarer than unflapped breast pockets?
Here are some images to get us thinking. We begin with flapped patch breast pockets with buttons. These are the standard in contemporary military service uniform ("walking-out dress"), and have been since the end of World War I. But they are also found in civilian dress.
I. Flapped patch with button:
(http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_02/ ... sox_13.jpg)
(http://www.inah.gob.mx/images/stories/B ... rranza.jpg)
(http://usarmy.vo.llnwd.net/e2/-images/2 ... 151208.jpg)
II. Flapped patch without button. These seem rare.
http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/upl ... ngrock.jpg
An Arnys model with inverted pleat on the pocket:
(http://mademoiselleaparis.com/wp-conten ... 112_02.jpg)
One from Sator's collection of images:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24536
One for sale:
http://www.retrotogo.com/2008/12/1930s-style-gen.html
III. Flapped welt with button:
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lhflr ... o1_400.jpg)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/146/3933 ... b64948.jpg)
(http://mexicomystic.files.wordpress.com ... bregon.jpg)
(http://www.mexicoenfotos.com/fotos/MX12182378883358.jpg)
Another from Sator's collection:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24617
And another:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24393
IV. Flapped welt without button:
On Cary grant:
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopi ... 8025#p8025
On Moore Bond:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru ... ost1220271
On Moore in the Saint, with two breast pockets:
(http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/wp-conte ... tedSC3.jpg)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_laok2 ... o1_500.jpg)
Another from Sator:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... ost&p=1348
And another:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... ost&p=1664
(http://denverbespoke.com/wp-content/upl ... otBLOG.jpg)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAyNFg2ODk=/ ... ~60_3.JPG)
(http://www.mycustomtailor.com/images/sh ... h_look.jpg)
What are your opinions? There are other details one could consider, for example pleated pockets, whether box pleats or inverted pleats, as on the Arnys coat. But I think that's enough for now.
There is little discussion on the clothing fora of flapped breast pockets. This is perhaps unsurprising, since flapped breast pockets are very rare on today's civilian tailored undercoats, and also quite rare on civilian outercoats. But it does not change the fact that apart from the famous LL thread on a tweed coat by Frank Shattuck with a flapped breast pocket, I do not think there is a single thread on the clothing fora devoted to the topic. (There may be discussion of this feature on military clothing fora, but I am unfamiliar with those fora.)
I hope to start a discussion of the flapped breast pocket. IMO, it is an elegant detail which can make a sport coat or even a suit a bit more casual and easygoing. But what are your opinions? When, if ever, do flapped breast pockets on sport coats or suit coats look good? Why are they so much rarer than unflapped breast pockets?
Here are some images to get us thinking. We begin with flapped patch breast pockets with buttons. These are the standard in contemporary military service uniform ("walking-out dress"), and have been since the end of World War I. But they are also found in civilian dress.
I. Flapped patch with button:
(http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_02/ ... sox_13.jpg)
(http://www.inah.gob.mx/images/stories/B ... rranza.jpg)
(http://usarmy.vo.llnwd.net/e2/-images/2 ... 151208.jpg)
II. Flapped patch without button. These seem rare.
http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/upl ... ngrock.jpg
An Arnys model with inverted pleat on the pocket:
(http://mademoiselleaparis.com/wp-conten ... 112_02.jpg)
One from Sator's collection of images:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24536
One for sale:
http://www.retrotogo.com/2008/12/1930s-style-gen.html
III. Flapped welt with button:
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lhflr ... o1_400.jpg)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/146/3933 ... b64948.jpg)
(http://mexicomystic.files.wordpress.com ... bregon.jpg)
(http://www.mexicoenfotos.com/fotos/MX12182378883358.jpg)
Another from Sator's collection:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24617
And another:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24393
IV. Flapped welt without button:
On Cary grant:
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopi ... 8025#p8025
On Moore Bond:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru ... ost1220271
On Moore in the Saint, with two breast pockets:
(http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/wp-conte ... tedSC3.jpg)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_laok2 ... o1_500.jpg)
Another from Sator:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... ost&p=1348
And another:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... ost&p=1664
(http://denverbespoke.com/wp-content/upl ... otBLOG.jpg)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAyNFg2ODk=/ ... ~60_3.JPG)
(http://www.mycustomtailor.com/images/sh ... h_look.jpg)
What are your opinions? There are other details one could consider, for example pleated pockets, whether box pleats or inverted pleats, as on the Arnys coat. But I think that's enough for now.