The London Lounge

I have just had half a dozen bespoke shorts made. Sleeve lengths have a lot of variance in them. What should I be aiming for? In my mind I was looking for something which came to the joint at the wrist and base of the thumb with my arms by my sides. I have two which do this, two a little shorter and two which go as far as the first joint on the thumb. What's the correct length, as clearly four our six need some change, just not sure which ...

I like the sleeves a little longer, so they don't ride up the coat sleeve when I bend the elbow. If the cuff is tight enough, it will sit on the thumb knock anyway. If the cuff rides lower (first joint of thumb), it's a problem of cuff circumference, not of sleeve length. Move the cuff button to tighten it if you can't have the cuffs recut.

Costi wrote:I like the sleeves a little longer, so they don't ride up the coat sleeve when I bend the elbow. If the cuff is tight enough, it will sit on the thumb knock anyway. If the cuff rides lower (first joint of thumb), it's a problem of cuff circumference, not of sleeve length. Move the cuff button to tighten it if you can't have the cuffs recut.

Amen.

stephenm wrote:... two which go as far as the first joint on the thumb. What's the correct length, as clearly four our six need some change, just not sure which ...

Stephenm: first joint of the thumb is way too low and makes you look sloppy. Aim for the knock of the thumb mainly by tightening the cuff and not by shortening the sleeves. But if doing this makes you look like a pirate , go ahead and have the sleeves shortened (and the cuffs tightened).

Shirts are best commissioned with sleeves that are slightly long and cuffs closely fitted. With your coat on no one will ever notice and your shirt cuff should always show the proper 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the coat sleeve. With your coat off there will be a moderate fullness of cloth around the forearm. I for one do not find this distracting, to the contrary, aesthetically pleasing. This is the safest way and there is no down side.

I'm somewhat confused, did you get all six shirts with the same maker? I'd be a bit worried if the one maker had different sleeve lengths on all your shirts.

cathach wrote:I'm somewhat confused, did you get all six shirts with the same maker? I'd be a bit worried if the one maker had different sleeve lengths on all your shirts.

Yes, all from the same maker, all collected at the same time. I'm confused as well ...

Have you contacted them about this? Make sure they do the altering for you.

Personally I would try on each of the differing lengths and decide which fitted best. I'd have to agree with Costi and the other posters in that you do not want a cuff that disappears up your sleeve every time you bend your elbow.

Thank you, good advice

And another big plus in getting your shirts cuffs tight and all fixed at the same spot around your wrist is that, from then on, this will be the foundation stone for assessing the correct length of all your coats sleeves. Contrary to their ranking, the expensive bespoke coat should follow the more humble shirt (an undergarment for many) in this respect, and not the other way around.

hectorm wrote: Contrary to their ranking, the expensive bespoke coat should follow the more humble shirt (an undergarment for many) in this respect, and not the other way around.

Amen http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 32&t=10360

alden wrote: So, the first step in bespoke is to get a serious shirt, one that fits, made by the best craftsmen you can’t afford...

Dear Stephenm,

have you checked the armholes on your shirts? They should be high, because if your coat has high armholes as many tailors do it, and the shirt doesn't, the coat will pull the shirt cuffs up.

cheers, david