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30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 9:01 pm
by alden
One of my latest projects is an Italian shooting coat that I found in a 1930s era tailoring book. This “giacca di caccia” is a 3 button front with a modified reversible collar, a pleated back, large patch pockets and belt.

ImageIMG_0095 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

It is being made in this LL test tweed, a 650 gms mid brown herringbone with a crimson stripe. The cloth was never made and it is a real shame because it is beautiful.

Image

Stay tuned.

Cheers

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 9:37 pm
by davidhuh
Dear Michael,

very interesting project! Will you also do trousers to go with it?

A real pity for the cloth not making it - I'm still in and full of hope...

cheers, david

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:28 am
by alden
David

There was only enough cloth from the test to do the coat. But I plan on making the trousers in a brown bedford cord.

This tweed was the mid brown version of the TW09 dark brown herringbone with a crimson stripe that is one of the best looking tweed suits I have ever seen. Each and every suit made from that cloth was stunning. The mid brown is a bit more understated in the sense that there is less contrast with the stripe.

Cheers

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:57 pm
by Slewfoot
Michael,

Fantastic look! I've been wondering about options for more casual coats and this is certainly one. I look forward to seeing photos of the finished product. If it comes out as good as I imagine it will I'm sure the tweed subscription will fill up in no time!

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:13 pm
by Testudo_Aubreii
Great idea, Michael. Sator has a picture of something similar from 1949 in post 12 of this thread:
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/in ... st&p=24515

I like those sharp-point-collar coats. I don't know why so few bespoke customers order them for casual coats. They seem to nicely fill the space between today's conventional lounge-cut "sport" coat and a shirt jacket (itself seemingly under-commissioned).

Thanks, Michael, for reminding us that there are lots of options out there.

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Sun May 20, 2012 10:43 am
by radicaldog
I have something very similar in RTW corduroy. It has an action back and only a half belt. And in fact it's italian.

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:58 pm
by alden

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:20 pm
by Rob O
Simply wonderful. The resurrection and improvement of a bygone style icon.

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:46 pm
by mek
Just perfect. What cloth do you use?

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:23 am
by alden
Mek

It is made in this LL test tweed, a 650 gms mid brown herringbone with a crimson stripe. The cloth was never made and it is a real shame because it is beautiful.

Image

Cheers

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 1:19 pm
by davidhuh
I hope we find some additional subscribers. This cloth looks outstanding; great as a sports coat or overcoating :D

cheers, david

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:08 pm
by Costi
Veeeery handsome!

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 3:15 pm
by yialabis
Wow ...!!!

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 3:47 pm
by Screaminmarlon
I'm amazed by the variety of styles here: it's refreshing.
A substantial cloth (and a great taylor/bespeaker combination) does wonders for the beauty of lapel roll!
M.

Re: 30s era Italian shooting coat

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 7:43 pm
by alden
Thank you to all.

I learned a few things making this coat. I very much liked the picture and the pattern from the 30s. The good news is the coat turned out better than I imagined. The bad news is that it has rendered obsolete my considerable collection of sporting tweed, country coats. And the reason is the reversible collar. My tailor crafts a beautiful one and he did not miss a beat here. And this style of collar cannot be equalled for a weekend, country or hunting coat. Rolling this collar up is a breeze and the protection and good looks are without rival. All my future sporting coats will be identical to this one: 3b front, reversible collar, pleated back.

Try it you won't be dissapointed.

Cheers