The London Lounge

Hi all

I'm having my first bespoke suit tailored, using Minnis Rangoon in black. The suit will be used almost exclusively in court and, well, funerals I suppose.

I've decided to source for the buttons for the jacket and the trousers myself. Because of the intended use of this suit, I'd like the buttons to be as traditional and conservative as possible, in terms of size and colour. I understand that horn is preferred, but that is the extent of my knowledge in this area.

My questions are:

1. How large should the buttons on the jacket (including the sleeves) be? How many buttons should there be on the jacket sleeve?

2. How large should the buttons on the trousers be?

3. What colour should I get the buttons in - for the jacket, and for the trousers?

I hope to purchase these buttons from RJ Weldon / Schneiderknopf / Tender Buttons in NYC. So it would be helpful if you could point me to specific model/item numbers. It would also be helpful if you could suggest any better sources of such buttons.

Thanks in advance.

I have used Tender Buttons and http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Both carry horn buttons.

From my understanding sizes are as follows:

23 Ligne = Sleeves and trouser

30 Ligne = Single breasted jacket

35 Ligne = Double breasted jacket

nihraguk wrote: I'm having my first bespoke suit tailored,.....I've decided to source for the buttons for the jacket and the trousers myself.

Interesting choice. May I inquire why you´re taking the trouble?

nihraguk wrote: How many buttons should there be on the jacket sleeve?

My general rules for bespoke (with no particular reason behind them besides that I like the way they look) are:
1 button jacket - 1 button on the sleeve
2 button jacket - 4 buttons on the sleeve
3 button jacket - 3 buttons on the sleeve
6x2 DB - 4 buttons on the sleeve
8x3 DB - seriously?

nihraguk wrote: What colour should I get the buttons in - for the jacket, and for the trousers?

For your black suit and considering the use that you plan for it, if you get horn buttons (you should), get them dyed all black and with a rather matte finish.

Thanks for the replies. I've contacted RJ Weldon, and hope to hear from them soon.

Interesting choice. May I inquire why you´re taking the trouble?

I'm getting the suit made by Iris Tailor of Singapore. She doesn't seem to stock Bemberg. As for the buttons - I just thought that I should go to a little more trouble to ensure that I get ones that I'll be happy with.

I think four sleeve buttons is generally preferred for a formal suit.

Forgive my ignorance, do you robe for court in Singapore?

nihraguk wrote:Hi all

I'm having my first bespoke suit tailored, using Minnis Rangoon in black. The suit will be used almost exclusively in court and, well, funerals I suppose.

I've decided to source for the buttons for the jacket and the trousers myself. Because of the intended use of this suit, I'd like the buttons to be as traditional and conservative as possible, in terms of size and colour. I understand that horn is preferred, but that is the extent of my knowledge in this area.

My questions are:

1. How large should the buttons on the jacket (including the sleeves) be? How many buttons should there be on the jacket sleeve?

2. How large should the buttons on the trousers be?

3. What colour should I get the buttons in - for the jacket, and for the trousers?

I hope to purchase these buttons from RJ Weldon / Schneiderknopf / Tender Buttons in NYC. So it would be helpful if you could point me to specific model/item numbers. It would also be helpful if you could suggest any better sources of such buttons.

Thanks in advance.

Four buttons on the sleeve regardless of double/single breasted or button configuration. Trousers (back pockets/fly) etc usually same as sleeve. The suggestion above of three is very wrong indeed.

As to specific sizes I have never measured them but by eye they have been the same for ever. If you have a doubt simply measure those of an existing garment.

Colour - black with natural white fleck through.

rrosals wrote:I have used Tender Buttons and http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Both carry horn buttons.

From my understanding sizes are as follows:

23 Ligne = Sleeves and trouser

30 Ligne = Single breasted jacket

35 Ligne = Double breasted jacket

You'll that other makers such as Schneiderkopf will have slightly different sizes e.g.

22L or 24L for sleeves

30L or 32L for jacket front

36L for a double breasted jacket

If you have DB jacket with 36L buttons you might go for the 24L sleeve buttons. For a conservative suit as you mention I'd go for 4 buttons on the sleeves.

If having a fly front on your trousers the 24L or 22L should be fine and for braces etc. as well although tailors will often use plastic buttons for braces/trousers.

DFR wrote: Colour - black with natural white fleck through.

The problem here is that "black" real horn buttons are not black at all. I love the character of those flecked buttons by themselves, but from a distance beyond three feet they look gray and a bit too light for a solid black suit. Notwithstanding they have worked for me on a chalk striped black heather flannel suit to a great effect.
I guess that all depends on what nihraguk is wearing to court.

hectorm wrote:

DFR wrote: Colour - black with natural white fleck through.

The problem here is that "black" real horn buttons are not black at all. I love the character of those flecked buttons by themselves, but from a distance beyond three feet they look gray and a bit too light for a solid black suit. Notwithstanding they have worked for me on a chalk striped black heather flannel suit to a great effect.
I guess that all depends on what nihraguk is wearing to court.

Still look 'right' on a black suit intended for day wear.

BirdofSydney wrote:I think four sleeve buttons is generally preferred for a formal suit.

Forgive my ignorance, do you robe for court in Singapore?

Yes, when in open Court (i.e. for trials, appeals, etc). But not for hearings in Chambers (pre-trial conferences, interlocutory applications, etc).