The London Lounge

This post is partly for information on tailors in Sydney, and partly a discussion on my suit, what I should be asking for, and how it turns out.

Tailor

I've recently (before Xmas) commissioned my first ever bespoke suit from GA Zink and Sons in Sydney. I did a bit of research, but plumped with Zinks (ahead of John Cutler) mostly on price as they were quite a bit cheaper. I spent about an hour discussing with Robert Jones (the owner - I think) on fabrics and linings etc, and went back again a week later with the boss (my fiancee) for final selection of fabrics. Robert was happy to talk and show various fabrics, and listen to my requests. I've only been guided by him on a couple of points so far (noted below).

Fabric

This is for my wedding in Mexico, so I'm going for a lighter style of fabric, and a lighter colour than I probably would have otherwise selected (but still appropriate enough to wear to work). I'm having it in a mid-light grey pick and pick, of 70% Super 100s mix with 30% mohair (I can't remember the name or brand of the fabric at this stage).

Suit/Design

What I've asked for so far:

I'm getting a three piece, SB suit, with spare trousers. Two buttoned, notch lapels, double vented, with straight pockets, working sleeve buttonholes. Bouttoniere loop underneath the lapel. The jacket is only going to have a half canvas.
5 buttoned waistcoast. (Other details escape me at this stage).
Flat fronted trousers, belt loops, with single rear pocket, inner mobile phone pocket in the front right trouser pocket. No cuffs, zip fly. Robert suggested the single rear pocket and the belt loops, as I was toying with getting side adjusters on one pair of trousers.

Total cost - $3750 Australian.

About me

I'm 195 cms (6'6") and about 88kgs (190lbs) so fairly tall and thin. I have quite narrow shoulders and waist, with larger thighs.

I'm hoping to upload various photos as we progress (and if Robert will allow) so people can see how things progress. At this stage I'm wondering whether people have any comments on style, fabric, price etc so that I can be sure that the finished product is as close to fantastic quality as possible.

My plan is to head to Charles Nakhle for a shirt, as I've only seen good things mentioned about him on this website.

Thanks

MT

Welcome to London Lounge and congratulations on your upcoming wedding!

I am also a Sydney sider but have no personal experience with Zink and Sons. I will be following this thread with interest on your progress, please do keep posting.

The styling you have chosen are fine, I would have gone with the side adjuster and cuffs on the trousers but these are all personal choices. One think that concerns me is for the price you are paying I would have insisted on full canvas rather than half canvas.

Charles Nakhle is great for shirts but let him know if you need your shirt in a hurry. There is also Bijan Bespoke for shirts, there work is pretty good as well.

having some detail differences between the two pairs is a good idea simply of the change so if it s not too late I would certainly suggest getting one with side adjusters and extension band.

Why the single rear pocket not two - the symmetry of two is far better and it night even be useful.

Hello Mtyler! Congratulations on your upcoming wedding.
Since this is a suit for such a special occasion I cannot resist the temptation of strongly recommending that you go for a double breasted vest (I would even consider lapels on it). This would make a big, big difference. I will get you pictures if I can.
Also since you are so tall I would recommend bottom turn ups for your trousers. I know plain trousers are supposed to be more formal, but you are going to wear this suit for work later on, and the long legs will definitely look better finished with cuffs.

Welcome, mtyler, and congratulations. I think your choices are perfectly fine if you're not going to be married in morning dress, and the style details should please yourself. My only serious reservation is the cell phone pocket in the trousers. It will be very difficult to avoid a bulge that breaks the line when you move if you carry your phone in your pocket, even if the trousers are cut generously (I believe there is a Dilbert cartoon on this topic). Could you instead have the phone pocket inside the jacket somewhere? It would be much preferable, as the structure of the jacket can minimize any strain or bulge. If you're likely to need the phone when your jacket is off, then your plan is better than having the phone slide around loose in the main pocket. You might consider having that leg cut slightly fuller in the thigh to compensate for the extra bulk and stiffness.

Purely personal, but I too would have had at least one pair of trousers with the DAKS-top button side adjusters. If your tailor steered you away because his execution of that detail might not be as good, then it might be best to conform. If he was just trying to avoid making the more labor-intensive style, you might reconsider. If he gave you a good rationale based on his judgment of the effect on your specific figuration, I'd pay attention. From your own description of your proportions, I would expect that the extra thickness of a belt under the jacket would add thickness to the silhouette just where you might not want it.

But these are both extremely fine points, and will not change the fact that your suit will be lovely if the tailor executes it well. Good luck and keep us posted.

hectorm wrote:I cannot resist the temptation of strongly recommending that you go for a double breasted vest (I would even consider lapels on it). This would make a big, big difference. I will get you pictures if I can.

Mtyler, I hope you like this idea of the DB vest. Here's one on Hugh Laurie.

Gents

Thank you for the responses to date - all feedback and comments are gratefully received.

I've been to Charles Nakhle and he was extremely helpful. I've ordered two shirts from him, and the first is ready for a fitting, which I am hoping to do this weekend.

I've a first fitting of the jacket today, so will keep you posted on how that goes, and follow up with some of the points raised above. I'm going to ask about the side adjusters, as I do like the idea of having variation.

RE: mobile phone pocket, this is really for when I am sitting down and occassionally have the phone in my pocket (not BB but a slim phone). I don't like the way it stretches the trousers if it isn't parrallel to the leg, so am having the pocket for this reason and to ensure I feel it when it vibrates.

RE: DB waistcoat and turn ups. I've steered clear of the DB as I'm going to be sweating a fair bit on my wedding day anyway and don't won't to exacerbate the problem! It will be approx 30 degrees, and I'll have a vest/undershirt, short, waistcoat and suit jacket on (and probably my beer jacket as well to calm the nerves)! I'm also not very keen on turn-ups so am not having those.

RE: rear pockets. I won't be using these so decided that one is fine but will review for symmetry at the fitting (if already added).

I've had my first fitting at Nakhle for my shirts. The shirts looked good, although the shoulder/yoke sat a lot lower on one side than the other (about 1 inch different). It was very noticeable and I pointed it out to Charles, and he seemed reticent to fix it. He said it would require unstitching the whoel sleeve etc. He did agree to do it, but I would have expected him to agree to fix it without any qualms. I was a bit disappointed with that.

Fitting of the trousers at Zinks today. Have recently heard that they are closing the O'Connell Street store so am hoping to have everything completed before that happens.

mtyler wrote: ..the shoulder/yoke sat a lot lower on one side than the other (about 1 inch different). It was very noticeable and I pointed it out to Charles, and he seemed reticent to fix it.

That kind of attitude is very disappointing and not a good base on which to develop a relation with a shirtmaker.
Did he mention the reason why he didn´t want to fix the shoulder (beyond telling you that it was quite some work)?

No reason why he was reluctant to fix it apart from the time taken. However, he has adjusted and I have collected my two shirts.

The fabric is superb and the cut/fit much better with the shoulders adjusted.

Collecting suit today - photo to follow

Photo size too large... any ideas?

I am waiting with bated breath, as I've given serious thought to visiting Charles. Perhaps unsurprisingly, last time I was in town (I live in Brisbane nowadays), the lady friend was unamused by the prospect of a day in Parramatta...

Re image size: if you have jpgs you ought to be able to open them and then save them optimized for posting on the Internet, which will be a lot smaller.

I have used both Zink and Nakhle. Zink made me two excellent suits - lightweight fabric and a construction that was at once solid and elegant. Unfortunately moths got to one of them within 18 months of purchase but the other is still perhaps my favourite suit (ahead of a few suits made by names which would be much more familiar to members of this site).

As for Nakhle, I am half convinced. Prices and fabrics are good but the shirt could be a bit longer and he forgot to use MOP buttons on one of my shirts even though I had paid extra for it.

OK. I will try that for the photos and then post.

I've since worn both and I have been very happy - lots of favourable comments about the suit and the shirts as well.

Well, man, where are the photos!