Bespoke shoes in Warsaw - Januszkiewicz

[kamil]

Gentlemen,
As a newly registered user, but one who has enjoyed reading your highly informative posts on this forum for quite a while, I thought it would be appropriate to share something with you in return.
I live in Warsaw, Poland, and it is there that I acquired these shoes in May this year from a renowned bespoke shoemaker (bespoke diehards could argue his services are more MTM in nature) Tadeusz Januszkiewicz, who was mentioned on this forum before.
After a long consideration, I opted for burgundy wholecuts from Italian calfskin on a double sole. The general shape was based on one of his standard lasts, customized to my feet size and shape, one with a relatively less bevelled waist than Januszkiewicz's flagship last (cf. the last paragraph). I asked for an additional feature - a couple of inserts (edgings?) on the uppers, running more or less paralelly to the lacings and ending where the nose begins. A friend of mine has shoes by Kielman (arguably the most famous Warsaw shoemaker) with this particular feature and I found it very appealing. It seems to make the shoe look more (aero)dynamic and sleek without, I think, making it look excessively informal.
These shoes have been extremely comfortable from day one, which is remarkable given their GYW construction. To my surprise, I practically didn't have to break them in.
Another pair of oxfords by Januszkiewicz is definitely on my 2012 agenda. The only problem (I mean to say, benefit) is that there are so many options to choose from...

[davidhuh]

Dear Kamil,

very nice shoes indeed! Thank you for sharing the pictures!

cheers, david

[kamil]

Here are some more examples of the artisan's work. All were presented at the Polish http://www.bespoke.pl forum.

1. Burgundy calfskin brogues (more pictures: http://www.forum.bespoke.pl/viewtopic.p ... cz&start=0)


The following two pairs were ordered by a friend who, as you will see, is an enthusiast of exotic leathers.

2. Python + calfskin derbies, right after my friend collected them from the cobbler, held for the picture by yours truly (more pictures: http://www.forum.bespoke.pl/viewtopic.p ... &start=104)


3. Elephant wholecuts (it was actually the first time that the 82 year old Januszkiewicz made shoes of elephant leather). I find these stunning, but see for yourselves (more pictures: http://www.forum.bespoke.pl/viewtopic.p ... uszkiewicz)

[hectorm]

2. Python + calfskin derbies, right after my friend collected them from the cobbler, held for the picture by yours truly.

Python skin? Is it legal to sell or export it in Poland?
Those shoes would be illegal to bring into the US without a license from the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). And good luck getting one.

[Simon A]

Sounds a bit odd. There are more than a dozen popular cowboy boot manufacturers in USA making boots inexpensively from python skin, of USA and foreign origin.

[hectorm]

Might sound odd but it´s not. Actually CITES makes illegal the use and export of unlicensed python in all countries that have ratified the Convention. Many American and foreign companies have licenses which are rather difficult to get because you have to show an origin other than an endangered species. That´s why I asked about Poland. You need a license to export it and you if you try to bring a pair of shoes in your suitcase just for your personal use, you have to show the license at customs (if you declare it, of course).

[kamil]

That is a somewhat surprising question, but yes, of course, the leather was legally purchased from an Italian wholesaler, in perfect agreement with both the letter and the spirit of CITES. Might I add for those interested, the VAT tax was also duly paid. The same refers to the elephant leather. No doubt there is a joint EU law governing this market (for those who might not know that, both Poland and Italy are members of the EU), so the main issue my friend encountered was to convince the wholesaler to sell him a relatively small amount.

[kamil]

Here is another pair that exotic leather afinociados might find of interest - ostrich wholecuts.
Source: http://www.forum.bespoke.pl/viewtopic.p ... &start=139

[kamil]

Yesterday, a friend of mine and myself collected each our recent orders from TJ. Both pairs were made from Horween No.8 shell cordovan. He ordered boots, and I opted for dress oxfords (adelaides), as discussed and just reported here: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=10639#p63952

Here are several more pictures comparing my shoe with his boot. The gentleman on the last two pictures is the Maestro himself.

[Costi]

Bravo Maestro!

[Frans]

Real craftmanship. Very beautiful
Is the Polish shoemaker tradition in the style of the Austro-Hungarian school?

[hectorm]

Is the Polish shoemaker tradition in the style of the Austro-Hungarian school?

Without claiming any knowledge about Polish shoemaker tradition, let me try to answer this question just by looking at the pictures of these cordovan shell shoes and boots.
In the very handsome Adelaides I see the elegant and elongated "F" last (still with the rather roomy toe) by Lazlo Vass from Budapest. Does any other LL member who knows shoes happen to agree or disagree?
In the curved side quarters lapping over the vamp of the boots I see the Prussian imprint of Field Marshall Blucher and a style very much popular in Vienna and central Europe. Nobody would mistake these derbies for English city boots.
So, at least in style I see plenty of A-H tradition in what that master from Warsaw has done.
BTW: fantastic shoes and boots. At the beginning I thought the broguing was a bit large, but the more I look at them the more I think that it matches the character of the cordovan shell very well.

[davidhuh]

In the very handsome Adelaides I see the elegant and elongated "F" last (still with the rather roomy toe) by Lazlo Vass from Budapest. Does any other LL member who knows shoes happen to agree or disagree?

You can see my Vass cordovans, model Alt Wien & Theresianer, 3636 last though. I like them a little bit more today than initially
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 62&p=57186

In the curved side quarters lapping over the vamp of the boots I see the Prussian imprint of Field Marshall Blucher and a style very much popular in Vienna and central Europe. Nobody would mistake these derbies for English city boots.
So, at least in style I see plenty of A-H tradition in what that master from Warsaw has done.

What Januszkiewicz is doing is Austro-Hungarian tradition in my eyes. I would not expect anything else from a traditional shoe maker in Central Europe.

BTW: fantastic shoes and boots.

Indeed! Congratulations to the owner! - And the maker, or course!

cheers, david

[hectorm]

You can see my Vass cordovans, model Alt Wien & Theresianer, 3636 last though. I like them a little bit more today than initially
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 62&p=57186

David, so you went all the way to the Vass workshop in Hungary and bespoke Old Viennas instead of Budapesters?
You were more original than most of us. Your pair looks great, very sturdy and comfortable. Made up in cordovan shell they must be the perfect go-to shoe for cross country walks or rainy days. Are these the shoes your are wearing with your corduroy suit by Mahon?
I own a pair of Vass Budapesters myself. In brown Scotch grained leather. I bought them because there were such a classic and I had to have a pair. Nowadays very seldom do I wear them. I find their sole too thick, too heavy on the feet and overwhelming for most outfits. They go well with jeans though.
The cordovan adelaides by the Polish shoemaker on this thread are a completely different animal.

[davidhuh]

Dear Hectorm,

David, so you went all the way to the Vass workshop in Hungary and bespoke Old Viennas instead of Budapesters?
You were more original than most of us. Your pair looks great, very sturdy and comfortable. Made up in cordovan shell they must be the perfect go-to shoe for cross country walks or rainy days.

thank you! When I went to Vass, I found the Old Viennas more elegant than the Budapesters. And I had already two pairs of those made up by another maker (with mixed results). The Vass cordovans are very good for rainy days in the city. For cross country walks, I would use different shoes with rubber or vibram soles.

Are these the shes your are wearing with your corduroy suit by Mahon?

You have sharp eyes and a good memory! But wrong guess - what I'm wearing there is an at least 25 year old pair of Church's shoes, very likely a cordovan, I don't remember. They are one of the best shoes I ever had.

I own a pair of Vass Budapesters myself. In brown Scotch grained leather. I bought them because there were such a classic and I had to have a pair. Nowadays very seldom do I wear them. I find their sole too thick, too heavy on the feet and overwhelming for most outfits. They go well with jeans though.
The cordovan adelaides by the Polish shoemaker on this thread are a completely different animal.

I would reconsider a pair of Budapesters now, either Vass RTW (his MTO is not very convincing in terms of customer service, and I'm not often enough in Budapest) or from another maker. They go great with the corduroy and all the tweed I am piling up - but you are right regarding the soles - some models look like made up for the Oktoberfest. I am also impressed by the Polish shoemaker and look forward to a trip to Warsaw.

cheers, david