The London Lounge

I am in the process of commissioning my fourth bespoke suit, which will be a three-piece, and I have been considering my options with regard to what cloth to choose. I work as a lawyer, not that this matters much these days when it comes to dress, as it seems that any suit will do, without regard to the suitability of the the cloth for business.

Nevertheless I strive for a certain correctness, and have decided to commission something in a gray colour. In this regard I have been considering the J&J Minnis flannel no 0326 (http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jjm&c=7&p=3) but am unsure whether this is suitable for a business suit?

I am also considering choosing a chalk stripe, such as no 0312 (http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jjm&c=7&p=2) or no 0334 (http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jjm&c=7&p=4), but I am here torn between a narrow stripe (0312) and a wider one (0334). Cannot the wider stripe a bit of a gaudy "gangster" look?

Sofar I have only been looking at the Minnis flannel book but I would much appreciate suggestions of other books in the spirit of the description above. Are there any other cloth merchants than Huddersfields with online books?

S

Dear Bond and beyond,

I have just received some cloth from the Minnis Flannel book for trousering (pattern 0302) - this is great cloth. Delivery was very speedy, customer service very attentive and friendly.

0326 is absolutely suitable for business - though their web site says it is currently out of stock. You would need to check with them when they get additional stock. If you go for chalk stripes, I would personally go for the wider option in flannel - this is such a fluffy cloth ; narrow chalk stripes would be a contradiction...

I have one small remark to make though. You say this is your fourth bespoke suit. Are you sure you already want to go for flannel? I am asking because it is a delicate cloth, and I would not wear it more than once in a week. So I would have enough worsted suits in circulation before adding some flannel. I have just commissioned a 3 piece suit with two trousers in charcoal worsted 16ozs from Lesser (29612).

In case you want to check out other flannels, inquire Fox Flannels. Get in touch over e-mail, I'm sure they will be happy to send you some swatches.

cheers, David

A three piece flannel will cook you alive.

A choice made from the Classic book would be a better bet. More hard wearing to boot.

Another option would be a worsted flannel, it will make a more durable suit, as always the reccommendation is to get an extra pair of trousers. HFW do a 16oz worsted flannel under their Martin & Sons label, lovely dark grey with a chalk stripe.

Renfield wrote:A three piece flannel will cook you alive.

A choice made from the Classic book would be a better bet. More hard wearing to boot.

I completely agree, go with something from the classic book, I have the mid grey pick and pick currently being made into a 3 piece, and it looked great at the first fitting. Save the flannel for a nice DB instead.

Macallan: why save it for a double-breasted? Would it be for stylistic reasons? I mean, practical considerations would suggest that a DB suit be made from relatively lightweight cloth (not flannel) given the notorious overheating in today's offices.

I said DB just as a variation from the standard 3 roll 2 or 2 button SB flannel suit. A three piece flannel is going too be way too hot, at least for me, so if the op wants a 3-piece i would go with a classic worsted. If however they want a flannel suit, just to add something different to their closet, a DB is a nice choice granted you have the right physique for it. A classic worsted DB would work just as well in my opinion

My personal preference in the flannel would be for a DB suit. We just do not see enough of them in the world, especially the business world. In some locales they seem to stand out to much and this is unfortunate since by tradition they are so appropriate. The cold weather flannel suit is one opportune instance where the DB would seem most expected and if it were me, I would not want to lose it.

davidhuh wrote:
I have one small remark to make though. You say this is your fourth bespoke suit. Are you sure you already want to go for flannel? I am asking because it is a delicate cloth, and I would not wear it more than once in a week. So I would have enough worsted suits in circulation before adding some flannel. I have just commissioned a 3 piece suit with two trousers in charcoal worsted 16ozs from Lesser (29612).

In case you want to check out other flannels, inquire Fox Flannels. Get in touch over e-mail, I'm sure they will be happy to send you some swatches.

cheers, David

Thanks David. I have already gone into the "flannel trap" as my first and third bespoke suits are also flannel (SW mid-grey and JJ Minnis charcoal respectively, the latter as a three piece), and I love it I have RTW worsteds that I wear in between so that I never wear one of my bespoke suits more than once a week.

Alas the cloth I was looking for from Minnis was out of stock as you said, and they won't have any more until the end of February. I am therefore thinking of either going with the Minnis no 0304 (Airforce blue) or 0339 (grey PoW), does anyone here have experience with these cloths? I am particularly curious how the airforce blue would make up. The suit will be a 3-piece.

Thanks,
S

Macallan1926 wrote: I completely agree, go with something from the classic book, I have the mid grey pick and pick currently being made into a 3 piece, and it looked great at the first fitting. Save the flannel for a nice DB instead.

Macallan: Is that 0631 from the Classic book you are having made? Indeed it looks nice. You've given me something to think about, especially since my commission will not be ready until February/March (I assume) and then Spring will be on its way, which means I won't be able to wear the flannel suit until Autumn again.

Thanks,
S

Yes sir 0631 seen HERE, I would go with that or 0632 as a classic 3-piece, I'm holding off on flannel till july/august so it will be ready for next fall/winter, again definitely go with something from the classic book for a 3-piece

Macallan1926 wrote:Yes sir 0631 seen HERE, I would go with that or 0632 as a classic 3-piece, I'm holding off on flannel till july/august so it will be ready for next fall/winter, again definitely go with something from the classic book for a 3-piece

I heeded the advise and went with the mid-grey pick and pick from the Minnis classic book. Basted fitting hopefully on Friday, excited to see how it turns out.

Thanks,
S

Nice, ull get your finished suit before me even

bond_and_beyond wrote:

davidhuh wrote:
I have one small remark to make though. You say this is your fourth bespoke suit. Are you sure you already want to go for flannel? I am asking because it is a delicate cloth, and I would not wear it more than once in a week. So I would have enough worsted suits in circulation before adding some flannel. I have just commissioned a 3 piece suit with two trousers in charcoal worsted 16ozs from Lesser (29612).

In case you want to check out other flannels, inquire Fox Flannels. Get in touch over e-mail, I'm sure they will be happy to send you some swatches.

cheers, David

Thanks David. I have already gone into the "flannel trap" as my first and third bespoke suits are also flannel (SW mid-grey and JJ Minnis charcoal respectively, the latter as a three piece), and I love it I have RTW worsteds that I wear in between so that I never wear one of my bespoke suits more than once a week.

...OR it may simply be a matter of having ENOUGH flannel (rather than worsted) suits made... If you have plenty, they don't get overworn and you can enjoy flannel as often as you please instead of keeping it for desert

I have the good luck of having an academic position, which means tweed and flannel over worsted nearly any time. I don't know what it is, but worsted has never really grown on me for winter.