The London Lounge

Gentlemen,

A short while ago I commissioned my first pair of bespoke shoes from a local maker in Copenhagen. Whether they will stand up to comparison with more famous shoe makers (bespoke or RTW) remains to be seen.

However, since starting the process, I've derailed into a shoe-craze and I can hardly get anything done because I spend all my time immersing myself in shoe-lore. This post is a result of that.

The shoes I've ordered are going to be welted (by hand). Shoe makers are far from abundant in Denmark (there are perhaps 2-4), but there is another maker in the vicinity of Copenhagen. LL member Gruto has written about him on his (excellent) blog: http://stiljournalen.blogspot.com/2011/ ... gelse.html

This gent prefers pegging the shoes. That is, as far as I understand, nailing the sole to the shoe with small wooden pegs. Now, I've perused the interweb to learn more, but hardly anything was to be found, save for this snippet, written by (I assume) Marcell Mrsan of Koronya: http://handmadeshoes.wordpress.com/2011 ... struction/ His praise for the pegged construction seems quite high, but he doesn't really compare it to other construction methods.

Therefore I hoped someone here would be able to enlighten me. What are the pros and cons of the pegged construction?

The benefit of a wood pegged shoe is a narrower waist than what can be achieved with a sewn welt. A wood pegged sole would be more rigid than a welt sewn shoe,but re-construction might be more difficult with fewer cobblers familiar with the construction. Cowboy boots use this construction to make a narrower but very rigid waist. That's what my limited understanding of the subject is. Others may have more to add to the subject and correct my comments.

that is my understanding also................

and high quality cowboy boots are almost always pegged

i wouldnt worry about pegged vs welted for shoes

hand welted is still repairable by a cobbler and is better than machine (goodyear) welted for a couple of reasons including the fact that one of the crucial links in a goodyear welted shoe is a less than robust piece of fabric but

more important is the quality and thickness of both the insole and the outsole leather...in fact id argue the insole leather is more important because outsoles can be changed easily

Thank you for your comments. It is especially interesting to learn, that the pegged construction is more rigid. I've decided to try out the pegging shoe maker sometime in the near future so that I can compare in practice instead of theory.

When that time comes, I might pick up this topic again.

A hand stitched sole can be very narrow in the waist and isn't restricted any more than a pegged sole. Both can certainly be as narrow as you like and most certainly can be narrower than is practical - this type of thing is best reserved for exhibition work as for every day wear you need to waist to support the wearer. Pegging of soles probably came about due to Western bookmakers being unable to find decent linen, wax, pitch, tallow etc to twist into thread to sew with but this method does have benefits - threads have a tendency to rot when worn in wet and unreasonable conditions without being properly cared for and I'm not sure many cowboys had butlers.

I have pegged a lot of boots and shoes in my time. Some only in the waist, some full pegged.

Pegging is a decent method of making a shoe or boot. As suggested, when used properly in the waist of a boot it contributes to the shape and the solidity of the boot.

Historically, many boots made in the 19th century, especially in the western part of the US, were full pegged. Even today I get a requests for full pegged boots from SAS and other re-enactors .

Pegging adds rigidity whereever it is used. In the forepart of a shoe or boot it will make the footwear less flexible. Additionally, every time a peg is driven, a hole must be made in both the outsole and the insole. This is done with a pegging awl. Eventually, this takes its toll....the insole becomes so perforated that it can no longer hold a peg. Worse, the upper leather that has been lasted over the insole becomes so ragged that it cannot be replaced or repaired without major reconstruction...and sometimes not even then.

A welted shoe or boot (especially one that is hand welted to a good quality leather insole) may have the welt replaced almost indefinitely and neither the insole nor the upper will be directly affected.

Traditional, high end western (cowboy) boots are pegged in the waist. I like and admire the technique but I will not try to make more of it than is really there.

After the American Civil War the US Army experimented with various techniques for bottoming...among them pegging, brass screws and welting. Welting was clearly superior both for longevity and comfort.

Thanks DWF! Your expertise is most appreciated.

Ps. Welcome to the Lounge.

J.S. Groot wrote:Thanks DWF! Your expertise is most appreciated.

Ps. Welcome to the Lounge.

You're welcome. Glad to help.

And thanks for welcoming me as well.