What to ask/tell my tailor for 3rd suit commission

[bond_and_beyond]

As I have mentioned in some other threads (for example the waistcoat style thread) I am about to commission a charcoal Minnis flannel 3-piece suit.

This will be my third suit from this tailor and I have some tweaks I am thinking of asking of, these include:

* Slimmer sleeves, particularly the sleeve cuffs should be "tighter"
* Less skirt flare
* Less roping (still want a roped shoulder, but want it a "softer roping")

As I am still so new to the game I realise there may be other things I should ask for, I therefore post some photos below of my second commission, a SW navy birdeye. It has a high rise trouser, very little padding in the shoulders (except for the roping) and I am generally very happy with it. As you will see there is still an issue with the shoulders/back as there seems to be a bit of surplus cloth in the back near the shoulders. My tailor has said he will try to remedy this on my next visit.

Any commentary, positive and negative, would be highly appreciated as I need this to be able to get an even better third suit! (and apologies for the sloppily tied tie, the photos were taken over the weekend!)

Thanks,
S

img 9 oct 1.jpg

img 9 oct 2.jpg

img 9 oct 3.jpg

[Concordia]

The only thing worth watching is that little ripple on the back 3 inches under the collar. That's a fixable thing but worth fixing.

Otherwise, you seem to be in pretty good shape. No harm in the tweaks you suggest if that's what you want to do. But it is a very decent-looking suit. Who made?

[DFR]

As Concordia suggests a little tweaking to the back is all it seems to need.


It might be better were you to post photos so that the trousers can be seen without the coat - the full length front and rear will show such things as the fit on thighs and seat which can sometimes need tweaking though.

Who made it?

[Costi]

Dear Bond (and beyond),

Great choice, your charcoal flannel suit.
In addition to what was already suggested, I would also draw the tailor's attention on the upper area of the sleeves. While the cuffs can be tighter, I think the upper sleeve (and cap) could be cut more generously. Or the shoulders slightly extended. Or a combination of these, so that the crease that you can see very well in the side picture (but also in the others) disappears. The rippling in the back between the shoulder blades can easily be addressed even on this coat, I think, with a damp cloth and hot iron (some shrinking). I think you do need a bit more room for your shoulder blades, on the sides, where the sleeve is attached.
Also, as a matter of styling, I would have the coat made 1-2 cm shorter (if it were mine). And I would put a little more drape in the chest (but that's just me...).

[bond_and_beyond]

Thanks all for your helpful feedback, I will take this up with my tailor. Is this something I should address already when I call him to order the suit, or can it best be addressed at the basted fitting?

@ Concordia: See some photos of the trousers without coat below (apologies for the quality, had some lighting issues). I am generally quite please with the pants. They are based on the trousers Sean Connery wore in Dr No (I brought a screenshot to my tailor). What do you all think?

The tailor btw is Graham Browne.

@ Costi: Thanks for your detailed comments, am I understanding you correctly that you find the main problem being where shoulder meets sleeve? Ie there seems to be a problem with the transition from shoulder to sleeve? I have found this problem on several of my RTW suits also, and I think you are right about leaving room for the shoulder blades. I have quite "tricky" (as my tailor puts it) shoulders, and one thing that is not visible in the photos is that my back/spine leans to the right which always leaves some surplus cloth on the right side of the back of the suit. I believe I forgot to straighten my back in the side photo, which may also help explain some of the rippling visible from the side.

The trousers:

img 9 oct 4.jpg

img 9 oct 5.jpg

img 9 oct 6.jpg

Thanks,
S

[DFR]

The trousers look pretty good although there is something at the back of your knee/lower thigh possibly amiss. Maybe posture, may not be.