The London Lounge

I am now in the process of commissioning my third bespoke suit.

My two previous suits are a mid-grey Smith Woolens flannel (SB 2 button) and a Smith Woolens navy birdseye (in approximately the same style), I have also in the works a bespoke overcoat in navy HE Box 32oz cavalry twill (to be lined with woolen lining usually reserved for hunting clothes, according to my tailor).

So for my third suit I want a three piece in either charcoal or grey flannel (perhaps with chalk stripes or PoW checks). I have more or less decided to go for something from J&J Minnis, and have called Huddersfield to have them send me some samples.

However I have yet to decide on the style of waistcoat. Should one go for 5 or six buttons? Should the waistcoat have lapels? Should it be double-breasted (the coat will be SB 2 button)?

Should I perhaps go for the style in the pic below? Does anyone know what this style is called? So many questions

Thanks,
S

So few answers!

We know nothing of you or your circumstances and so it is difficult to advise. Whilst a conventional single breast/no lapel waist coat is 'acceptable' in many situations, a double breasted or a waist coat with lapels might well be considered eccentric. So if you are the senior partner in an old established and fusty law firm then go for the complex, if in a lower position or in a company or firm which prides itself on being modern and innovative then keep it simple.

In any event you have to wear it, no one else, so you must please yourself and meet your own ideas on how you should appear to others.

Thanks DFR. It will be worn for business, and I am fairly low on the ladder so I do think I will go for a "plain vanilla" waistcoat.

I was however tempted by the waistcoat style in the photo, I believe it is a common style on driving suits.

Choices, choices

S

bond_and_beyond wrote:Thanks DFR. It will be worn for business, and I am fairly low on the ladder so I do think I will go for a "plain vanilla" waistcoat.

I was however tempted by the waistcoat style in the photo, I believe it is a common style on driving suits.

Choices, choices

S

Probably the best idea at this stage of your career.

Bond

If you search for "vests", you should find a few good threads with discussion of waistcoats...and the message you will find is the same one delivered by DFR..keep it simple.

Cheers

Michael

I would go with 6 buttons; I believe 6 is the classic number. You're a classicist, aren't you?

I would go for a waistcoat without lapels. Too many lapels flopping around is distracting.
Simple is good. Don't have the waistcoat made too tight; you will get fatter with time. You will.

Finally, I would in future have all sportscoats made with matching waistcoats in the simplest of styles. I can't think of anything more chic.

Also, a quick, RTW path to layering your existing coats and suits for warmth and style is to buy a number of single ply wool vests in a variety of outrageous colours. H&M is a good source.

It is a style much admired in Italy for both suits and sportscoats. Refer to de Sico's films.

Thank you all for your responses.

I have decided to indeed keep it simple. I think I will go with a standard 6-button (with 5 that actually are meant to button and one button on the cutaway part) waistcoat with no lapels.

The last thing remaining to decide before calling my tailor is to choose between two Minnis charcoal flannels, one 400 grams and one 475 grams.

Ah, the delicate choices of bespoke, how did I ever live without them

S

I have just counted the number of bottons on my vests: there are only 5!

Have I been shortchanged? Or are 5 buttons the classic configuration and not 6 on a single breasted vest?

uppercase wrote:I have just counted the number of bottons on my vests: there are only 5!

Have I been shortchanged? Or are 5 buttons the classic configuration and not 6 on a single breasted vest?

Classic lounge suit waistcoat is six buttons, with the bottom one placed so as not to work. Sportier vests have other configurations, including five, all working - I think my postboy vest is like that, with the bottom buttonhole really a seam opening.

dopey wrote:

uppercase wrote:I have just counted the number of bottons on my vests: there are only 5!

Have I been shortchanged? Or are 5 buttons the classic configuration and not 6 on a single breasted vest?

Classic lounge suit waistcoat is six buttons, with the bottom one placed so as not to work. Sportier vests have other configurations, including five, all working - I think my postboy vest is like that, with the bottom buttonhole really a seam opening.

So is my 5 button sportscoat vest still kosher?

Si. I am guessing anything goes on tweedy waistcoats.
Des Merrion cut me a lounge suit waistcoat with only five buttons - he just did away with the non functional sixth. Not Orthodox but maybe still kosher-style.

uppercase wrote:
So is my 5 button sportscoat vest still kosher?

Dear Uppercase,

not only kosher, but glatt kosher

Rather than counting buttons, I would look at overall proportions with respect to your coat and your size.

cheers, David

I did 5 plus one non working button on a vest on my Alden crimson stripe heavy brown tweed. Photo to follow.

dopey wrote:Si. I am guessing anything goes on tweedy waistcoats.
Des Merrion cut me a lounge suit waistcoat with only five buttons - he just did away with the non functional sixth. Not Orthodox but maybe still kosher-style.

I'm glad to learn that 6 is Orthodox and 5 kosher or glatt kosher!

It's very important to get these matters straight, after all.

What is a postboy vest? I thought that was a cap...?

uppercase wrote:

dopey wrote:. . .

What is a postboy vest? I thought that was a cap...?

It is cut a bit longer and has a waist seam. I think there are some pictures of it in my long-ago Phitwell suit thread. I am afraid to look myself because it may show that I cannot count or that I have gone senile.