The Ultimate Flaneur whiskey and cigar suit?

[Rowly]

Inspired by the wonderful etutee posts, I am hoping to get suggestions as to what would make the ideal clubby type suit for the flaneur? The suit should be relaxed and comfortable. It should blend well in the environment of mahogany, leather, tobacco, cut glass, whiskey and glowing firesides. Considerations might include Flannel, heavy worsteds, Cheviot, Saxony etc. Perhaps a West end look, or the most sophisticated of Rus in Urbe. Weight is fine, but the texture should be more for indoor wear than outdoor pursuits. This picture of Niven, although not a suit, captures the mood.

david-niven2.jpg

All suggestions are welcome, including cloth, configuration, etc.Thanks, Rowly.

[alden]

In honor of our friend Etutee.



It depends on what kind of a club you are going to but I would say, this suit in mid gray heavy flannel in either plain weave or herringbone.

Cheers

[Rowly]

Thanks Michael,....that's the kind of idea I'm looking for. I should have mentioned that it should be wearable with brown shoes. I don't have a specific club in mind...but say an olde worlde country house hotel, or hunting lodge with a clubby feel to it, or a Georgian country house... you get the idea?

[alden]

I don't have a specific club in mind...but say an olde worlde country house hotel, or hunting lodge with a clubby feel to it, or a Georgian country house... you get the idea?

Then I would go for the gray herringbone and wear it well

Michael

[Rowly]

Thanks Michael, a nice soft grey cozy flannel herringbone sounds just about right!

[ay329]

Looks like Pistacchio to me

[Despos]

For the Niven look check out the new Harrison's Moonbeam book. 80% of the book are windowpanes and you will find unique color combinations. For windowpane suitings look at the Ariston line.

As for the suiting of the second look, my first thought was a faille cloth in a light matte grey. If you peruse the formal books from most any cloth maker you will find a suitable grey that they show for vests. The light color needs to be matte and dull to fulfill the look. Too hard a worsted won't convey the feeling as well.
My favorite would be flannel in a shade I call Fawn. A melange of grey with tan that looks dirty and dusty. Rare to find but it exists. I have it in the shop with a muted chalk stripe.

[Rowly]

flannel in a shade I call Fawn. A melange of grey with tan that looks dirty and dusty. Rare to find but it exists.

Good advice! I'm always on the lookout for a flannel with autumnal greeny browny tones, as opposed to the bluish tones that grey flannel often has. Also, a charcoal flannel chalk stripe ( or even milled worsted) which is grey but has a brownish cigar ash type of look to it.Thanks for the suggestions, Rowly.

[Concordia]

My favorite would be flannel in a shade I call Fawn. A melange of grey with tan that looks dirty and dusty. Rare to find but it exists. I have it in the shop with a muted chalk stripe.

I have a (2-button) suit that I like made from a worsted flannel in the Harrison's book-- solid, more tan than grey, but the same direction you're heading.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

flannel in a shade I call Fawn. A melange of grey with tan that looks dirty and dusty. Rare to find but it exists.

Good advice! I'm always on the lookout for a flannel with autumnal greeny browny tones, as opposed to the bluish tones that grey flannel often has. Also, a charcoal flannel chalk stripe ( or even milled worsted) which is grey but has a brownish cigar ash type of look to it.Thanks for the suggestions, Rowly.

What about a lovely Bordeaux flannel to echo the great wines one imbibes? I happen to think that a jacket in such would look smashing in the evening - warm and cosy without the business-like austerity of navy and grey. You could do it as a suit for the full effect, or pair it with full-cut tan moleskins and a grenadine or butterfly bowtie.

A burgundy velvet would have been the first choice for such a boulevardier jacket, but velvet marks easily in both silk and cotton forms, and cotton velvet lacks drape and longevity.

To me, flannel has the soft hand of cashmere, the antiqued aura of old mahogany, and the cosy warmth of one's dearest hot water bottle...

[Cooked]

My favorite would be flannel in a shade I call Fawn. A melange of grey with tan that looks dirty and dusty. Rare to find but it exists. I have it in the shop with a muted chalk stripe.

A great suggestion - I have been looking for and failing to find something in fawn for a while...