The London Lounge

I was wondering how tough melton was, as I am told that it is very tough, is it comparable to tweed? What about cleaning it? Imagine a clumsy friend drops tea or something similar, would a dry cleaner be able to clean it? Does it withstand rain, snow etc? How warm is it? Does it 'breathe'? What is it most commonly used for?

Tea ? Grand Old Henry stewart used to make heavy melton overcoats for his brothers shop on Saville Row. The front edges were "Stoted". Very warm. Water resistant. Wind resistant.

All over the world wrote:I was wondering how tough melton was, as I am told that it is very tough, is it comparable to tweed? What about cleaning it? Imagine a clumsy friend drops tea or something similar, would a dry cleaner be able to clean it? Does it withstand rain, snow etc? How warm is it? Does it 'breathe'? What is it most commonly used for?

Dear all over the world,

this is a heavy woollen cloth, used for overcoats and jackets. It is named after Melton Mowbray in central England, formerly a centre of manufacture. (Source: New Oxford Dictionary).

The cloth was also used by the U.S. Navy until the 1970s, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pea_coat

cheers, david

Wow, thanks David. If it was used by the US Navy then it must be really a tough cloth. I'd assume it's easy to clean too since they probably didn't have the opportunity to replace their coats too often in the navy? I'm having a coat made in Melton and my tailor told me it was the toughest cloth he had but I didn't know it was that tough! Hopefully it will last me several decades!

All over the world wrote: I'd assume it's easy to clean too since they probably didn't have the opportunity to replace their coats too often in the navy?

Brush it, wash it, mistreat it
This is heavy duty workwear cloth. You basically need a good brush to keep this cloth in shape.

cheers, david

The British Warm is often made using 30 oz melton. A good heavy-duty fabric.

It is also used for hunting coats. Box cloth is another tough one: it used to be used for coaching coats.

NJS wrote:It is also used for hunting coats. Box cloth is another tough one: it used to be used for coaching coats.

Hunting coats? You mean those beautiful red coats that can survive mud without any trouble?

All over the world wrote:

NJS wrote:It is also used for hunting coats. Box cloth is another tough one: it used to be used for coaching coats.

Hunting coats? You mean those beautiful red coats that can survive mud without any trouble?

Yes. They might be in various colours, depending on the hunt, or in black.
NJS

Thank you all. It seems like I picked the right fabric!

When in high school around 1970, I acquired a U.S. Navy-issue pea coat from an army-navy surplus store. Mine had seen duty (there was a sewn USN owner tag inside the pocket). I can attest that the heavy melton was practically impermeable and indestructible. Though it was probably Viet Nam-era kit, it would have been perfectly suited for standing watch on a flying bridge in high latitudes. After a decade or so of hard use (beyond that given to it by its original owner), I finally donated it to charity--not because it was any less functional, but because it had finally worn down to the weave at the cuffs and collar. No pea coat I've seen in the last 30 years holds a candle to that one, as regards either cut or cloth. If somewhere there was new old stock in my size, I'd grab it in a shot. Even now, when my outerwear needs are more various and (in some cases) more refined, it would still be a very practical and handsome coat.

Simon A wrote:The British Warm is often made using 30 oz melton. A good heavy-duty fabric.

I wonder who weaves that. H E Box's is in the high 'teens and comes in a variety of colors. The wife was eyeing some for winter skirt suits.

yachtie wrote:

Simon A wrote:The British Warm is often made using 30 oz melton. A good heavy-duty fabric.

I wonder who weaves that. H E Box's is in the high 'teens and comes in a variety of colors. The wife was eyeing some for winter skirt suits.

Dear Yachtie,

I believe it is H. E. Box, you can always ask:
H. E. Box Ltd
Surrey Close
Weymouth
Dorset
DT4 9GD
Tel 01305 839123
Fax 01305 839338
E-Mail sales@he-box.co.uk

I did some more research and found this article: http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/british-warm/

Also, New & Lingwood has an overcoat RTW: http://www.newandlingwood.com/product.php?id=916

cheers, david

Hi Yachtie,

The Harrisons of Edinburgh coating book has a 30 oz khaki melton for British Warm coats, 83929.

Also, Hainsworth make such fabrics for the Canadian Army, in scarlet.

Simon A wrote:Hi Yachtie,

The Harrisons of Edinburgh coating book has a 30 oz khaki melton for British Warm coats, 83929.

Also, Hainsworth make such fabrics for the Canadian Army, in scarlet.

Thanks Simon! Harrison's it is! I've seen the Abimelech/Hainsworth range and it's pretty coarse stuff. Box had previously sent me their melton range (all in the teens) and the wife has taken the book for her winter wear