The London Lounge

Many of us here have trousers made for wearing with braces complete with fish tail back etc.

Is there any advice or consensus on how far above the navel they should sit? I currently have mine at 3" above - having let this increase slightly recently. Is this too high or not high enough? I certainly find this a comfortable point more so than lower but am thinking of going even higher but do wonder about the appearance. For the record, button fly fitted.

Thoughts would be welcome.

DFR - 3" above the navel? That would be just under my rib cage!

Mine site about an inch south of the navel or maybe closer but I think that it's a function of anatomy. They need to be above the hips and high enough to work with the belly, the waist band occupying the space between the hip bones and rib cage. Like a lot of things in the tailoring world, measurements aren't always helpful as the conformation of every gentlemen is different. It is all about balance and the tailor's job is to bring that to the equation.

I think that there are enough photos of good trousers on the Lounge to enable you to take a view on this and you'll find the comments generous and helpful if you post some of your own.

DDM

I have a few pairs of trousers that might be considered to have a high rise in that they more or less cover my navel and follow the curve of my waist instead of breaking it. Since they aren’t made for braces they do tend to sack during pre-lunch hours and rather often the shirt or tip of the tie appears from underneath the jacket. I guess the lesson here is that the rise should be about as high as the buttoning point of one’s jacket – wherever that might or should be .

T.K. wrote:the rise should be about as high as the buttoning point of one’s jacket – wherever that might or should be .

Quite so, both should be at the natural waist.

Costi wrote:

T.K. wrote:the rise should be about as high as the buttoning point of one’s jacket – wherever that might or should be .

Quite so, both should be at the natural waist.

Thanks TK/Costi.

I am assuming that with reference to a three button coat that this would be at the centre button and that suggests a very comfortable 4" above the navel, which is where I was heading. With a little imagination that does seem to correct both for fit and appearance and I will implement this.

I personally wear my trousers at my navel or just above and it gives me a nice division of upper and lower half. It may just be the way my body is made but 3 or 4 inches above the navel would look comical on me as I have a shorter torso, most people would find it strange or 'old mannish'. If I were wearing a waistcoat or double breasted coat then I would not mind but it really is your preference and what feels more comfortable!

DFR

As with most style issues there are no hard and fast rules here. I worked with my tailors and trouser makers testing trousers with various rises until I found the one that suited my own physique best (to my own eye.) If you have a long torso and short legs, you might very well require a rise 3" above your navel.

Why not post a picture so we can try to give you better advice?

Cheers

Michael

JDMills wrote:It may just be the way my body is made but 3 or 4 inches above the navel would look comical on me as I have a shorter torso, most people would find it strange or 'old mannish'.

I agree that this look (though comfortable as it may be) is best avoided if style is a concern:

Costi wrote:

JDMills wrote:It may just be the way my body is made but 3 or 4 inches above the navel would look comical on me as I have a shorter torso, most people would find it strange or 'old mannish'.

I agree that this look (though comfortable as it may be) is best avoided if style is a concern:

I entirely agree Costi. Fortunately my torso appears to be such that this does not arise. No, Michael, no one wants to see my torso, that would be cruelty!

I worked with my tailors and trouser makers testing trousers with various rises until I found the one that suited my own physique best (to my own eye.)

I have done this also. What I found was that getting it in the right place to please my eye was fairly straightforward, what turned out to be more important for me was where it feels satisfying. Even if it looks fine, if it feels not quite right my dissatisfaction will shine through and have an adverse effect on the ensemble.