The London Lounge

Roman's excellent post about rejuvenation of the bespoke arts in Poland reminded me of how similar the situation is in many countries of the region.

In the days of the Russian Empire, the well-dressed Georgian man might be dressed in European frock coat and top hat for some occasions, and in the traditional Caucasian "chokha" garment for other occasions. Seventy years of communism took their toll on tailoring of fine western garments, with almost no artisans left other than hatmakers, and chokha tailors also were few and far between until recently.



A Georgian historian and entrepreneur, Luarsab Toganidze, has exhaustively researched the designs and construction of chokha from different regions of the country, and now sells them in his Tbilisi boutique, Samoseli Pirveli. Most items are RTW, made of European flannel or linen, but he also does MTM garments and some bespoke accessories. A short report on his workshop and business is given here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq5eOpeEki4

It would be interesting to hear from people in Poland, Hungary, other parts of Central Europe and the Balkans, to follow what rejuvenation there is both in western-style tailoring and regional/national dress. For example, I know that there are very few makers of cifraszur in Hungary anymore, and I wonder if new apprentices for making such garments are being recruited.

Simon A, I can sketch out the situation in Russia -- or at least in Moscow.

The good news is that there is a resurgent interest in male elegance.

The bad news is that those who able to afford fine clothes are very well served by sellers of uber-expensive Italian (or quasi-Italian in some cases) ready-made wares.

Some bespoke houses tried to make regular visits to Moscow -- Kilgour, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman come to mind. All failed. Italian RTW (or MTM for "sophisticated" customers) rules.

As for bespoke ateliers, there are few. Quality levels vary -- starting from those who outsource to China (but don't tell their customers!) and ending with proper bespoke done in house. Unfortunately, a common thread here is lack of stylistic education... they can cut, they can fit, but end result still leaves much to be desired. That's why they are not so popular -- as I understand, their main business is hard-to-fit customers, not seekers of elegance.

I know, a pretty grim picture.

Andrey

Thanks Andrey, it is a similar situation here, but the luxury branded boutiques here seem to be eternally empty; I think the well-heeled shop in Paris. There are a handful of old tailors, using Turkish textile and fused construction, as well as travelling Indian tailors from Hong Kong who have MTM workshops in south China. The local Armenian capmakers do quite a good job, if you like a large cap.

Simon, I have on a good authority that most of these "boutiques" cater for a small circle of regular customers. Thus, it is not uncommon to find suits only in specific sizes in a particular shop!

This might explain emptiness. This, and outrageous prices, too.

Andrey

You may be right, perhaps just the family members of the franchise owner use it as a private dressing room, and the high price tags are to frighten away hoi polloi

andreyb wrote:SUnfortunately, a common thread here is lack of stylistic education... they can cut, they can fit, but end result still leaves much to be desired. That's why they are not so popular -- as I understand, their main business is hard-to-fit customers, not seekers of elegance.

That applies pretty well over here, too. Skill is still available, but talent is truly rare. It takes a customer with clear ideas and good comunication skills to get good results.