The London Lounge

Hello all
Soon I will have a new summer suit made, in lightweight wool (super 120, 225 gr/m). The question is: Is there a lining I could ask for, that is more breatable or summer-like than others? I hope you can help me.

/Soren

Jeffrey Diduch has made a number of posts on different forms of warm-weather jacket construction, which might be useful for your project
http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/sea ... 0tailoring

Welcome to the Lounge, Soren!
Contrary to a widespread belief (kept alive by superfine cloth weavers), weight and breathability of a cloth are not directly related. Breathability is based on porosity, while a fine cloth takes a fine yarn to make and that calls for a tight weave, which is air-proof. The ideal summer cloth is more loosely woven with a less fine yarn, such as fresco or linen. Such a cloth is best tailored without a lining, except over the shoulder blades and down the sleeves.
In your case, I don't expect the lining to make much of a difference in breathability, since the cloth itself is probably pretty airtight already. However, I would go for Bemberg (a cellulosic material) which is, at least, able to wick the sweat away form the body and evaporate it (like cotton), while being slippery enough to keep the coat from clinging to the shirt.

Thank you so much for your helpful replys. I will probably go for the Bemberg, which is – as far as I remember – what my tailor provides as standard anyway. My suit will be SB, so with the possibility to open the coat I guess there's still hope ahead of not getting completely saoked in the summerheat

Soren

You might consider an Ermazine lining, a lighter weight variety viscose, for your lightweight suit. The one sold by the trimmers RJ Weldons is a good example.

Cheers

Michael

My tailor counsels for lining when commissioning coats with open weave or "see-through" fabrics like frescos or mohair because he argues that, without full lining, the shirt's pattern may well be visible beneath the coat. I am skeptical about this, so I wonder if any of you with open-weave frescos sans lining have ever noticed such a thing?

This is some immediate importance because a black Tonic (90%) mohair evening suit is in the works and the lining will be going on in a couple of weeks. Should I block it and go to quarter lining?

If the cloth is black, very porous, against a snow white shirt, your tailor may be right. The only way to make sure is to test it.

J. Cogburn, Costi is right. Of course, you could probably get away with an unlined DJ in an open-weave cloth if you chose to wear a full-back waistcoat . . . .

The 13 oz Brisa doesn't have a major issue with transparency when unlined/quarter lined (although it is best to have a sleeve lining of similar colour to the cloth), but some of the lighter frescos may.

alden wrote:Soren

You might consider an Ermazine lining, a lighter weight variety viscose, for your lightweight suit. The one sold by the trimmers RJ Weldons is a good example.

Cheers

Michael

I've had good luck with Ermazine linings. they provide good ventilation while giving a consistent backing to more "sheer" cloths.

I use Emerzine for all my coats now. It is airy, smooth and very durable. Highly recommended.

kolecho wrote:I use Emerzine for all my coats now. It is airy, smooth and very durable. Highly recommended.

Good to hear as I just recently bought a stack of Ermazines at discount to use for future commissions. Seems like it can give even tweeds that extra tiny bit of circulation which is always welcome.

Slewfoot wrote: I just recently bought a stack of Ermazines

Is it something readily available at cloth stores (or on the web even?) or is it difficult to source?

JS

Any Trimmer (RJ Weldon) or distributor (Harrisons) will have a good supply of Ermazine linings.

I have used both Ermazine from Weldons and Bembergs from my tailor's stock. What are the differences between the two? I have been told by Weldons that very few S.R. tailors order anything other than Ermazine from them, for suits....my feeling was that it is less shiney and perhaps a bit more similar to silk than Bemberg... Weldons don't have a big choice of colours in Ermazine. Is Bemberg more usual for suits in heavier cloths? Are there different weights of Bemberg?.. and what about satin...would it ever be used for suiting? I have little knowledge in linings...so clear explainations on the merits of each would be very helpful.!...thanks...Rowly.