Side adjuster buckles

[J.S. Groot]

I visited my tailor today for the second first fitting of my first bespoke suit. I'm very happy with how it's coming along. It's the LL RAF flannel and it makes up beautifully.

I bought enough to make an additional pair of trousers. The first are with belt loops, something he insisted on making. I'm okay with that, since there'll be two pairs and he has no problems with making the second without loops. However! He hasn't made a pair of trousers with side adjusters in years, partly because no one wants them apparently and partly because he doesn't have a source for the buckles. He wasn't even sure he knew what I was talking about when I said I'd like straps rather than the elasticated button tube thing. We agreed to try and experiment a little, so for my next fitting, I'll bring a photo showing strap adjusters and we'll see if he'll be able to make anything from it.

We'll need some buckles, though. Anyone knows of a supplier? Preferably European.

cheers.

[Costi]

My first suggestion would be a local notions shop.
The side straps are not hard to make, just an extra hassle some tailors would rather do without... if the customers are not keen on them
Second FIRST fitting, you say?...

[DFR]

I visited my tailor today for the second first fitting of my first bespoke suit. I'm very happy with how it's coming along. It's the LL RAF flannel and it makes up beautifully.

I bought enough to make an additional pair of trousers. The first are with belt loops, something he insisted on making. I'm okay with that, since there'll be two pairs and he has no problems with making the second without loops. However! He hasn't made a pair of trousers with side adjusters in years, partly because no one wants them apparently and partly because he doesn't have a source for the buckles. He wasn't even sure he knew what I was talking about when I said I'd like straps rather than the elasticated button tube thing. We agreed to try and experiment a little, so for my next fitting, I'll bring a photo showing strap adjusters and we'll see if he'll be able to make anything from it.

We'll need some buckles, though. Anyone knows of a supplier? Preferably European.

cheers.

Seems somewhat 'odd' that he has not made any for years.Who is this man with restricted knowledge? That he "insisted" that you have belt loops is also a marker to avoid the man. not his place to insist on anything.

[J.S. Groot]

Second FIRST fitting, you say?...

Since the initial first fitting, he'd been nagged by the thought that things were not completely satisfactory. I'd brought Gruto for my first fitting; he introduced me to the tailor and I thought it'd be nice to have a second pair of eyes. We discussed cloth and the demise of tailoring and my tailor felt that for his part too much attention had been paid on discussing and not entirely enough on fitting. So he called me again and asked my to drop by. I did, and as it turned out, things were looking very good. I don't mind spending some extra time at his workshop, as long as I feel he's on top of things. He is.

[J.S. Groot]

Seems somewhat 'odd' that he has not made any for years.Who is this man with restricted knowledge? That he "insisted" that you have belt loops is also a marker to avoid the man. not his place to insist on anything.

"Insist" was not the right word. I think it was a case of slightly uncertain first-time customer vs. slightly old fashioned and stubborn craftsman.

[smudger]

To add my 10pence worth here I believe belt loops to be the worst thing to wear on a pair of trousers. My reason, well after getting the right cutter his explanation for side adjusters and not belt loops was thus. A pair of trousers should be cut on to the individual with no room for additional cloth around the waist yet not making the wearer feel uncomfortable and restricted so there should be no need to wear a belt. For me a belt is just a clunk of leather and metal that when visible ruins the look of a well cut suit, it just doesn't need to be there.

Aesthetically gone is the awful situation of the accompanying belt buckle! to reveal the beautiful cloth which has been chosen for the suit. I always feel that the belt is a bit high street........

A tailor that doesn't know what side adjusters are? mmm?

[J.S. Groot]

To add my 10pence worth here...

I agree. Fortunately, the trousers sit perfectly on my waist and I doubt I'll even need a belt. But we'll see. They can always be removed.

[Gruto]

I do follow that side adjusters can look very chic but a pair of trousers with a belt may do the same if you have flat stomach. Are shoe laces bad too?

The tailor that Groot has visited is an old and rather stubborn gentleman. He is not a world class tailor but he and two others are the only bespoke tailors left in the small Kingdom of Denmark. Despite his lack of virtuosity, he is able to make a comfortable and well-balanced suit. I think that the young Groot has shown the right spirit going to the local bespoke tailor not taking the first flight to London or Naples (It reminds me of a visit to the Louvre some years ago. There was a young American couple. "Where is the Mona Lisa? Where is the Mona Lisa? they screamed at the service people. To them this extraordinary museum was all about one painting.)

I can't say much about the jacket yet but the trousers fit very well. The tailor is good at trousers, although he doesn't like side adjusters

[Costi]

Groot, you shouldn't worry much, it's your first bespoke suit, enjoy the process and learn. You have all the time in the world to refine your quest later on - after all, you should have a pair of bespoke belted trousers made before you ever decide you don't like them (or don't prefer them)
Gruto, do you think that side adjusters are chic? I just don't like the belt and don't need it, flat stomach or not. The adjusters are almost invisible due to their position, particularly with a coat on. They could even miss altogether if your weight doesn't vary much.
I agree wholeheartedly regarding Groot's choice and I believe you did well, Gruto, to guide him in this direction, as I understand you played a part in introducing him and the tailor to each other. It's not at all a matter of (local) patriotism, it is just the most sensible solution for a man that is not after a sartorial one-night stand. Again, there is time for experimenting and trying to see if the grass is greener and sweeter on the other side of the fence. The Mona Lisa story comparison seems apt

[Gruto]

Gruto, do you think that side adjusters are chic?

Well, not the side adjusters but the clean, simple look they create.