The London Lounge

My first bespoke suit will be delivered next week (a double breasted 11 oz. French Navy Blue chalk stripe in Anglia cloth) and it's time for another commission. I have in mind a midnight blue mohair for evenings out, speaking engagements, and travel given the legendary ability of mohair to resist wrinkes (extremely useful for 2-3 day business trips). I am eyeing Tonik cloth (90% mohair, 10% wool if memory serves). I know it is expensive, but I'm willing to pay if its that much better than the alternatives. Is it?

What are your thoughts about this cloth? I have an appointment with my tailor (Will Field in Washington, DC) next week and would like to make a decision then. Thoughts?

a

Are you talking about the Dormeiul Tonik? In their current book, the 90% mohair is gorgeous cloth with lots of depth in its color. IIRC there are two shades of blue and the darkest is quite a bit lighter than midnight. The swatch is best seen in daylight to notice the variations of color. I have a suit made from this and it is scratchy, so consider lining your trousers depending on your tolerance.

Yes, Dormeiul. I was looking through the book a couple of weeks ago at my tailor's shop. The darkest in the book was indeed midnight. I seem to recall three or four shades of blue. Since the primary use for the suit will be nights out, I want as dark a midnight blue as possible.

I have not seen the most recent Tonik offering. The old Tonik was a very heavy (20 ozs) mohair that was like a bullet proof vest, very hard, dry and scratchy. In other words, the type of cloth we like here. I had the chance to see some vintage "LessLan" mohair recently (the competitor to Tonik in the 70s and 80s.) It was a heavy mohair suiting commissioned by H Lesser. The cloth is (was) tremendous.

The Japanese are buying up everything they can find of these old mohairs, and it was reported to me that Americans are not too fond of them. What a pity, since American taste has determined what UK weavers made for the last few decades. I suppose now they will be more influenced by Chinese tastes. Buy your cloth now!

From what I have been told the newest iteration of Tonik is a lighter, more civilized version of a true classic.

I currently have the Dormeuil Tonik in navy being made up as a 3-piece with peak lapels. This is my first commission with a wool/mohair mix, although my tailor has recommended this cloth to me since we began working together. My initial impressions of the color and hand of the fabric are positive: importantly, I did not sense the "scratchiness" factor cited by some.

I have a forward fitting this coming weekend and will post a pic.

Was back at my tailor's (Will Field) yesterday. Turns out that there is indeed only one blue in the 90% mohair Tonik - and it is a decidedly lighter shade of navy. There was, however, a black (as well as a very dark brown, similar I would guess to Oscar Wilde's famous dinner jacket fabric). I pulled the trigger and went with the black, a really rich and beautiful cloth. I changed my mind and abandoned the idea of a double-breasted and went with a 1-button so that the suit could be "dressed down" when that might be called for. Otherwise, peak lapels and no vents; pretty much a dinner jacket without the silk lapel facings or silk trouser piping (and thanks to Will over at ASW for the inspiration; http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/200 ... -suit.html). Should be ready for my weekend in Las Vegas in late May.

The cloth is about 9-10 oz., decidedly lighter than the older Tonik that ran from 14-18 oz. So that largely explains the more modern, "civilized" version of the cloth that Michael is talking about. It has a beautiful, sparkling shene in the sunlight but somehow manages to avoid the suggestion that the wearer is an extra from "Goodfellas."

So the plunge has been taken!

Couple of basted fittings over the weekend in NYC. I'm pleased with my tailor's first execution of a SB peak lapel; it has character yet isn't overly dramatic. I'm also enthusiastic about this fabric she recommended to me. Others have cautioned about the "scratchiness" of mohair, but at least in this formulation I'm not bothered by it at all. I love the crease-resistance and breathability, and it has quite a lot of body given its relative light weight. The color as well is a "true" dark blue, rich yet without the shininess typically associated with mohair. This has the potential to be an ideal travel suit.

2BSB peak lapel suit in Dormeuil Tonik 2000 (10.5 oz - 70% worsted, 30% mohair)

Mohair? Yes by all means!

I was 19 years old in 1986 when my late father took me to a tailor to make a suit for my sister's wedding. My father insisted that I choose a Mohair suit. And thank god he did. I still have the suit and it still looks like it has just be delivered freshly ironed from the tailor.

I would choose mohair over anything for a suit.

There is good and there is evil in the world. Evil wears Loro Piana Good wears Mohair (and tweeds and camel.....)

While we are on the topic of mohair, is anyone here familiar with the cloth offered by William Halstead?

I am considering several summer suits made from their 60% mohair / 40% wool fabric since my tailor showed me the bunch. Some really nice colours there, including all shades of blue I can think of and several light and medium browns, including tobacco. I have also seen some 90% and 100% mohairs at the back of the book, with a really substantial hand and a quite open weave - mostly blue and black, from what I recall.

If anyone had any experience with the cloth or had a suit made from it, I would be grateful if they could share their insight.

My understanding was that Dormueil was pretty much out of the 90% mohair Tonik. Mine in in the dark green. One of my favorites for spring/fall. Unless Dormueil re-releases it I'll keep going to Harrisons for my mohair fix.

Great outfit and a very nice shade! (I'm partial to green)
Is the weave similar to a fresco?
Saluti

M.P.

Not as open woven as a fresco. It's a smooth finish.

CatGrey wrote:While we are on the topic of mohair, is anyone here familiar with the cloth offered by William Halstead?

I am considering several summer suits made from their 60% mohair / 40% wool fabric since my tailor showed me the bunch. Some really nice colours there, including all shades of blue I can think of and several light and medium browns, including tobacco. I have also seen some 90% and 100% mohairs at the back of the book, with a really substantial hand and a quite open weave - mostly blue and black, from what I recall.

If anyone had any experience with the cloth or had a suit made from it, I would be grateful if they could share their insight.

Halstead has an excellent reputation. I'd like to try them myself.

alden wrote: The Japanese are buying up everything they can find of these old mohairs, and it was reported to me that Americans are not too fond of them. What a pity, since American taste has determined what UK weavers made for the last few decades.

Where could you get any of this heavier Tonik? Despite a barrage of e-mails sent out, I can't seem to find any at all.