The London Lounge

Gentlemen , this has just finished and I have already enjoyed wearing it ...except .....




.... as you can see in the last photo there is a break on the right sleeve just under the shoulder .. Now , I get this sometimes on my coats !!! Any thoughts ??
thanks
Vassilis

Do you commission your jackets in Athens...is it with the same tailor...or do you use different tailors in Athens based on the project?

Great jacket, congratulations!
The sleeve head is a little tight when you get that kind of dimple. Perhaps having the sleeve made a little wider at the top or having the shoulders extended a little further would sort it out. Not a big issue, though - the coat looks excellent, enjoy it!
How is the cloth, what did I miss?

Do you commission your jackets in Athens...is it with the same tailor...or do you use different tailors in Athens based on the project?

ay329, I have been using the same tailor for the last 5 years , so everything I have posted on the LL since then is made by him and me .

Great jacket, congratulations!
The sleeve head is a little tight when you get that kind of dimple. Perhaps having the sleeve made a little wider at the top or having the shoulders extended a little further would sort it out. Not a big issue, though - the coat looks excellent, enjoy it!
How is the cloth, what did I miss?

Costi, thank you for your complements ...to be honest I thought it was the other way around , meaning I thought (taking under consideration that the shoulder are completely padless ) that the shoulder needed shortening ! I'm glad you like it anyway and I do not think is too much of a problem myself ,but I would like to be able to fix it if I can on a next project.

cheers
Vassilis

yialabis wrote:everything I have posted on the LL since then is made by him and me

That's the spirit!

As for the shoulder dimple, it is a sign of tightnes, you need a bit more fullness in the head of the sleeve. If you bring in the shoulders, the sleevehead will be even tighter. Perhaps a professional could correct me if I am wrong.

I have this problem on the left sleeve of some of my A&S coats. A cutter at another SR firm looked at it when I was getting measured up, pulled the back of the coat in line with the sleeve dimple outwards and then the sleeve dimple disappeared. In my case, it seems that the upper back allowance is insufficient and caused some tightness around the upper sleeve because the sleeve was reaching around too much into the back.

Perhaps your other half can help you to try this back-pulling experiment on your coat?

- C

...

many thanks m-lan !

V

Yes, Fine Jacket yialabis; especially like the colour.
I have had this dimple problem too,which manifest itself ( with me ) as an uncomfortable tightness when driving.I have asked in the past but have always been given a dismissive reply...so was delighted to read Costis reason which seems perfectly logical, and was going to ask for a fuller sleeve next time. Now we have cdo who has also had this problem and another perfectly logical solution. So thank you for yet more food for thought ; Maybe one or a combination will work to sort our problem.

It would be great to hear from one our our professional tailors on this issue of the dimple. What causes it and especially how to fix it....or what instructions to give to cutter so that it doesn't appear the next time.

Yialabis
Can you please disclose the name of your tailor in Athens?
This would be a precious secret because you have obviously spent time and energy to "train" him in this style of tailoring.

Levantine ,

I have many times disclosed the name of my tailor in previous threads - I have also posted photos . Unfortunately he has officially retired and closed his tailor shop a year ago. He has kept two clients to work with and he works for home . Are you in Athens ? Maybe I can convince Mr George to work with one more client .. .

Vassilis

yes I am in Athens, the city where all the good tailors are retiring and new ones are not apperaring!!!!

That dimple is indeed caused by some tightness in the top of the sleeve crown. And extra length. It is possible that your tailor took in your right shoulder a bit but kept the original sleeve! That means that the sleeve crown is higher than necessary!
Try this: Pin away the fold that shows up and check if it gets a cleaner look.
Of course, it is also possible that the pitch of the arm does not match the pitch of the sleeve. Might have to come around a bit.
In that case another fold should show up at the back of the sleeve.