The London Lounge

I have recently been browsing on Harrisons' website and have noticed their Multi-Millionaire line which is a pure cashmere and vicuña blend. I then asked for a swatch sample to be sent to me.

The cloths seems to be in a more conservative design but very soft and smooth when handled. Although as the name of the cloth suggests of a pricey tag, it is far more reasonable then what Loro Piana has to offer.

I would be interested to hear if any fellow members had any experiences with this line of cloth to share and any thoughts on whether this line of cloth is desirable.

Cheers,

Watson

I have real reservations about those cloths' ability to hold up.

Odd, but I just discussed vicuna cloth with Brian Lishak at Richard Anderson's. He says that the vicuna that was reintroduced a few years ago simply isn't the same thing he used to work with years ago. The vicunas of old were wild animals, shot for their fleeces. Something about living in the wild made for a superior cloth. Nowadays the vicunas are farmed, and are not killed, and the cloth is simply inferior.

Not long ago I went to Loro Piana and held up a vicuna sweater alongside a cashmere one. I couldn't really tell the difference.


Seems a shame to spend so much money on a bespoke garment if it won't last more than a few seasons.

C

Luxury fabric blends of cashmere and vicuna for a bespoke lounge suit or an overcoat are a waste of time and money. The only benefit from such a commission accrues to the tailor and raises questions about his integrity. A really good tailor will steer you in the direction of cloth that has longevity and may outlive you, if you rotate your wardrobe properly. Bypass the allure of cashmere and vicuna; the colorways and patterns are very limited and, while the cloth has a soft hand, it simply has no guts.

JMB

I must say, however, that my first commission was a heavy wool and cashmere tweed odd jacket made for me almost 20 years ago. I still wear it. The thing seems to be bulletproof. It has a very soft hand, refuses to crease, and has held its shape perfectly over the years. I wish I could remember who made the cloth--I'd get another. I don't know the proportions--whether it's predominantly wool or cashmere. There is some great stuff available--or was, 20 years ago. I'd still be skeptical of anything that arrives on the scene with lots of fanfare. At any rate it would be a good idea to make a study of it before ordering.

If the Dunsford brothers at LBD/Harrisons put their name on a product you know it is excellent. But cashmere has inherent qualities (light, soft, warm) that are also defects (durability) fully mentioned in the previous posts.

There are no cashmeres on the market like the 21 ozs Etna or 36 ozs Everest cashmeres we have experimented with here in the LL. The Etna has been banged and worn hard by some real world travelers for a few years now and just gets better. I hope some day we can rally enough interest to make the Everest in at least one run. The one and only overcoat that was made from the cloth is "beyond belief" according to its owner. I hope to have photos to follow!! (Hint hint, a gentle reminder if you are reading this....!)

Cheers

Michael

Carl:

If your wool and cashmere odd jacket has withstood the test of time for a couple of decades, chances are the cloth is predominantly made of wool with a lesser amount of cashmere added. Wool woven twenty years ago feels different from its current counterpart. The same goes for cashmere; it just doesn't have the same hand. M'thinks sheep and goats have been over domesticated, and the buyers
for luxury blend fabrics are being royaly fleeced.

JMB

Thanks Michael! I hope we can see this Everest Cashmere soon! And thanks guys for these valuable advices, it is a shame that these precious fabrics are over domesticated. I wish to have a cashmere overcoat that could be passed down to my son and to my grandson. Something valuable and durable.

Watson

alden wrote:If the Dunsford brothers at LBD/Harrisons put their name on a product you know it is excellent. But cashmere has inherent qualities (light, soft, warm) that are also defects (durability) fully mentioned in the previous posts.

There are no cashmeres on the market like the 21 ozs Etna or 36 ozs Everest cashmeres we have experimented with here in the LL. The Etna has been banged and worn hard by some real world travelers for a few years now and just gets better. I hope some day we can rally enough interest to make the Everest in at least one run. The one and only overcoat that was made from the cloth is "beyond belief" according to its owner. I hope to have photos to follow!! (Hint hint, a gentle reminder if you are reading this....!)

Cheers

Michael

On a related topic: is anyone familiar with Wain Shiell cashmere and vicuña blends? My tailor is getting rid of a suit length of this cloth and I might be tempted. It is a few (15) years old and of course it is very soft. I usually think that cashmere is good for knitwear and heavy coats; the same for vicuña . But in this case I may consider it. I am not worried with durability but with the cloth ability to keep shape. Any views? Also, how hood is Wain Shiell? It is part of Scabal but there is not much information on it. Many thanks.

I would suggest it is not a suiting cloth but might make an excellent odd jacket. (Cashmere and vicuna being too soft for trousers.) Wain Shiell was a good distributor of good cloth.

Cheers

Dear Michael,
Thank you for your comment and advice. I also think that the trousers could be an issue because the cloth is too "mellow", and so does my tailor. But a jacket is definitely a temptation, since the Wain Shiell cloth looks great.
Best
S.

John H. Watson, M.D wrote: I would be interested to hear if any fellow members had any experiences with this line of cloth to share and any thoughts on whether this line of cloth is desirable.

I know it´s unfair to judge a person by its name, and maybe it´s just the provincial in me, but I know I wouldn´t feel that comfortable commissioning something with the label Multi Millionaire in it.
Obviously I´m not the target audience of the merchant´s marketing strategy for that line.

The old 'Millionaire' cashmere was a good one: I have a coat that is almost 20 years old and it's still going strong.
Speaking of cashmere plus vicuna, I have a spring coat that was a devil to sew (my taylor told me) but a pleasure to wear; definitively not an everyday coat.
I'm happy to have one, don't need a third

Johnstons Cashmere also.

I have just received Harrissons 9-1/2 oz Regency suiting samples.
It is a very very nice cloth and I will use it. Good hand.

Is that sort of a lightweight "Fine Classics" book (or more urbane "Frontier" collection)?