The London Lounge

Hello,

I have just commissioned a light green with colour flecks Donegal Tweed jacket with dark brown Gabardine trousers at my tailor in Warsaw, Poland. It will have slanting pockets with flaps, two vents, 3 buttons, drape cut (lounge version), broad shoulders, notched lapel, cuffed sleeve. Trousers will be flat front with 4.5 cm turn-ups.

Some time ago I found this picture on Internet and it was an inspiration for my current project. I believe the cuffed sleeve on that jacket has Edwardian roots. Have you got any more information about them? They have not been in fashion for a long time. I can only think of Teddy Boys from 1950's but living in Warsaw will mean no inappropriate links with that movement. I wonder how they will look like with working buttons? Have you got any experience with cuffed sleeves on your suits? What's the correct length? Is the name 'bishop's sleeve' correct for them? Finally is it ok to have cuffed trousers with cuffed sleeve jacket? Not that I am overtly bothered with rules. My tweed jacket will have two vents, instead of traditional one and trousers with turn-ups will have no pleats . But it is good to know rules before we start breaking them.

Btw. Do you know the origin of that photo?

I'm pretty sure that the cloth in that photo is the Dashing Tweeds McDougal Check, but I don't know who cut the suit. From the setting &c. that might be a display piece from The London Cut exhibition a number of years ago, but that's purely guesswork on my part.

"Turn-back cuff" is what I typically hear that style called.

That suit is to be found here: http://www.dashingtweeds.co.uk/dt/blog/page/4/ - Apparently the suit is displayed in Tokyo. Marvelous cloth if you ask me.

Dear Zaki, I remember there was an interesting discussion on this topic at:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... 1a0f94d13a

Gents,

Thanks for answers. I still have not decided whether to have a laid-on cuff or a formed one. There seems to be a consensus that deeper cuff is better. 3 inches has been suggested. People tend to agree that it is better to have turn-ups on trousers with turn-backs on jacket. Secondly this style was really in fashion in UK in late 40's early 50's.

In a recent article in The Rake, Dario Carnera, a cutter at Huntsman, recommended the cuffs be the same depth as the jacket's pocket flaps (should it have any). Just another opinion.

My 1st jacket with turn back cuffs.

Beautiful stuff.

Dear Fabrics,

the turn back cuff is very well executed, and the cloth very suitable for it. What I think is less ideal is the pink thread used for a button hole and on the sleeve. A turn back cuff is already quite a statement. It is important to keep all the rest restrained. If this would be my coat, even the buttons would be dark chocolate brown matte horn... Just a thought.

Cheers, David

Many thanks for your comments.
12 other guys and I opted for that choice of contrasting buttonholes threads.
I did comtemplate to keep buttonhole threads to be the same, but...
Overall, I like this jacket, and it is reserved for dinner parties. Lucky me.

fabrics wrote: 12 other guys and I opted for that choice of contrasting buttonholes threads.

Critical mass for starting your own club
By the way, what just a few years back could be considered as a sign of capricious bespoke (contrasting stitches around the buttonholes), recently is a common feature of trendy RTW jackets more usually found in those in which the lining of the breast pocket can be pulled up and substitutes as a built-in pocket square.

If you eventually grow tired of the coloured buttonholes could always get them changed.