reasonably priced soft tailored suit

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

marburyvmadison
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:18 pm

I think I've made my point amply clear and so there's no need to skirt any issues, unless, of course, your law school tells you that you should ask the judges to state the rationale/ratio of their cases 20 times so that a law student sees the main point when it's staring him in the face. The comment about other tailors offering a better product than GB at around the same price range was in response to certain points you made, and an obiter remark if you will. It was not my main point.

Seeing how this thread has turned, it'd be wise for me to bow out gracefully, and wish you all the best.

For context --
marburyvmadison wrote:If we are talking solely about London, I do believe that there are better value tailors that are superior to GB. But I'll save that for another topic, with pictures. Some seasoned forum posters use (used) them already. Still, why constrain one's self to London?
bond_and_beyond wrote:
marburyvmadison wrote:
aston wrote:Marburyvmadison

I think you have already sullied another tailor's reputation.

If you know better, why not tell us?
For the fun of it -- if you can clearly articulate how my letting the so called 'secret' out of the bag will substantiate the point I've been making, I'll reveal the tailor.
That's easy: Your argument is that there are better value tailors out there at GB's price point. Prove it!

BB
marburyvmadison wrote:That wasn't my main argument? Where were you schooled in legal thinking again?
For context
marburyvmadison wrote:
BB, I think you neglected my point that I have two friends who have used GB, and the fit was quite terrible. I think talk is cheap so I shall try to organize a meeting and try and take pictures of their suits, weird as it may be. I don't think they went back to get the problems fixed.

Like has been said, nothing justifies GB letting that fella as well as the suits on two of my friends out of the door like that. I may have been influenced by the three terribly fitting suits by him that I've encountered. But that is, unfortunately, my account of it.

*For all purposes, I'd like to point that, in several posts that have been made, and even in Aston's comment, he did say that 'If you know what you want, and especially what you do not want, I think they do a pretty good job'. This speaks to the customer who has some rudimentary knowledge of how he wants his suit to fit, and not the uninitiated novice (like my two friends, and probably a couple other posters), who left everything to GB, were left with suits that fit terribly.

I just think that when it boils down to fundamental issues of fit, whether or not something is to be gained out of the extra work put in, and whether or not the inexperienced customer might be able to see the faults in it, the cutter/tailor should do it to his best. To be a tailor in the 'old' sense of the word.
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Last edited by marburyvmadison on Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:12 pm, edited 6 times in total.
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:21 pm

marburyvmadison wrote:I think I've made my point amply clear and so there's no need to skirt any issues, unless, of course, your law school tells you that you should ask the judges to state the rationale/ratio of their cases 20 times so that a law student sees the main point when it's staring him in the face. The comment about other tailors offering a better product than GB at around the same price range was in response to certain points you made, and an obiter remark if you will. It was not my main point.

Seeing how this thread has turned, it'd be wise for me to bow out gracefully, and wish you all the best.
So I take it that you cannot provide any names then...

As for your main point I think I have also commented directly on that a number of times, and in my view it all boils down to "value for money". It baffles me that you cannot see that.

BB
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:27 pm

marburyvmadison wrote:.
Why all the circle arguments? Why not just spill the beans?

BB
aston
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:31 pm

Marburyvmadison

I really am disappointed to know that, despite your apparent superior knowledge about were to get the best value for £1k, you cannot bring yourself to share it with your fellow posters.
old henry
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:51 pm

....................................................This is where we started. All Friends, Right ? You are good fellas.

[quote="old henry"][quote] The photo of the poor guy on the other forum is the sway back... and you are right.... There is no excuse for letting that suit get even one tenth to where it ended. It has, however, nothing to do with the customer knowing what he wants. Good fit and proper "cutting" regardless of "what the customer wants" is what you trust your tailor to know. Basic fundamentals.. Shame on them and good for you Marbury for saying it. Knowing "what one wants" is neither here nor there. A good fit is the tailors responsibility.It is why he gets up in the morning and why you the customer should go to bed at night, rest assured.. I would be more than happy to send them the sway back manipulation. There is no magic. Quite simple actually. It can be found in any old tailor book[/quote]

What do you mean by "Tell the cutter what you want" I am missing something. Do you mean to tell him that you want a slight drape or soft shoulder and chest or rope shoulders??? "Style Stuff" OR ..Do you mean that you go with him as he cuts your paper pattern and tell him " see, I have a sway back. See how I stand like an "S" and the front is short and the back is long and the back of the pant hits my calves and the seat gathers. And my arms are set way back ??? So, you tell him.. you have to open the coat front at the waist line about 3/4 inch like this and close the back like this and most likely drop the chest a bit and lower the sleeve notch so as to set the sleeves back.. and raise the pant front and flatten the seat so as to readjust the balance and lift the cloth off of the calves and let the front crease hang correctly. And lets perhaps do a muslin fitting to test the pattern before we cut because we will only have to test once for all of the many many years that I will be your customer.[/quote]
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:52 pm

aston wrote:Marburyvmadison

I really am disappointed to know that, despite your apparent superior knowledge about were to get the best value for £1k, you cannot bring yourself to share it with your fellow posters.
I am afraid he can't, though I truly wish he could :D That would at least be alot more helpful to his fellow loungers than re-editing posts that others have already responded to...

BB
aston
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:06 pm

I suppose that, if you make a claim about something, and then, when asked, cannot substantiate it, the chances are people will not give much credence to what you say in the future.
Rowly
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:39 pm

But what about value for money? If a GBP 1000 suit has a fit that is 95% of a SR suit for 30% of the price then certainly that is good value? (assuming that 95% consitutes a general good fit).
Before determining good value, you would need to compare the finish as well as the fit. And, if bangs for the buck is your criteria, you would have to consider the savings made with a high end Rtw, should you be lucky enough that a standard block is a good fit on you. If the human element is taken into account, you must realize that no two garments will turn out the same. However, if your tailor is sincerely trying to give you quality, you will see consistency over a number of garments, with a kind of seasonally adjusted expectation of quality , if you will. Although a one-off order could turn out to be lucky, many successful orders from both the customer and the tailor's viewpoint are from an ongoing relationship, which results in consistency as well as fit, finish and willingness to leave you happy.
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:46 pm

Rowly wrote:
But what about value for money? If a GBP 1000 suit has a fit that is 95% of a SR suit for 30% of the price then certainly that is good value? (assuming that 95% consitutes a general good fit).
Before determining good value, you would need to compare the finish as well as the fit. And, if bangs for the buck is your criteria, you would have to consider the savings made with a high end Rtw, should you be lucky enough that a standard block is a good fit on you. If the human element is taken into account, you must realize that no two garments will turn out the same. However, if your tailor is sincerely trying to give you quality, you will see consistency over a number of garments, with a kind of seasonally adjusted expectation of quality , if you will. Although a one-off order could turn out to be lucky, many successful orders from both the customer and the tailor's viewpoint are from an ongoing relationship, which results in consistency as well as fit, finish and willingness to leave you happy.
Indeed you are correct Rowly, and as noted by me and three others on this thread, we have had good experiences with GB over multiple suits.

I could adjust my argument above to also include finish, and I believe it would still hold. But perhaps only 90% of fit and finish of a SR suit. Still good value at 30% of price in my opinion :D

But if there are even better deals to be had I am the first to be willing to try!

BB
davidhuh
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:40 pm

Dear BB,

at the indicated price level, MTM is likely to be the best deal for many or most men.

Best regards, David
bond_and_beyond
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:45 pm

davidhuh wrote:Dear BB,

at the indicated price level, MTM is likely to be the best deal for many or most men.

Best regards, David
Compared to bespoke at the same price?

BB
davidhuh
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Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:05 pm

bond_and_beyond wrote:
Compared to bespoke at the same price?

BB
Dear BB,

if my budget would be limited at 1'000£, and while being in London, I would go for MTM to be honest. I don't want to comment on Graham Brown, as I have no experience with him. I understand he is using some short cuts in the process.

The OP was looking for reasonably priced soft tailoring. It might be reasonable talking to Mr DeBoise from Steed, who is also offering MTM. But I already suggested that :roll:

A second option would be to plan for less, but the real thing. Or simply use the LL saortoria :D

cheers, David
alden
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Mon Nov 19, 2012 8:54 am

But what about value for money? If a GBP 1000 suit has a fit that is 95% of a SR suit for 30% of the price then certainly that is good value? (assuming that 95% consitutes a general good fit).
BB

What is good value for money for you might be a complete waste for someone else. If you are an easy fit and a moderately talented and priced tailor can fit you well then you will be happy to keep and invest the 2000 pounds you saved. But a guy who has serious fit problems or wants the nec plus ultra in handwork etc will feel that the 1000 pounds spent are a total loss. Bespoke is very relative in this sense.

If you have a head cold or need triple bypass, you dont go to the same doctor.

Cheers
alden
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Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:06 am

old henry wrote:
I think we can all agree that "Charlatan Tailors" must eat too.

and the sullying of one particular tailor's reputation continues... *sigh*
BB,

I do not see any sullying going on here. Charlatan tailors do exist as do modestly talented tailors, experienced tailors, average tailors and brilliant tailors. I suppose you could say the same for any profession. And they all need to eat, and they do eat. I have had experience with each and every variety and have learned how to recognize and trust those who fit my particular needs. They may not fit the needs of anyone else.

There is no one saying that the tailor discussed here is a charlatan. He clearly has talents that suit many men's needs but maybe not the full arsenal to offer the highest standard. I do not know the man at all so it is not for me to say.

Cheers
alden
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Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:12 am

Image

This looks suspiciuosly like a man who stood one way during the fittings and is now standing in another way. He is standing at attention in the photo, but I suspect the suit was cut for his normal posture. That is really the only explanation I can come up with for a fit that is so far off the mark.

Cheers
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