Mr. Alden,alden wrote:I am glad you like this picture though it is not a "spalla camicia" but simply a very natural shoulder with an open seam.Given the suiting that I'm using, is the "spalla camicia" the only way to achieve that look? I'm absolutely in love with it. Notably absent is the "waterfall" effect in the drape from the sleevehead. Is this a byproduct of the suiting weave / weight / materials?
The "waterfall" effect is a term I coined and it has little to do with gushing folds of cloth or pleating in the descending of the sleeve from the shoulder. The picture above is a waterfall. The cloth falls evenly and harmoniously with the sole effect being that of gravity.
The cloth in question is a 20 ozs Reid & Taylor from the 60s. The picture is of the tailor who made the suit, Mr Loris Vestrucci of Florence.
I would say your approach is very good overall. You might want to look at some photos from the 60s in the way of the slim Conduit cut by Sinclair. It may give you some ideas.
Cheers
Thanks again for the quick reply! You cleared up my misunderstanding of the term waterfall. I now understand it to be indicative of the grace with which the fabric falls. The open seam also clarifies how that transition from shoulder to sleeve was achieved.
As to the suit, the 20oz cloth really does drape beautifully off the shoulder. Mr. Loris Vestrucci will be someone I'm eager to visit next time I find myself in Firezne, though I have a feeling that same trip to Italia will involve a visit to Sartoria as well...
Many thanks,
Alex